It’s official. Chef Ben Welch’s highly anticipated dual restaurants, Lucy Quinn and Little Lucy finally have opening dates.
Little Lucy, a modern diner-style eatery that operates seven days a week and stays open late, will open next Monday, March 24. Lucy Quinn, a full-service dinner restaurant specializing in “Southern-influenced casual cuisine,” will follow on Wednesday, March 26.
Both restaurants pay tribute to Welch’s grandmother, Lucille Quinn, celebrating her fun-loving, matriarchal spirit. They share a space at the former BEAST Butcher & Block, a split-concept venue located at 4156 Manchester in The Grove. Here’s what to know before you go.
Find the best food in St. Louis
Subscribe to the St. Louis Dining In and Dining Out newsletters to stay up-to-date on the local restaurant and culinary scene.
The Backstory
Six years ago, Welch began hosting pop-ups with Southern-inspired menus as a tribute to his grandmother, Lucille Quinn. Before that, he gained recognition for his Memphis-style, dry-rubbed barbecue at Big Baby Q, a small, no-frills spot that he co-owned with his father that Food & Wine magazine named the “Best BBQ” in Missouri.
Welch originally planned to turn Lucy Quinn into a brick-and-mortar restaurant, but he was sidetracked by other ventures, including The Midwestern Meat & Drink, Six Mile Bridge Beer, and Botanica in Wildwood, where he earned a James Beard Award nomination in 2022 for “Best Chef: Midwest.”
In developing the Lucy Quinn concept, Welch spent years visiting restaurants across Mississippi, Tennessee, Georgia, Arkansas, and North Carolina. “It was more of a mental exercise than a search for new dishes,” he says. “I wanted to understand why certain places are on everyone’s bucket list, why serving a particular type of cuisine is enough to get nominated for or win a Beard award year after year.”
Asked if either restaurant is a model for expansion, Welch is clear: “Lucy Quinn is personal. It’s a love letter to my nana and my family. I’ve missed every anniversary, birthday, and holiday over the past 30 years, so this is both an apology and proof of what that sacrifice has built.” He sees Little Lucy as the more likely concept to expand. “I love Kansas City, Milwaukee, and D.C.,” he says. “With high prices everywhere and the current state of the industry, I think diners will be hot for years.”
He is also proud to have been the first Black chef in the area nominated for a James Beard Award and would love to return to the James Beard Awards, but his aspirations run deeper. “I want to invest in charitable causes—STEM, kids’ programs, and women’s organizations,” he says. “I’m a chef, sure, but as I get older, I want the people who work for me to be better for it. I want there to be a legacy.”
The Menu
“The space is history in the making,” says Welch. “When you think of Black-owned restaurants in St. Louis, you don’t typically picture a full-service establishment like this. As for the food, I’m not trying to reinvent the wheel—just make a better one. I’ve been developing these recipes throughout my entire career.”
Asked to describe his cuisine, Welch calls it “upscale casual Southern small plates” served in a full-service format for a come-as-you-are clientele. “This is The Grove,” he says, “and The Grove is casual.”
Each restaurant features a unique menu. “We’ve been delayed so long that I’ve had the chance to refine both menus repeatedly,” he says, “and now they’re exactly where we want them to be.” The Lucy Quinn menu is divided into “smaller” and “bigger” plates, plus dessert. Each menu item has a story or an explanation behind it. Here are some of the highlights.
Lucy Quinn
DINNER
Full-service dinner Wednesday through Sunday evenings with reservations available through Resy.
Smaller Plates
- Fried Alabama Catfish: Inspired by a childhood favorite of fried fish and spaghetti, Welch’s version features crispy catfish paired with house-made noodles. “I did my cheffy thing to it and added puttanesca sauce. Made with anchovies and capers, it’s got a big flavor profile. I’m a big flavor guy.”
- BBQ Shrimp: A nod to Welch’s time with Emeril Lagasse at NOLA, this dish features head-on shrimp in a bisque-like sauce made by roasting tomato paste, sautéing shrimp shells, and finishing with cream. “I Vitamix that, then strain it through a chinois, then reduce the liquid. It’s like a cross between Emeril’s Worcestershire-based sauce and a flavorful bisque.”
- Southern Fried Tripe: A childhood favorite, the tripe is served differently at each location. At Little Lucy, it’s a chicken-fried tripe sandwich; at Lucy Quinn, it’s cut into strips and served like a lettuce wrap.
