Qui Tran has been in the restaurant business for as long as he can remember, hustling for his parents’ restaurant, Mai Lee, when he was just a kid, then going on to run the beloved establishment and open his popular ramen brand, Nudo House. He’s done it all in the business, but he’s particularly proud of the role that he plays outside of his restaurants’ doors.
“I’ve been a cheerleader for the city my whole life,” Tran says. “I’ve always known St. Louis has good food. Now, it’s exciting that others are starting to know that.”
Tran’s passion for St. Louis is borne of the idea that one restaurant’s success is a win for everyone in the community. From established mom-and-pop places to up-and-comers, Tran believes that St. Louis’ strength is in its diversity of culinary experiences.
The Classics
For Tran, any discussion about the St. Louis food scene must begin with the classics. “There are people who have been in this business for 30, 40, even 50 years,” he says. “These are the families, the institutions, that really have the feel of St. Louis.”
Tran points to Annie Gunn’s and chef Lou Rook as a starting point. Not only does the iconic Chesterfield restaurant embody the feel of dining in the Midwest, with its commitment to locally sourced, seasonal cuisine, but it also captures the metro area’s can-do spirit in the face of adversity. Tran recalls the floods of 1993, which destroyed the building; rather than give up, owner Thom Sehnert took out a loan to rebuild. It was a gamble that paid off in the form of a restaurant that is as popular and relevant today as it was when it first opened in 1989.
Another vital piece of St. Louis’ food story is Italian cuisine, in The Hill neighborhood and beyond. Gianfabio’s, which opened nearly four decades ago in Chesterfield, continues to set the bar for Italian fare. The Del Pietro family, who have operated several restaurants over decades—including Del Pietro’s, Il Palato, Sugo’s Spaghetteria, and Babbo’s Spaghetteria— has helped define Italian cuisine in St. Louis.
Sidney Street Café, owned by James Beard Award–winning chef Kevin Nashan, is another must-visit spot on Tran’s list. He believes Nashan’s other restaurant, Peacemaker Lobster & Crab, is just as important, thanks to its ability to create a seafood experience for Midwestern diners that’s as fresh as if you were much closer to the coasts. “Peacemaker has people picking up seafood from cargo every day at the airport,” Tran says.
Wright’s Tavern and Louie may have only been open a relatively short time, but they, too, represent the foundation of the city’s dining scene, thanks to industry veteran Matt McGuire.
Tran’s other favorites include Pueblo Solis, a South St. Louis establishment that he feels ushered in a new way of thinking about Tex-Mex cuisine, and Michael’s Bar & Restaurant, a classic, approachable mainstay.
And of course, when it comes to St. Louis food, you can’t forget Pappy’s Smokehouse. “St. Louis has always had great barbecue,” Tran says, “but Pappy’s brought national recognition and started a barbecue renaissance that helped jumpstart the city’s barbecue boom.”
The New Classics
As Tran explains, you can’t think of the St. Louis culinary scene without thinking about Bosnian food, and no one has done a better job giving this cuisine a larger platform than Loryn and Edo Nalic of Balkan Treat Box. “If you have someone coming in from out of town, you have to take them to Balkan,” Tran says. “Loryn’s food is so authentic, and it’s also approachable for those who may want to try it but might be intimidated.”
Grace Meat + Three, another must-try restaurant, serves pure St. Louis–style Southern comfort, thanks to such excellent dishes as fried chicken, house-made bologna, and greens. Tran also points to Union Loafers in Botanical Heights as an example of an establishment that consistently performs at the highest level. (His favorite dish is a simple peanut butter and jelly sandwich.)
At Peruvian restaurant Jalea in St. Charles, up-and-comer Andrew Cisneros prepares fresh ceviche and other traditional dishes, as though you were eating in his mother’s home kitchen. Tran adds that Bernie Lee’s globally inflected Clayton eatery, Akar, is a prime example of a chef performing at the highest level of their craft.
Ones to Watch
One of the recent developments Tran has been most excited about is the way that restaurant owners and chefs have been willing to dive into very niche elements of their culinary heritages. Whereas the area might have had great Thai restaurants or Mexican restaurants before, eateries now offer highly specific regional cuisine from northern Thailand or Oaxaca. He’s also been thrilled by the area’s vibrant Indian culinary scene, centered on Chesterfield, and calls the Zafrani lamb chops at the popular Black Salt among his favorite dishes in town.
The Chinese food scene has also evolved over the past few years. In addition to the Chinese American spots that have been around for decades, such newcomers as Cate Zone and ChiliSpot are now showcasing more traditional and modern regional specialties. This is happening in the city’s Vietnamese food community as well; Tran is particularly excited about the Central West End’s Saigon Café, where Michael Ly is upholding his family’s legacy while adding a creative cocktail program and music to keep things fresh.
Tran rattles off even more gems: “There’s Jodie Ferguson’s restaurant Clara B’s for Southern food, Melanie Meyer at Tiny Chef for Korean, Kurt Bellon with Izumi with his Japanese sandwiches, Vails Brothers for this hot honey chicken that just knocks it out of the park…
“There are just so many places doing incredible things. St. Louis is so diverse, with so much going on,” Tran adds. “I’m proud of every one of them.”
