Hitting the high notes in Santa Fe
By Diana Lambdin Meyer
The reds, browns and golds of the Sangre de Cristo (“Blood of Christ”) Mountains in northern New Mexico pop to life under a shimmering blue sky. The altitude and prevailing winds provide a scientific explanation for the beauty of Santa Fe, but a combination of Spanish and Native American cultures, intriguing architecture and an energetic populace is what makes it such a compelling destination for those with a passion for food, culture and the performing arts.
The Santa Fe Opera, for example, stages its performances under the stars in an open-air hall that commands a nearly 360-degree panorama of breathtaking scenery. One regular there isSt. Louis soprano Christine Brewer, who sang the role of Ellen Orford in Benjamin Britten’s Peter Grimes in 2005.
“I love the setting,” Brewer says. “The outdoor theater with the gorgeous starlit sky as a backdrop for each opera is just stunning. I always try to have my makeup done in time so I can go out and watch the sunset before the show begins.”
Brewer first performed in Santa Fe in 1999, in the title role of Ariadne auf Naxos. “I wish I could sing in Santa Fe every summer, because I never get tired of it,” she says. She is next scheduled to sing in Santa Fe in summer 2009, taking the title role in Gluck’s opera Alceste.
Vanessie (434 W. San Francisco, 505-982-9966, vanessiesantafe.com) is one of a few world-class Santa Fe restaurants featuring piano bars that allow aspiring and apprentice opera singers to demonstrate their talents. At La Casa Sena (125 E. Palace, 505-988-9232, lacasasena.com), singers perform dual duty as wait staff and entertainers.
One of Brewer’s favorite restaurants is Gabriel’s (505-455-7000), 10 minutes north of the opera on U.S. 84/285. Reservations are recommended, especially on performance nights. “They come to your table and make this delicious guacamole with lots of garlic and cilantro, which is a favorite of our family’s,” she says.
When Brewer and her family visit Santa Fe, they stay in a house in the country to accommodate their dogs, Mini and Macy. Many of Brewer’s fans, though, stay at Las Palomas Bed and Breakfast Inn (460 W. San Francisco, 877-982-5560, laspalomas.com), owned by world-renowned tenor Neil Rosenshein. St. Louisans saw him early in his career, in 1980, as Peter Quint in The Turn of the Screw. He came to Santa Fe seven years later to sing in The Barber of Seville and fell in love with the city. Today he owns Las Palomas, a century-old historic property, with CDs of his performances placed in all of the guest rooms.
When not teaching voice at the Manhattan School of Music, Rosenshein man-ages the inn, which has 39 spacious casitas set in lovely gardens connected by quiet pathways. On many a morning, guests will find Rosenshein and his wife, Allison, pouring coffee or serving waffles in the dining area. Later in the day, he sits by the fire in his lobby and shares stories of touring with Leonard Bernstein, partying with Lauren Bacall and performing in the world’s greatest music venues.
From Las Palomas, it’s a short walk to historic downtown Santa Fe and the beautiful Plaza, home to fabulous shopping and the popular Santa Fe School of Cooking (santafeschoolofcooking.com). The school is a demonstration kitchen, and reservations are needed for classes. The adjacent market offers an expansive line of spices, as well as cookbooks and tools of the trade unique to Southwestern cuisine.
One of Brewer’s favorite boutiques, Origins (135 W. San Francisco, 505-988-2323), is nearby. “The women who work there are great,” she says. “They have a good eye for unique designs and specialize in lovely painted silks and velvets that are perfect for concerts.”
As is the city itself.
The 2007 Santa Fe season, June 29–August 25, comprises Puccini's The 2007 Santa Fe season, June 29–August 25, comprises Puccini’s La Bohème, Mozart’s Così fan Tutte, Strauss’ Daphne, Tan Dun’s Tea: A Mirror of Soul and Rameau’s Platée. Call 800-280-4654 or visit santafeopera.org for details. For other activities in Santa Fe, call 800-777-2489 or visit santafe.org.