- Benton’s Country Ham: Welch treats it like ‘American prosciutto,’ cutting it wafer thin, then layering the slices with apple butter, and adding Parmesan and toasted bread crumbs. “I look at it like a fancied up ham and cheese.”
- Crab Cake: Made with lump blue crab and minimal filler, sautéed, then baked to minimize handling, and served with a preserved lemon remoulade. “They’re cliché, but they’ll sell like crazy.”
- LQ Fries: Triple-cooked potato wedges are served with roasted garlic mayo. “Just to be different.”
- Benne Seed/Duck Fat Milk Bread: The unique bread service features a soft tangzhong-based roll enriched with duck fat, topped with benne seeds (the African term for sesame). It’s served with pimento cheese and sorghum butter. (Benne is also the name of Welch’s hospitality group, and Bennie is the proper spelling of his given name.)
- Smoked Pork & Chicken Gumbo: Crowd-sourced via Facebook, the winner was chicken and pork, which leaves Welch a lot of leeway. This gumbo uses Cahokia rice, a local high-protein white rice, for extra flavor.
- Caesar Salad: The same one Welch has been doing for years, featuring breadcrumbs infused with pureed anchovies for an extra layer of umami.
- Roasted Cabbage: Served with green tahini sauce, collards, dukkah (a spiced nut blend), and berbere (a North African spice mix).
- Gnocchi: Potato gnocchi in a rich four-cheese mornay sauce. “Basically, my cheffy take on mac and cheese.”
- Double Cheeseburger: Two 3-ounce aged beef patties, flat-grilled and topped with tomato jam and pimento cheese. “If I’m a regular somewhere, I’m eventually going to want a good burger, so this is it.”
Bigger Plates
- Half-Roasted Chicken: “We serve ours with a scoop of spoonbread, similar to a cornbread souffle, along with candied pecans, and jus.”
- Big Baby Q Pastrami: “My Big Baby Q fans expect some smoked items, and I oblige by offering the same thick-cut pastrami that they’ll remember. People keep telling me, ‘If you serve your brisket and pastrami, I’ll be there.’”
- Crispy Pork Belly: Served with collard greens, smoked ham hock, and hot water cornbread—Southern flavors Welch grew up with, except for the crispy pork belly. “No one knew how to do that then.”
BRUNCH
Served Saturday and Sunday from 10 a.m.–2 p.m.
- Smoked Brisket: Big Baby Q’s hand-carved brisket, served with soft scrambled eggs, and sourdough
- Ratatouille “Shakshuka”: A take on the classic, where part of the ratatouille is pureed into a sauce to poach the eggs. Served with sourdough toast.
- Fried Green Tomatoes: “A Southern staple, enough said. Ours comes with candied jalapeno remoulade, lime, and tomato jam.”
- Shrimp Cocktail: “A classic version using 16-20 count shrimp, which is substantial without being ostentatious and pricey.”
- Crab Beignets: A signature dish from Botanica, featuring crabmeat folded into pâte à choux dough, fried until pillowy.
- Smoked Catfish Hashbrown: “The year I was nominated for the James Beard Award, the guy who won, Dane Baldwin, worked at The Diplomat in Milwaukee and served a salt cod hash brown. This is my version.”
- Fried Oysters Rockefeller: “Fried oysters are served atop pain perdu French toast with a creamed collards Rockefeller sauce.”
- Fried Chicken: Two pieces of dark meat with Texas toast and hot sauce, honoring the tradition of weekend-only fried chicken in the plantation South. “In those days, fried chicken was a celebratory dish, reserved for special occasions and weekends.”
- Thick-Cut Candied Peppered Bacon: “So thick, I call it ‘steak bacon.’”
DESSERT
- German Chocolate Cheesecake: Inspired by Welch’s grandmother’s birthday cake tradition. “I thought it was a secret family recipe, but after she died without me learning the recipe, I found out she just followed the one on the German chocolate bar’s label. The cake we serve is a version of that recipe.”
- Dulce De Leche Bean Pie: This nostalgic dessert found in some St. Louis’ neighborhoods, where Muslim vendors sold individual pies made with navy beans with spicing similar to a sweet potato or pumpkin pie. Welch’s version is a full-size pie served in slices. “The name will be familiar to St. Louisans who grew up in urban areas. Our version is a regular-sized pie served in wedges.”
