Kevin A. Roberts
The Lucky Accomplice
Logan Ely just can’t help himself. When the acclaimed chef opened his sophomore restaurant, he aimed for a casual, more approachable alternative to his wildly successful tasting-menu-focused eatery, Shift. The moment you take that first sip of a black lime rum slushy and tuck into a corned pork collar, however, you understand that Ely can’t give us anything other than a thrilling culinary experience. The level of food, beverage, and hospitality at The Lucky Accomplice matches that of Shift—or any high-end restaurant, for that matter. But the fact that you can enjoy it all sans reservations—and while wearing jeans and a T-shirt—gives an element of comfort that’s rare for such a memorable dining experience. 2501 S. Jefferson.
Kevin A. Roberts
Bolyard’s Meat & Provisions
During the pandemic, the city’s first and only whole-animal butcher shop outgrew its confines. As luck would have it, a restaurant space across the street (the former Dubliner location) was vacant, had room for 40 seats, and was large enough for more meat production and cases filled with ancillaries, such as fresh soup stocks and beer mustard. In the past, Bolyard’s had difficulty finding an outlet for excess product; now, charcuterie platters and pork rinds are everyday menu items, fries are cooked in beef tallow, and low-calorie bone broths are available in house or to go. Bolyard’s sandwiches used to be relatively unknown, but today such items as the Pig Pen and the Feisty Bull are staples of the restaurant’s lunch menu. 2733 Sutton.
Kevin A. Roberts
Diego’s Cantina
After building a loyal following at Frida’s (named for artist Frida Kahlo) in University City, owners Natasha Kwan and Rick Roloff opened this “husband restaurant” (yes, named for Diego Rivera) next door. Fortunately, the restaurant doesn’t charge by the pound for the nachos, which are loaded with toppings and served on a sheet pan. It comes with chips and cheese, tomatoes, olives, radishes, and cilantro—enough to challenge a whole right-field box’s worth at Busch. Try the Costra tacos, served in a grilled cheese shell, as well as queso with chiles that’s set on fire. Espolòn tequila drinks don’t hurt either. The atmosphere is bedecked with a vibrant color palette, Mexican masks, and Day of the Dead–themed tile; it’s a splendid place for sipping margaritas or tucking into specialties that bring a whole new take on Mexican cuisine. 630 North and South.
Kevin A. Roberts
Tai Ke Shabu Shabu
Taiwan’s take on hot pot—so good, it’s worth saying twice—shabu shabu calls for unhurried dining enjoyment. Gather around bubbling broth pots, and swish everything from lamb to enoki mushrooms in distinctive sauces. Some items might be unfamiliar (dried tofu, tong hao greens, and fish balls), but it’s fun to experiment. Although there are individual seats at a big bar, it’s more entertaining to share a table and ingredients with family or friends while slowly working your way through the menu. Afterward, grab dessert at Share Sweet next door. 9626 Olive.
Kevin A. Roberts
Asador Del Sur
Maria Giamportone is from Ecuador; her husband, Daniel Gonzalez, is from Uruguay. The couple met in New Jersey and were living in Miami when St. Louis relatives convinced them that the Midwest city needed a South American grill. Giamportone’s culinary specialty is seafood; Gonzalez’s is charcoal-grilled meat. Her lobster bisque is the best he’s ever had; she says the same about her husband’s skirt steak. After discovering the charms of Maplewood, the couple launched Asador Del Sur last year. “Everyone here is so nice,” Giamportone says. “It’s much different than in Miami, New York, and New Jersey. I’m, like, ‘OK, when are you going to become a monster?’ And they never do.” 7322 Manchester.
Makeovers, Moves, and Expansions
EVEN DURING THE PANDEMIC, IT’S BEEN A BUSY TIME FOR SOME ST. LOUIS MAINSTAYS.
MAKEOVERS
Michael and Tara Gallina of Vicia fame took the changes brought on by the pandemic and ran with them at Winslow’s Table, turning their University City spot into a lovely market, booze shop, and bakery. At the former Olive + Oak space in Webster Groves, chef Mike Risk expanded his talent for Italian cuisine with O+O Pizza, conveniently located next door to The Clover & The Bee. And in Midtown, St. Louis’ oldest family-owned restaurant, Beffa’s, got a new lease on life after a hiatus, thanks to fourth-generation owner Paul Beffa.
