A conversation with cocktail alchemist Meredith Barry

This past month, during the slow season for many restaurants and bars, we caught up with Meredith Barry of New Society and Platypus to discuss the ins and outs of the cocktail and bar industry.

How do you stay updated on the latest trends in the beverage industry and incorporate them into your mixology techniques?

One cannot hide away from ‘trends’ in this industry, especially in this era of social media. This industry is ever-evolving—it is living and breathing, because it is composed of humans. Many of these trends hark back to the past, reminiscent of classics like the Espresso Martini, which captivate the public’s interest once again. However, my approach isn’t one of outright dismissal or blind adherence. Instead, I remain committed to a journey of perpetual learning and expanding my repertoire, ensuring that I always have a diverse array of techniques and flavors at my disposal. Adaptability and versatility are the most important.

Cocktail conferences like Tales of The Cocktail, Portland Cocktail Week, and BCB serve as invaluable forums for bartenders and enthusiasts, offering opportunities to delve deep into various facets of our craft, from overarching industry themes to intricate techniques such as the argument of reverse shake or dry shake. I prioritize the exploration of culinary science through seminars and books, such as the The Flavor Thesaurus and Mouthfeel, because science will never go out of style.

While trends may come and go and they are important to note, I focus on discovering flavors, utilizing tastes that stand the test of time, and then pushing flavor boundaries and innovative techniques. You can read and discuss these concepts all day; however, nothing beats your own trial and error.

What’s your favorite cocktail to make, and is there a specific ingredient or technique you gravitate toward?

I find so much joy in the process of a clarified milk punch. The scope of flavor that one can create with a milk punch is so vast. The process of creating a milk punch is not only creatively satisfying but also promotes sustainability within a bar environment. It offers a brilliant opportunity to repurpose older juices, extract additional flavors from fruit peels, and transform culinary scraps into something delightful.

With a milk punch, you can use wine that maybe is a day too old to sip on but still good. You can use the last dregs of loose-leaf teas or a box of cereal, cookies, chips—even the unconventional seafood. Once prepared, a batch of clarified milk punch can be stored in the fridge for an extended period, making it a convenient option for service. Call it a pour-and-go—no shaking or stirring. However, you can shake it for a frothy texture, or you can also slowly heat it up in a crockpot for a cozy warm option. The use of different milks and the infusion possibilities of those milks offer another layer of complexity to the cocktail. Furthermore, milk punch has the remarkable ability to mellow out harsher spirits while creating a unique viscosity and texture that sets it apart from other drinks. The process and technique can be time-consuming, but the results are very much worth it. Like any drink, it’s all about the right ratios. Once you have those down, you can play and explore. The play is the best part.

How do you approach creating a cocktail menu that caters to a diverse range of tastes and preferences? 

First, there has got to be something for everyone—even for yourself and your crew—on a menu. Excitement and thematic cohesion set the tone, ensuring a structured and accessible menu layout. Your team should be excited about it, because they are the guest’s guides. Give each other an overarching theme/parameter for a menu to begin concise creation. When the entire bar team feels a sense of ownership over a menu, it makes a positive difference. And everyone will have a different opinion—there’s the beginning to the diverse range! Then you can have consistency of structure and vibe.

Next, it is important to offer a variety of flavor profiles that appeal to different palates. Consider categories like refreshing, bold, fruit-forward, clean, bitter, savory, silky, and weird. Look at a menu as if it is a range of taste experiences. Include a diverse range of spirits that cater to various flavor and texture categories. Your back bar doesn’t have to have everything. Curate it. Stay consistent, but be open to experimentation and inclusion of lesser-known spirits or unique liqueurs that can intrigue guests, too.

Flexibility and adaptability are so important. Be prepared to accommodate guests’ preferences, even if it means having a vodka option available for substitution, even if it’s not explicitly listed on the menu. Having a variety of spirits and flavor components allow for flexibility in crafting personalized cocktails.

Building trust and creating intimacy with your patrons can also help in understanding of what people are interested in. Establish a rapport with your guests where they trust your expertise. Encourage them to explore new flavors and spirits by offering recommendations based on their preferences. Introduce them to unique ingredients or spirits gradually, expanding their horizons while respecting their comfort zone. Ensure that your bar is equipped to prepare classic cocktails proficiently. While offering creativity and innovation on the menu, be ready to tailor drinks to individual preferences. Having a repertoire of classic recipes allows for versatility in meeting guests’ expectations—top five classics at least!

Make the most of the resources available to you, even in a limited setting. Be resourceful in sourcing ingredients and be adaptable in creating cocktails that align with your bar’s concept and ethos. All this will reflect your creativity, passion for the craft, while offering a full range.

How do you balance creativity and consistency when crafting cocktails in a high-volume setting, such as a busy restaurant or bar?  

It requires strategic approaches. Prep is necessary for ease of service. Batch—it is essential. Do not be afraid; you will move through the product. And honestly, consider a smaller, more concise menu. You do not have to be The Cheesecake Factory. There can be only one, and they have it down. Here are some quick tips:

1. Batching for Efficiency: Batching cocktails, including bitters, is a practical approach to streamline operations in a high-volume setting. It allows for quicker service without compromising quality. Bottled or kegged cocktails can really be a breath of fresh air for your bartenders during a busy service as well.
2. Caution with Perishable Ingredients: While batching is efficient, exercise caution with perishable ingredients like fresh fruit juices and syrups. These ingredients can degrade over time, affecting the flavor and quality of the cocktails. Consider preparing smaller batches of these perishable components to ensure freshness. Citric, malic, ascorbic acid solutions might be a better option for your bar. Creating super juices, or citrus stocks for more lasting sustainable items.
3. Understanding Flavor Development: Recognize that allowing batched cocktails to rest for a period can lead to flavor development and maturation. While the flavors may evolve and become more cohesive over time, they won’t necessarily spoil. Embrace this process, akin to aging in the distilling world, understanding that it might enhance the cocktail’s journey. Bottle-aged, barrel-aged—give it a try. It’s not bad—just different.
4. Consistency through Standardization: Establish standard recipes and procedures for batching cocktails to ensure consistency across multiple servings. This includes precise measurements, mixing techniques, and ingredient ratios to maintain the intended flavor profile.
5. Regular Quality Checks: Periodically taste-test batched cocktails, juices, and syrups to monitor flavor profiles and to ensure consistency. Adjust recipes or preparation methods as needed to maintain the desired taste and quality standards.
6. Flexibility in Service: While batching offers efficiency, remain flexible in accommodating individual preferences and special requests from guests. Within reason, be prepared to customize cocktails on the spot if necessary, especially for patrons with specific dietary restrictions or taste preferences. 

By striking a balance between creativity and consistency through strategic batching and quality control measures, you can uphold the standards of your bar or restaurant while delivering innovative and memorable cocktails to your guests, even in a high-volume environment.