Taqueria Durango
Menudo
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A purported hangover remedy, menudo is appealing because of the communal nature of its preparation. Chopping, peeling, and tending to the aromatic stock evokes memories of a family-filled kitchen. The result: a lavish russet stew of onions and garlic, hominy nubbins, and chewy honeycomb tripe. With onions, lime juice, and corn tortillas, it’s like being back on the rancho. This taqueria’s version is from Northern Mexico; it’s authentic and superb, even if you’re sober. 10238 Page, 314-429-1113.
Priyaa Indian Cuisine
Masala Dosa
Yes, masala dosa should be hanging over the plate’s edges. Crispy at the edges and soft in the middle, dosas are like incredible crepes. This Southern Indian fare has cubes of potato rolled inside, along with vegetables—all of it in a piquant, perfectly balanced masala curry. Alongside arrives sambar, a stew heady with coriander and fenugreek. The result is big, simple, and satisfying. 1910 McKelvey, 314-542-6148, priyaastlouis.com.
Nobu’s Japanese Restaurant
Kama Meshi
This is furusato ryori—Japanese “old home cooking”—at its very best. Rice absorbs a light chicken stock; the texture of the noodles combines with the other ingredients, including mushrooms and bamboo shoots. Think of it as a fragrant, steaming casserole—or something Mom cooked on a snowy Sunday. It’s filling, healthy, and full of delicate flavors. Sushi’s cool; kama meshi is happily warm. 8643 Olive, 314-997-2303, nobusushistl.com.
Trattoria Marcella
Tagliatelle alla Bolognese
There’s an Italian saying, “Cooking is love made visible.” It materializes on the plate here. Streamers of fat tagliatelle are swirled in a robust, unimprovable ragu of beef, tomatoes, and herbs, all of it topped with Parmesan snowflakes. The ragu sits stovetop until every delectable flavor is concentrated; the pasta spends not a second more than necessary cooking. This is a masterpiece of Italian folk fare that defines the cuisine of contentment in any casa. 3600 Watson, 314-352-7706, trattoriamarcella.com.
Dao Tien Bistro
Pho
The flavor of the stock comes from flame-roasted onions and slow-cooked beef bones. All the rest is secondary, though irresistible. Flank steak, meatballs, and ribbons of tendon are mixed in with basil, bean sprouts, onions, and cilantro. Long, tender noodles provide a perfect chewy bite. Dao Tien gets it. That’s why the pho here is so spectacular. In Vietnam, pho is breakfast. Here, it’s soup for the soul. 8600 Olive, 314-995-6960, daotienbistrostl.com.
Brasserie by Niche
Cassoulet
How do you fill a skillet with happiness? Brasserie does so with tender white beans, garlic-tinged sausage, hefty chunks of bacon, and a meltingly tender thigh of duck confit—all served in a broth like luxury made liquid and topped with baked butter-gold bread crumbs. Pair it with a glass of 2012 Domaine de La Réserve d’O Bilbo St. Saturnin. This dish appears at other St. Louis eateries, but none are as consistently spectacular as Brasserie’s. 4580 Laclede, 314-454-0600, brasseriebyniche.com.