MOVES
Perhaps the most high-profile move of the past year—or the past 10 years—was the storied Tony’s moving from its longtime downtown location to Clayton. Another fine-dining spot, Ruth’s Chris, shuttered its Clayton location and reopened in a massive, jaw-dropping location in Chesterfield. A new classic, Olive + Oak, moved down the street in Webster Groves to bigger digs (alongside Perennial on Lockwood) and brought along the magic that makes it one of the area’s most thrilling restaurants. In the Central West End, Kingside Diner also moved just a few doors down to take advantage of perhaps the city’s best corner with a sprawling patio and new evening offerings. At West End Bistro, Kevin and Marion Green bring their country-club sensibilities and upscale-bistro cuisine to a historic DeBaliviere Place storefront, solidifying their reputation as the neighborhood’s gathering spot. Open Concept, St. Louis’ groundbreaking flat-rate, unlimited-cocktail bar, has a new space in the Grove but the same goal: revolutionizing the bar industry. And what started as a move became a makeover after a fire destroyed part of Brennan’s on its initial opening day. The quintessential Central West End watering hole bounced back, though, opening in its handsome new location this summer.
EXPANSIONS
St. Charles County has seen a surge of restaurant expansions. While there are no lengths that folks won’t travel to get a taste of the glorious ribs from Pappy’s, the iconic smokehouse reduced the drive for some fans with its new St. Peters smokehouse. At the Streets of St. Charles, Napoli III provides a new place to enjoy elegant Italian dining. Calling the outdoor space a mere patio at the Corner Pub & Grill in O’Fallon fails to fully capture the mind-blowing oasis and rec area that OG Hospitality Group has created for its latest outpost.
In St. Louis County, Pi-Rico serves up pizza, tacos, burgers, and margaritas out of a drive-through on a busy Glendale corner. Nearby Mission Taco Joint’s sprawling new Kirkwood location is part restaurant, part tortilla factory, and part arcade. With a second DD Mau location now open in Webster Groves, Julie Truong is well on her way to realizing her dream of making Vietnamese food the next big thing in fast-casual dining. Munsok So brings Korean fried chicken to University City with Kimchi Guys. And Beets & Bones—a spinoff of a pop-up brand that started inside Upshot Coffee—is expanding to the former Northwest Coffee space in Clayton.
And in the city proper, the menu of options continues to grow. Popular Tunisian Mexican brunch restaurant Egg opened a second location in Midtown. Dave and Meggan Sandusky have expanded their repertoire from barbecue to Southern comfort food with BEAST Southern Kitchen & BBQ. Likewise, with its fifth location, inside Ballpark Village, Salt + Smoke continues to make a name for itself on the barbecue scene. And with its second location, in downtown St. Louis, UKRAFT co-owners and brothers Matt and Mike Ratz have built on the success of their popular, healthful food truck.
Sports Bars
Guests at Sports & Social St. Louis in Ballpark Village can play games or hang out on the terrace. At another end of the metro area, a hockey legend gets back in the (restaurant) game at Wentzville’s sprawling Brett Hull’s Junction House.
Kevin A. Roberts
Casa Don Alfonso
Elegantly situated in The Ritz-Carlton, St. Louis, the lone stateside descendant of Italy’s Michelin-starred Don Alfonso 1890 boasts the largest open-concept kitchen in the metro area. A village worth of hand-painted artisan tile and a massive copper canopy surround four cooking islands and a chef’s counter, anchored by a pizza oven that turns out real-deal Neapolitan pies. The dining room is a study in gracious curves, with round booths, oval tables, curve-matching seats, and broad archways that terminate at the U-shaped marble-topped Casa Bar. Wisteria (prominent at the flagship) is abstractly represented in the bespoke paintings, the 600 individually hung crystal leaves, and the lavender spun sugar flower used to garnish the house cocktail. It’s no wonder Forbes claimed “America’s Best New Italian Restaurant Is in St Louis.” 100 Carondelet Plaza.
Kevin A. Roberts
Edera Italian Eatery
Long before it opened its doors, Edera (the successor to Scape in the Central West End) had a big advantage: Mike Randolph, owner of a handful of the city’s most notable restaurants, was the consulting chef. Randolph’s salumi-, fungi-, and prosciutto-topped pizzas dazzle with such pastas as baked gnocchi and pappardelle Bolognese. In a circular twist, former Scape executive chef Andrew Simon has come back on board, upping the ante with some unusual takes on pizza and entrées, such as orecchiette with picked kale, pecorino cream, pancetta, and Calabrian chile. Edera means “ivy” in Italian—a nod to the 30-foot wall south of Edera’s spectacular courtyard patio that’s shrouded in it. 48 Maryland Plaza.
