Need inspiration for Thanksgiving? Check out Episode 2 of SLM’s Arch Eats podcast, which is talking turkey, including how best to brine and cook turkeys. Special guest Cat Neville also opines on Missouri wines and suggests specific bottles for the holiday. Follow Arch Eats on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, Google Podcasts, or wherever podcasts are available.
The world of wine continues to evolve, with progressive winemaking techniques, unique grape varieties, and genre-bending wine styles. Thanksgiving often brings a range of dishes—and an opportunity to try new wine pairings. We asked local wine experts to share their favorite “must-try” classics for traditionalists, as well as some unique finds to wow wine-savvy friends at Friendsgiving. (Note: Prices may vary.)
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Unique: Fruited, Sparkling, and Whites
N/V Champagne Marguet “Shaman 19” Brut Nature Grand Cru Rosé / Champagne, France / Grapes: Chardonnay/Pinot Noir / $74.49
“Sparkling wines are excellent food wines, and Champagne is the pinnacle of sparkling wine. I am particularly fond of rosé Champagne to pair with Thanksgiving dinner. This wine is excellent with turkey. Benoit Marguet farms his vineyards with strict adherence to organic and biodynamic farming practices, and he is widely considered one of the most important natural wine producers in Champagne today.” —James Smallwood, 33 Wine Shop & Bar, Lafayette Square.
2021 Stolpman “Uni” / Ballard Canyon, California / Grapes: Roussanne/Chardonnay / $24.99
“Brimming with flavor, the ‘Uni Blanc’ is a perfect counterpart for the savory and flavorful Thanksgiving table, with great stone fruit notes, exotic spices, and exuberant personality.” —Mike Gray, Grapevine Wines, Kirkwood
2022 Von Winning / Pfalz, Germany / Grape: Grauer Burgunder (Pinot Gris) / $26
“One hundred percent pinot gris is fermented in stainless steel and aged in neutral barrels. Aromas of apricot, pear, and vanilla lead to a fresh and elegant finish marked by acidity and a just hint of creaminess.” —Chris Kolemainen, Clayton Winehouse, Clayton
2021 Rippon / Central Otago, New Zealand / Grape: Osteiner / $28.99
“This fun grape, a hybrid of Riesling & Sylvaner, makes a unique presence at the dinner table, especially when paired with mashed potatoes and gravy.” —Claire Augustine, The Wine Merchant, Olivette (recently moved from Clayton)
2021 Ashanta ‘Virga Morada’ / Sonoma, California / Fruit: 90% Gravenstein Apples, 5% Syrah, 5% Pinot Noir (apple & grape co-ferment) / $35
“Flavors of cherry and red currant pair well with a cheese plate or the whole meal. Its lighter ABV, at 9.2 percent, allows you to have some sips while preparing dinner.” —Kara Flaherty, beverage director at Take Root Hospitality, The Cellar Shop at Winslow’s Table, University City
Must-Try Classics: White Wines
2021 Goliath / Vouvray, Loire Valley, France / Grape: Chenin Blanc / $22.99
“I love Vouvray during the holidays. When you never know who’s going to pop in, it’s nice to have a versatile wine like the Goliath Selection Vouvray. It’s loaded with aromas and flavors of honeydew, peaches, and apricot. Although the wine is dry, the strong fruit and hint of residual sugar give a smooth and velvety mouth-feel that is sure to satisfy all of your guests.” —Brian Bauer, Olive Ovation, Ladue
2018 Fritz Windisch “Piesporter Goldtropfchen” / Mosel, Germany / Grape: Riesling Spatlese / $14.99
If ever there was a holiday for drinking Riesling, it’s Thanksgiving. It’s bright and cheery, with vibrant acidity and hints of honey pears and golden apples. The label may be a mouthful, but so is the wine—in a really good way. —Aaron Sherman, Grapevine Wines, Kirkwood
2018 Julien Schaal “Grand Cru Sommerberg” / Alsace, France / Grape: Riesling / $34.99
“For a less obvious choice, I think Julien Schaal’s 2018 Grand Cru Sommerberg dry riesling from Alsace is a wonderful pair with the many and varied flavors on the Thanksgiving table. This wine is clean and racy but still delivers mouth-filling flavors, showing off the warmth of the 2018 Vintage. Rated 95 out of 100 by Wine Enthusiast, this Grand Cru Riesling is a steal at $35. —Aaron Zwicker, The Wine and Cheese Place, Clayton