- Nana’s Banana Pudding: This was an item Welch couldn’t keep up with at Big Baby Q, a recipe made better by caramelizing the bananas. “In nana Lucy’s eyes, I could do no wrong,” Welch reminisces. “I was her oldest grandbaby, born on her birthday, so she spoiled me. She bought me all my big gifts, like my first computer. We had a special bond. I named this dessert after her, but truth be told, Nana didn’t cook.”
Little Lucy
Open daily from 11 a.m.–1:30 a.m., Little Lucy serves the same menu all day. No reservations accepted.
SANDWICHES
- Vegan Cheddar Burger: This massive plant-based burger is made with brown rice, beets, roasted mushrooms, and garbanzo beans, topped with vegan cheese, shredded lettuce, and house-made 1000 Island dressing. “It’s gonna take over—it’s gonna be huge, because it is huge. It’s like a vegan Big Mac.”
- Nashville Hot Catfish Po’ Boy: “There’s a lot of Nashville hot chicken around. How about some hot catfish?”
- Fried Green Tomato Grilled Cheese: “Adding tomatoes to a grilled cheese sandwich is great. This is better.”
- Fried Chicken Thigh Sandwich: Brined, fried, and served with coleslaw and house-made dill pickles, this sandwich is another carryover from Big Baby Q.
- Southern Fried Tripe Sandwich: “A chicken fried tripe sandwich, served the way I grew up eating it, with onions, pickles, and spicy mustard on Texas toast. I added the hot sauce mayo.”
- Fried Bologna Sandwich: Smoked bologna, thick-cut and pan-seared, served with American cheese, mayo, mustard, and Red Hot Riplets on brioche. “As St. Louis as it gets.”
NOT SANDWICHES:
- Toasted Ravioli: These beef ravioli are breaded and fried, then tossed in a Cajun marinara cream sauce with shaved Parmesan on top. “As un-St. Louis as it gets.”
- Crispy Smoked Turkey Leg: “A large tom turkey leg is barbecue-spiced, smoked, and served with Alabama white sauce.”
- Collards and Artichoke Dip: A Southern-style spin on the traditional spinach dip. “We serve it with heavily spiced and baked saltines, a.k.a. ‘Alabama crackers.’’
- Little (Lucy) Gem Salad: “Ours includes apples and zucchini, green goddess dressing, and breadcrumbs”
- BBQ Sparerib – Smoked pork ribs, deboned and sauced. “A McRib the way it oughta be.”
DESSERTS
- Classic Beignets: Classic New Orleans-style beignets are rolled in cinnamon-laced powdered sugar.
- Lemon Icebox Pie: “A simple and delicious no-bake lemon pie, made using frozen lemonade concentrate and whipped cream.”
DRINKS
The Drinks
The drink menu focuses on Southern- and New Orleans-inspired cocktails, with an emphasis on domestic beers and wines, as well as a growing selection of zero-proof drinks. For now, both restaurants share the same drink menu, but as each develops its own identity, the selections will evolve.
Two seasoned beverage pros, Randy Boyce and Ray Edwards, collaborated on developing the beverage program. Boyce, the former beverage director and manager at The Blue Duck, now serves as general manager of the Lucy Quinn complex. Edwards is from New Orleans and worked for Emeril Lagasse at the same time as Welch.
“When we ran into each other back in St. Louis, we had a ‘one of these days, we’ll do something’ discussion, and here we are,” he says. “This restaurant is a love letter to Ben’s nana, but the common denominator is that the management team all comes from matriarchal families. This is Ben’s culinary journey on a plate and my bartender journey in a glass. Ben and I joke that his nana and my mom are sitting together up in heaven, drinking porch coolers, watching this whole thing unfold.”
Edwards has an extensive resume in the St. Louis bar scene, including a decade with Gamlin Restaurant Group, running the beverage program at the Cheshire properties for the LHM Group, and helping reopen The Tenderloin Room. While at The Gin Room, he helped Michael Fricker open Grand Spirits and New Society. “I’ve been everywhere,” he jokes, “I’m like a cocktail rōnin.”
Abby Gray, who ran Idol Wolf at the 21c Hotel, joins Edwards in running the beverage program. In fact, women make up almost all of Edwards’ team, with “a lot of them up-and-comers,” he says. “Imagine Meredith Barry as a 21-year-old. Lucy Quinn has a handful of rock stars like that.”