Kevin A. Roberts
Songbird
When Kounter Kulture’s owners opened a new space in The Grove last winter, they stayed true to the philosophy that garnered so much success for their first restaurant. Songbird offers only a handful of comfort food–inspired breakfast items, but each dish combines big, rich flavors coaxed from local ingredients and cooked with care. The wildly popular combo breakfast sandwich, for instance, features local applewood bacon, aged cheddar, and a fried farm egg, finished with sea salt and honey. The Spanish tortilla combines fresh eggs with potatoes, a red pepper romesco, and aged Gouda. The dishes are even better enjoyed with Songbird’s coffee drinks, developed in partnership with Sump. 4476 Chouteau.
Kevin A. Roberts
Tempus
One of the city’s most talented chefs was still in the culinary shadows until recently. Having spent the majority of his career in private clubs, Ben Grupe earned a spot on the ACF Culinary Team (informally known as the U.S. Culinary Olympic Team) and eventually became its captain; in 2016, the team scored fourth overall out of 30-plus teams. He also competed in the Team USA Ment’or BKB selection for the Bocuse d’Or, the most prestigious culinary competition in the world. When Grupe decided to roll out Tempus, his inaugural restaurant—in the middle of a pandemic, no less—it created a citywide stir, especially because it opened without the vibe of its slick interior. Undeterred, Grupe’s team assembled artistic presentations in carryout containers. After a full year of take-out-only service, Tempus’ dining room is slated to open in October. And not to throw shade on his cardboard-boxed creations, but the culinary Olympian’s brined, mustard-encrusted heritage breed chicken breast with grilled and raw lettuce, carrots, and pain perdu is a wee bit more memorable when plated on geometric-shaped china. 4370 Manchester.
Kevin A. Roberts
Chiang Mai
Chef Su Hill’s restaurant in Webster Groves pays homage not only to the city of Chiang Mai and the cuisine and dishes of northern Thailand, but also to her mother and grandmother. Both women were esteemed chefs who cooked in the kitchens of the royal household of the Kingdom of Siam. Hill grew up a child of the royal household, learning at the sides of both women how to highlight and layer multiple flavors, fragrance, and ingredients. At Chiang Mai, utilizing the regional cooking techniques she mastered in Thailand, Hill creates and serves nuanced and dynamic traditional dishes, such as the deeply savory khao munn gai (chicken with infused rice) and sakoo sai moo (tapioca and pork dumplings). 8158 Big Bend.
Ones to Watch
NEW AND COMING ADDITIONS TO THE DINING SCENE
By the time you read this, you’ll likely have heard about the opening of Bowood by Niche, which just might be as charming as its successor, Café Osage. Rockwell Beer Garden in Francis Park will feature tavern-style pizzas and walkaround fare from acclaimed Niche alum Michael Petres. Farther west, there’s Wild Crush Wine Bar(n), which boasts a sweeping patio, park, and walking path out its back door. And next door is Cleaver & Cocktail, the latest endeavor from the owners of The Block and 58hundred, which will début later this year.
Big-Deal Debuts
Missouri’s first food truck park, 9 Mile Garden, opened to rave reviews last summer, while the kitchens at recently opened Food Hall at City Foundry STL (see p. 40) have been compared to “food trucks without wheels.”
Kevin A. Roberts
DISH: Along historic Main Street in St. Charles, executive chef/co-owner Jo Otey serves upscale comfort food, including such small plates as chicken Florentine flatbread, as well as truffle chips, which seem to possess magical powers. DRINK: While the cocktails are fun and creative, spend some time examining the well-selected list of whiskies. Ask the expert staff for suggestions. TIP: The space is also home to Burger Underground, a ghost kitchen offering burgers (natch), wings, and fries. Another ghost kitchen is also in the works: Why So Cereal, the state’s first cereal café. 201 N. Main, St. Charles.
Kevin A. Roberts
DISH: Rancher Steve St. Pierre brings a little bit of the country to the Gate District with this rural-inspired, café-meets-urban-supply-store. St. Pierre’s cattle farm sources all of the café’s beef, so a burger is apropos. Before you leave, a giant cinnamon roll is practically mandatory. DRINK: Flavored teas, such as the Lemon Berry Blush (tinged with strawberries and lemongrass), are offbeat but refreshing. In the winter, go with the steamed milk café au lait. TIP: The selection of weathervanes, bird feeders, and country gizmos in the urban farm store are a must-experience diversion. 2742 Lafayette.
