Review – KoKo

Who knew you had to go to a Creole-influenced Latin restaurant to get the best fried chicken in town?

By Dave Lowry

One does not expect the best—by far the best—fried chicken in St. Louis. Not at a place staking its reputation on “Pan-Latino” dining, as does KoKo. There are other surprises here, pleasant ones. If KoKo presented nothing but that fried chicken, though, it would be a success. The deep-fried breasts—two of them, big enough that one will be left for lunch the next day—arrive sizzling in a crunchy, herby, buttermilk-browned crust with just a hint of spiciness. Cut into one, and the juices glisten and flow. The snowy meat is perfectly tender, bursting with flavor. Along with a side of piquant corn salsa and a cloud of mashed potatoes and yucca, this is fried chicken as it ought to be.

Aside from that spectacular chicken, KoKo touts a menu of “Pan-Latino Meets Creole” fare, conjuring unsettling images of a Peruvian pipe flute band playing zydeco. Pairing cuisines works better than would the music, we believe—though the fare is actually more Central American-Caribbean. Dishes tend to be thoughtfully created, with a nice improvisational flair. There is little to be improved upon with a thick, properly grilled catfish fillet, for instance. KoKo manages, though, by ladling a huge dollop of crawfish étouffée over the grilled fish. The luxurious roux, studded with tiny sweet crawfish tails, makes for a spectacular sauce, an inspired combination, compromised only by the restaurant’s use of inferior rice to accompany the dish. A Cuban pot roast, braised in tomatoes, onions and red wine, is offered, full of the garlic and cumin that characterize that dish. From South Carolina’s low country comes a version of shrimp and grits with sweet peppers and garlic. From someplace where they like a ginger-and-rum glaze on their pork comes a chop marinated in cider and grilled and paired with a fruit chutney.

Both elements of the “Beef and Beef” were excellent. A fillet is dusted with cumin, grilled and topped with Cabrales cheese. (The latter’s a marbled, wonderfully pungent Spanish cheese.) Alone, the fillet rates high. So too a hefty helping of     ropa vieja, a meltingly tender rendition of beef braised so slowly in its own rich juices and spicy seasonings that it falls apart like “old clothes.” Both of these deserve their own place on a dish. The fillet atop the ropa vieja? Too much. We were hesitant about the salmon, which goes with Latin or Creole cuisine like Sean Penn goes with “rational thought.” But we live on the edge and jumped, and were happy for it. A big fillet of salmon is grilled with a citrus glaze that brings out all the flavor of the fish. It’s accompanied by a side of quinoa, a grain with a fluffy, chewy texture and a delightful nutty taste.

Beware: The green tomato catsup accompanying the “zydeco fries” appetizer has a delayed kick to it. The fries are white cheddar cheese grits, formed into Lincoln Logs and rolled in cornmeal before hitting the hot oil. (The serving is enormous, easily enough for two.) Another dip of Creole gravy is unremarkable; the fries take to that spicy catsup dip, though, deliciously. A Creole maque choux, misidentified as a torta, stops just short of being too fussy. A slather of roasted garlic–infused goat cheese and caramelized onions dress up discs of “mock shoes,” Creole versions of cornbread that are light and almost sweet. Along with four big shrimp and a tomatoey gazpacho salsa, arrayed on the plate, this is a worthy combination of taste and texture. Gumbo is a creditable appetizer here; the roux is dark and smoky, with shreds of duck meat and chopped, fiery andouille sausage. Nuggets of catfish, fried in a batter heady with beer and served with an aioli sauce, make for another rewarding starter. Cornbread arrives with every meal, along with a neon-bright butter flecked with red chilies.

Pizzas are plate-sized, with dressings like a roasted-garlic cream sauce or red mole, and toppings like andouille, tasso and chicken, shrimp and artichoke, or grilled chicken.

Asopao is a specialty here: a thick, Puerto Rican soup-stew of chicken, chorizo, vegetables like green peppers and chunks of corn on the cob and olives, spiked with saffron, served over rice. Another house favorite is a “seafood”    sancocho, a near-complete reinterpretation of this classic Colombian favorite. Sancocho is a stew invariably studded with half a dozen different meats. (Sancocho means “stewed,” an evocative description applied to one who’s been under a fiery sun all day.) Here, the protein comes from fish and seafood, cooked in a broth luxuriously rich with coconut milk. Both of these dishes entice; unfortunately, both come in portions meant for at least two. So you’ll need an equally adventurous companion if you want to sample them.

Flourless chocolate cakes, bread pudding with mango sauce and chocolate mousse were offered as desserts; one is perhaps better served in that course by an après-dinner trip to nearby Ted Drewes. The wine list isn’t extensive—many of the main courses go better with beer anyway—and several of those are available. If you want wine, try the ’05 Catena Malbec, a dependable Argentinean full of black fruits and enough tannins to stand up to the intense flavors on KoKo’s menu. An un-oaked Chardonnay, the ’06 Alta Vista, has the mineral acidity perfect for the salmon or other fish dishes.

Service is first-rate here, professional and efficient. The décor is hip and suave, though not aggressively so. The walls are a soothing tan, and the artwork is inoffensive. A stone tile floor and the building’s original pressed-tin ceiling are attractive but do not make for a monastically quiet ambience. A pair of thick curtains at the rear does little to dull the noise. The bar is in a separate room that also has space for more private dining, and there’s a small dining patio when it’s warm outside. KoKo—formerly the site of Café Ivanhoe—sits in a largely residential neighborhood in the southern part of the city. If you aren’t from those parts, it takes some navigating, but it’s worth it, just for the chicken. Felicitously, there is a lot more.

KoKo

Address: 3257 Ivanhoe

Phone: 314-647-3322

Website: kokostl.com

Average Main Course: $15

Reservations: Not a bad idea

Dress: Like those lovestruck couples announcing their engagement in a De Beers commercial

Bottom Line: Innovative approach to Central American/Creole dishes in a comfortable, stylish atmosphere