Welch insists on 13-minute kitchen-to-table service. (“I’m not a fine dining, tweezer chef,” Welch says, “I do good food, fast.”) So the bar team must execute drinks with speed as well. Edwards and his team are working to batch certain cocktails from their existing multi-step menu while still maintaining the craft of shaking, stirring, and garnishing.
The Atmosphere
After six years of hosting pop-ups and searching more than two dozen locations, Welch found the former BEAST Butcher & Block space ideal for its size, layout, and turnkey potential. “I love The Grove—I lived in The Grove and tried to open restaurants here multiple times,” Welch says. “When I saw this space, I knew it had to be two different concepts, and it evolved from there.” Min+ Architecture assisted with the layout and design of both concepts.
Lucy Quinn
Lucy Quinn occupies two-thirds of the 6,000-square-foot space, seating 100 guests. Welch says the tables and chairs were inherited from BEAST, and he and his team “designed the restaurant with those as the starting point.” To improve acoustics, Welch installed foam padding under every chair and added a long, upholstered banquette along the main wall. BEAST’s original mural was covered with acoustic panels and works of art collected by Welch over the years.
On another wall is a swath of predominantly green wallpaper custom made for the space. “The owner of Grown Agency, a local marketing company, reached out and talked to me about my background and the inspiration for the concept,” Welch says, “then incorporated all that into a wallpaper that loosely tells my story.”
Local and regional art are integral to the restaurant’s ambiance. Welch’s brother, who holds a master’s degree in art, created a stencil portrait of Lucille Quinn as a focal point. Other featured artists include Brock Seals (who designed custom cleats for Chiefs player Tershawn Wharton for 2025 Super Bowl); renowned St. Louis artist Cbabi Bayoc; and Peat Wollaeger, who collaborated on one of two hanging skateboards. The other was painted by renowned artist Kehinde Wiley, whose presidential portrait of Barack Obama at the Smithsonian National Portrait Gallery was the first by an African-American artist. A painting of a young Bennie Welch, created by a server at the former Blue Water Grill, also hangs in the space.
A standout piece, Shouts of Freedom by Lucrecia Oks, is prominently displayed in the bar area. “In the middle of [the pandemic], I sent money, Western Union, to the artist in Argentina,” Welch recalls, “hoping and praying that the piece would show up, and it did.”
Little Lucy
Hidden behind a curtain covering a nearly building-length glass wall is Little Lucy, the 60-seat, diner-style eatery. Formerly BEAST’s private event space, this section now features a bar, high-top tables, green upholstered booths with matching warehouse lights, and a counter with pink swivel stools overlooking the kitchen.
While the aesthetic leans into classic diner elements, Little Lucy offers Welch’s modern take on Southern cuisine. “It has that bright-pink diner look, but we’re not doing traditional diner fare,” Welch says. “Fine dining chefs are increasingly embracing quick-service models, even upscale ones, and I think diners are a great platform for that. People expect diners to have lower price points, and while we won’t have a super cheap Blue Plate Special, it is reasonably priced for the quality and attention to detail.”
Welch fans will notice familiar elements from his former restaurant, Big Baby Q, including its clock and original signage. More local artwork decorates Little Lucy, alongside pieces from renowned Chicago-based contemporary artist Hebru Brantley. Overall, Welch estimates that 85 percent of the displayed artwork is local, with 90 percent created by artists of color.
Lucy Quinn and Little Lucy operate as separate businesses, each with its own LLC, inventory, and payroll. “If you roll both of them together, you never know how they’re doing separately,” Welch says. “It’s a pain to do it this way, but at least we’ll know exactly how each one is performing.”
With final touches such as plants and love seats soon to be added, Welch jokes that the only things missing are “people’s smiling faces and the silent sounds of credit card sales.”
Lucy Quinn and Little Lucy: Lucy Quinn offers full-service dinner Wed-Thu from 5 p.m. to 8:30 p.m.; Fri-Sun from 5 p.m. to 9:30 p.m.; and brunch, Sat- Sun from 10 a.m.–1;30 p.m. Reservations available through Resy. Little Lucy is open daily on a walk-in basis from 11 a.m. to 1:30 a.m. , serving the same menu all day. 4156 Manchester in the Grove.