DISH: Chef Philip Day’s rustic farm-to-table restaurant, situated in a century-old Augusta residence, offers a prix fixe menu that usually includes a hot smoked trout served with its own, delicious roe. DRINK: It’s only appropriate to sip a glass of locally grown wine while in the heart of Missouri’s wine country. Go for the multicourse pairing option. TIP: The patio affords some of the most scenic vistas in the region. It’s a perfect dining destination for an autumn drive. 5525 Walnut, Augusta.
DISH: From the owners of Twisted Tree Steakhouse (not to mention Helen Fitzgerald’s and Syberg’s), this Arnold offshoot offers a more casual experience but with a touch of panache. Case in point: The Arnold, a triple smash burger with melted Swiss cheese, aioli, and lobster (no, we’re not kidding). Add an order of the Twisted Fries, a pile of pommes frites buried under cheddar cheese, bacon, and aioli. DRINK: Try a Twisted Shake—such as the Boozy Baileys or Mocha Me Happy—made with the restaurant’s own homemade ice cream. TIP: On Saturdays from 10 a.m.–2 p.m., Twisted Tavern offers a chef’s choice platter of eggs, proteins, and other provisions. After negotiating the mammoth Breakfast Board, you’ll be set until dinner. 3606 W. Outer Road, Arnold.
DISH: If you’re relatively new to Korean food, the Beef Bulgogi Bop is a great way to get familiar with some of its foundational flavors. Then take it up a notch with the Spicy Chicken Bop. DRINK: Try the sweet cinnamon punch (sujeonggwa in Korean). K-Bop stocks a canned version of the traditional spiced drink, which is often served as a dessert and consumed at holiday celebrations. TIP: K-Bop’s Delmar location offers a larger menu than its food truck, with a few noodle dishes and other treats such as tteok-bokki, a classic street-food snack of cylindrical rice cakes slathered in a spicy sauce grounded in gochujang and gochugaru. 6120 Delmar.
Fajitas & ’Ritas
Everybody’s favorite Mexican one-two punch—fajitas and margaritas—is well-represented at Uncle Julio’s in Frontenac and La Catrina in Southampton, the latter of which boasts outside decks on two levels.
DISH: This eclectic St. Ann restaurant is the realization of a dream for longtime chef Jason Lamont to serve a little bit of something for everyone. For instance, you’ve heard of loaded fries, but you haven’t seen anything like the Lobster Tail on My Spuds, a pile of french fries topped with Grand Marnier cheese sauce, beef bacon, shallots, chives, and a whole lobster tail. DRINK: The restaurant might not serve booze in the traditional sense, but you’ll want to do shots of the Hennessy cream sauce that comes with the stuffed salmon or the White Russian wing glaze. TIP: Love at First Bite might dazzle with its over-the-top concoctions, but the restaurant shines brightest with its simple smoked meats, especially the brisket. 10479 St. Charles Rock.
DISH: Situated in the former Southtown Pub space, in the footprint of the newly minted Crown District, The Golden Hoosier is an homage to the South Side, with such dishes as a 1-pound pork steak, tandoori wings, and the must-try Superman Potato (smothered in charred peppers, onions, sour cream, and cheddar cheese fondue). DRINK: One of the most exciting drinks in the city’s budding spiritless cocktail scene, the Piper’s Palmer scratches the gin itch with layers of complex flavor. TIP: The interior design is breathtaking, but don’t let it keep you from checking out the wonderful patio, fashioned to look like a vintage state park campground. 3707 S. Kingshighway.
DISH: After past incarnations as Ryder’s Tavern and the Bleeding Deacon, the South St. Louis space at 4123 Chippewa went back to The Drawing Board—literally. Patrons can scribble on two chalkboards, which recently featured two dinosaurs fighting over a smash burger (the pub’s specialty). And consider the jambalaya balls, seasonal house pickles, and falafel sliders from chef Alexa Camp. DRINK: Bartender Ryan Pierre’s PPP Loan, a hip Paloma with a splash of Passion Fruit Prussia and Berliner weisse from 4 Hands. On Wednesdays and Sundays, sip Pierre’s bartender’s choice. “It’s like playing jazz,” he says. TIP: The pub hosts live music on weekends, as well as billiards, darts, and a bimini ring-toss game. 4123 Chippewa.