Unique: Red Wines
2018 Tikal “Patriota” / Mendoza, Argentina / Grapes: Malbec/Bonarda / $21.99
“A big blend of Bonarda and Malbec, this has the velvety texture of Pinot Noir with richer weight and lusher fruit. Blackberries and dark chocolate, yum!” Diana Gray, Grapevine Wines, Kirkwood
2022 Binzamanna “Rentiles” / Sardegna, Italy / Grape: Cannanou (Grenache) / $23.99
“Ripe notes of red fruit and baking spices fill the glass, and the luxurious texture fills the mouth with deliciousness.” —Mike Gray, Grapevine Wines, Kirkwood
2019 Jorche / Manduria, Puglia, Italy / Grape: Primitivo (Zinfandel) / $19.99
“Primitivo may seem a strange choice for Thanksgiving, but this wine is a staff favorite. With the intense aromas happening around the Thanksgiving table, I like to choose wines that can compete. Its beautiful ruby-red color teases the pronounced aromas of fresh red berries, Shiitake mushrooms, and baking spice. The palate has a medium-plus body and notes of red berry preserves, with just the right amount of tannin and a silky-smooth finish that will give you one more reason to be thankful.” —Brian Bauer, Olive Ovation, Ladue
Must-Try Classics – Red Wines
2022 Theodore Rex / Sonoma Coast, California / Grape: Pinot Noir / $29.99
“Pinot Noir is the quintessential Thanksgiving Red and for good reason: It’s the perfect complement for everything from turkey to mashed potatoes to cranberry sauce. The Theodore Rex Sonoma Coast is a very small-batch (with only five barrels produced) Pinot Noir from superstar winemaker Adam Lee, best known for creating lovely wine for Siduri. Here is how [Lee] himself describes Theodore Rex: ‘This wine is a prime example of an outstanding Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir. Demonstrating dried herb notes, along with a mix of bright red fruit flavors and some deeper, darker notes, it lingers on the palate with just enough crisp acidity to make you want another glass.’” —Jeff Brooks, Spirit Wine and Craft, South City
2020 Château de Corcelles / Brouilly, Beaujolais Cru, France / Grape: Gamay Vieilles Vignes (old vine) / $14.99
“Awesome old-vine (80-plus years) Beaujolais is aged in Châteauneuf du Pape barrels. It’s a classic pairing with autumnal favorites and perfect with stuffing.” —David Roach, The Wine Merchant, Olivette (recently moved from Clayton)
2021 Giant Steps / Yarra Valley, Australia / Grape: Pinot Noir / $45
“Fermented with mostly whole berries, this very bright Pinot displays loads of fresh raspberry and cranberry, plus a hint of orange with just the right amount of baking spice. It’s medium-bodied and quite refreshing as well.” —Chris Kolemainen, Clayton Winehouse, Clayton
2021 Lingua Franca “Avni” / Willamette Valley, Oregon / Grape: Pinot Noir / $37.99
“Pinot Noir is always a great pick for the Thanksgiving table, and this wine offers a wonderful example of Oregon’s Willamette Valley. While not new to the scene in Oregon, Lingua Franca is relatively new to St. Louis, and their wines really show off the elegance and intensity that has made Willamette Valley one of the world’s top spots for Pinot Noir. It’s rated 94 points by both Wine Spectator and Jeb Dunnuck.” —Aaron Zwicker, The Wine and Cheese Place, Clayton
2020 Le Grand Valmal “Vieilles Vignes” / Côtes-du-Rhône Villages, France / Grapes: Grenache/Syrah/Mourvèdre / $17.99
“Blends are notoriously food-friendly, and Thanksgiving fare is no exception. Raspberry and blueberry notes, alongside more herbal and spicy tones, make this wine a great match for darker turkey meat and stuffing. As an added bonus, this Rhône blend is an exceptional value at less than $20.” —Jeff Brooks, Spirit Wine and Craft, South City
Denise Mueller is a St. Louis–based Certified Sommelier and Certified Specialist of Wine. She owns the Mid-American School of Wine and the wine course PreSomm, with wine books and wine courses available at PreSomm.com.
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