DISH: Swooping in for the Neapolitan crown, this restaurant on the Hill offers one of the best cheeseless pies we’ve ever had: paper-thin, roasted eggplant accompanied by garlic chile oil, parsley, and a perfect crust with the classic chew and a hint of wood-fired char. DRINK: This might be the perfect opportunity to try a naturally produced wine, such as the Everything Is Okay pét-nat sparkler from former St. Louis chef-turned-winemaker Booker Riley. TIP: Located in part of the former Amighetti’s space, da Gloria took over the expansive and semi-private brick and wrought-iron outdoor patio. 2024 Marconi.
Kevin A. Roberts
DISH: This aerospace-inspired restaurant in Rock Hill brings together dishes from owners Chris and Courtney Sedlak’s travels around the globe. The resulting menu ranges from sushi to short rib tacos. DRINK: The Paper Plane cocktail is a perfumed combination of Suntory Whisky Toki, lime juice, hibiscus flower, and it’s finished with a kick of refreshing ginger beer. TIP: Hangar’s sprawling patio, decorated with plants and a fountain, is one of the best outdoor dining spaces in St. Louis County. 9528 Manchester.
Broad Brush
Situated next to sister concept Frisco Barroom in Webster Groves, The Annex is a deli, bakery, coffee shop, and gourmet food store all rolled into one well-appointed package. Tip: Look for such specialty meats as duck pastrami in the deli case.
Kevin A. Roberts
DISH: Food is an afterthought at many microbreweries. Not so at Perennial Artisan Ales’ satellite location in Webster Groves. The crispy chicken thigh sandwich, with the bird brined in dill-pickle juice and topped with gribiche sauce, is one of the best in town. DRINK: Perennial-brewed Ollie Ollie Oxen Free to honor the late Oliver “Ollie” Hinkle, son of Mark and Jenn Hinkle and part namesake of Olive + Oak restaurant. TIP: Perennial is under the same roof as Olive + Oak, and the two share a patio at lunchtime. 216 W. Lockwood.
DISH: After retooling the former Kiin Essentially Thai downtown, owner Phatcharin Wanna (of Fork & Stix fame) rolled out a new menu with such inventive dishes as the spicy Dancing Prawns. DRINK: Try a milky, sweet Thai iced tea or one of Thailand’s best-selling lagers, Chang. TIP: For dessert, Aubergine Cafe offers a rendition of a Thai ice cream sandwich. Choose from vanilla or coconut and almond ice cream, served on sweet bread. 550 N. 7th.
Kevin A. Roberts
DISH: As the name implies, nachos are a bona fide culinary event at the Streets of St. Charles spot. Chef Dan Sammons uses succulent pulled chicken thighs on the buffalo chicken nachos. DRINK: You don’t even need to go next door to grab a frozen drink from Narwhal’s Crafted—just order one at Loaded’s counter, and it will be handed off through a service window. TIP: Want to nix the nachos? The team is happy to sub a grain bowl or salad for your toppings of choice. 1450 Beale, #130, St. Charles.
DISH: The city’s first mezcaleria—offering dozens of varieties of mezcal—is equally notable for its atmosphere, with colorful murals created by an artist from Oaxaca that depict the history of the Mexican state, which also inspired the menu. Start with queso flameado and tableside guac. Then try a signature dish, such as the tacos di birria or mole poblano. DRINK: Captain Obvious says a mezcal cocktail, but ask some questions—some brands are far smokier than others. TIP: A few of the specialty cocktails are rimmed with Sal de Chapulin and Sal de Gusano. (Ask your server before trying them.) Go ahead: Live on the edge. 25 The Boulevard.
Kevin A. Roberts
DISH: Located adjacent to Tamm Avenue Bar, Nomad could exist simply off Tommy “Salami” Andrew’s massive pastrami sandwiches alone. DRINK: Take advantage of the extensive menu of craft beers, such as the Golden Road Mango Cart. TIP: Head directly to the back patio, where you can order via QR code. 1221 Tamm.
DISH: A must is the lobster pot pie, with a bronzed blanket of puff pastry. DRINK: Begin with the house Timothy’s Martini, and finish with a Chocolate Martini. TIP: The wall of wine corks above the bar and the leather booths have a common provenance: Balaban’s in the CWE. (It was a custom for guests to toss corks in the void behind the booths, which netted 6,107 corks.) 12710 Olive.
NEWISH ADDITIONS
Because SLM’s “Best New Restaurants” issue is published every other year, the feature always includes some newish but noteworthy recommendations. Consider it a reminder to return or an invitation to pay an initial visit.
Kevin A. Roberts
Rising like a culinary Colosseum in St. Charles County is this primo pasta-and-pizza eatery. Fire-baked pies are magnificently scorched. Housemade noodles, such as a perfect al dente chitarra, are splashed and speckled with basil, garlic, butter, and cream sauces. The result rivals any Italian place in the Midwest. 5105 Westwood, St. Peters.
Like anyone of a certain age in St. Louis, veteran restaurateur Frank Romano longed for the nostalgia of the legendary Parkmoor, so he acquired the name and opened an homage serving up top-notch burgers, meatloaf blue plates, pie, and SnoBalls—shaved ice snow cones in what has to be a four-score assortment of flavors. 220 W. Lockwood.
Though just a short drive from downtown St. Louis, the restaurant feels like destination dining, situated in a converted country home in rural Edwardsville and serving up steaks, seafood, and pasta. The hilltop, tree-covered location is bucolic and instantly relaxing; inside, the repurposed house is lovely and, well, homey. Moussalli’s specialties, such as crispy glazed pork belly and fried pickles, are inspired. Friday and Saturday nights offer prime rib, but the beef is first-class anytime. 7415 IL-143, Edwardsville.
Owner Shayn Prapaisilp invites patrons to explore Thai flavors, principally the distinct cuisines of northeastern (beef nam tok, khao tod nam sod) and southern Thailand (gaeng som, kua kling), where Prapaisilp’s mother and father respectively hail from. The restaurant’s excellent cocktail list incorporates such ingredients as tamarind, fish sauce, and Thai chiles to memorable effect. It’s a family restaurant in the truest sense and a fitting complement to the legacy that Prapaisilp’s parents have created over four decades at The King & I. 4087 Chouteau.
Dogtown favorite Felix’s Pizza Pub now has a sister restaurant, serving a menu of Mexican American classics, such as chimichangas and tostadas, along with new creations like a carne asada grilled cheese. From the outset, the owners’ goal has been to create a welcoming environment, and no detail was overlooked in building a space where they’d want to dine themselves. 6655 Manchester.
Hot Chicken
Chuck’s Hot Chicken and Chicken Out offer a taste of Nashville, while Fire Chicken and Chicken Seven serve Asian-inspired takes.
Kevin A. Roberts
After opening in December 2019, Craig and Mowgli Rivard’s restaurant in Fox Park quickly became popular for its warm vibe and lovely decor, combining teak wood and pastel hues. Providing gracious service and expertly prepared dishes, Little Fox has established itself as a place to gather with friends to enjoy simple food done well. Toast the dining scene addition with a glass from the ever-evolving, all-natural wine list. 2800 Shenandoah.
“Plantain Girl” Mandy Estrella opened her first brick-and-mortar restaurant in Lafayette Square to serve up Cuban specialties, such as handmade empanadas, jibaritos, cubanos, and tostones. The restaurant keeps its menu fresh and interesting by offering a rotating selection of specials, such as a guava barbecue pork grilled cheese sandwich. A popular brunch menu includes savory dishes (pernil, for instance) and sweeter fare (French toast served with sweet plantains, maple syrup, and powdered sugar). 2001 Park.
At the Des Peres outpost of John P. Fields (whose longtime flagship is in Clayton), co-owner Wayne Prichard aims to create “a neighborhood joint with a badass kitchen.” He succeeded on both counts. The menu at the 40-seater, which Prichard says is “all about the curveballs,” ranges from the Blue Note (a fancied-up turkey-bacon melt on Parmesan-encrusted sourdough) to the house po’ boy (fried shrimp served surf-and-turf style with brisket and NOLA gravy—a trick that Prichard discovered in New Orleans). 11656 Manchester.
While dining at Union Station’s top-notch eatery, follow these instructions: Sit in a green leather booth. Nosh on stuffed tater tots and scallops, with citrus butter and fermented Fresno chilies. Set an alarm for the top of the hour (from 5–10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, noon–10 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays), when the small lake erupts in a fire-water-and-light show set to music. The 3D light show on the ceiling of the Grand Hall is also a mandatory stop, before or after dinner (on the hour, 5–10 p.m. daily). 201 S. 18th.
Kevin A. Roberts
This steakhouse in Live! by Loews, the new hotel next to the ballpark, serves some thoroughly classy cow. It’s also a repository for enough whiskies to keep even the most discerning aficionado happy. With a second-story view of the action at Busch Stadium, it’s one of the few places where you’ll fit in wearing your Cardinals jersey or black tie, dining on a burger or a prime ribeye. 799 Clark.
