Kevin A. Roberts
Arrachera Calavera
BEST MODERN MEXICAN CUISINE
Malinche
It ain’t your average taco joint. This West County cantina takes Mexican fare upscale, serving up molotitos, among other specialties. Deep-fried masa wedges are chubby with a potato and chorizo filling. Chocolate-hued refried beans and crema puddles decorate things. It’s all arranged into a splendid sculpture. Margaritas are a must—and so are reservations. 15939 Manchester.
BEST NEW DELI
Jovick Brothers Deli
Westport Plaza has seen a culinary resurgence with such recent additions as this deli from owner Casey Jovick. He already garnered a following with a popular line of spice blends and while working at some of St. Louis’ most beloved delis and barbecue joints. The sandwiches here are enormous, and whimsically named. For instance, a crusty loaf is split and weighed down with roast beef slices, served with a cup of salty, meaty jus for dipping. 510 Westport Plaza.
HIDDEN GEM (COUNTY)
Top Sushi
Hot, crispy, and greaseless, great tempura is like a sunscreen-free day at the beach. This tiny, neat place in Creve Coeur does it right. The batter’s chilled and mixed with a fine rice flour that produces sizzling shrimp and vegetables, with a puffy, lacy crust that crackles to reveal tender, juicy bites of fried happiness. 1947 Schuetz.
HIDDEN GEM (CITY)
Tiny Chef
Tucked away inside the Silver Ballroom, chef Melanie Meyer’s eatery has received national attention for the incredible weekends-only, Korean-inspired street fare. Bibimbap and Korean street tacos are always available, but the menu headliner switches every week and has included Korean tostadas, bulgogi chicken soup, and Meyer’s trademark melt-your-face-off Nuclear Noodles. 4701 Morganford.
MIDDLE EASTERN MEETS MIDWEST
Classic Red Hots
How many romantic liaisons have foundered because one person is a Chicago dog fan and the other is into Jordanian mansaf lamb? It doesn’t have to be that way. This little joint in Chesterfield serves both. Yes, it’s an unexpected mishmash of dishes. But if it can save even one relationship, hey, it’s worth it. 41 Forum Shopping Center.
Kevin A. Roberts
FITTING FUSION
Saucy Porka
When East meets West in the kitchen, it’s usually a head-on collision. So you might initially pump the brakes for the “Asian paella,” Puerto Rican–style jasmine rice tinged carmine with achiote, softened with coconut milk, and studded with sausages and slivers of smoky guajillo pork. Put the pedal to the metal, and dig into a remarkable confluence. 3900 Laclede.
BEST PLACE TO UNWIND
Grafted Wine Bar & Lounge
The inviting wine bar opened in downtown Belleville last summer. Its Old World–style lounge is a welcome setting to relax and savor owner Magda Gilpin’s expertly curated wines and food menu. And with plans in the works for an expanded patio, there will soon be even more room to unwind. 310 E.Washington, Belleville.
BEST SEAFOOD POT PIES (TIE)
Timothy’s + Piccadilly at Manhattan
There’s this verity about a golden cloud of flaky pot pie pastry, rising like a fragrant thunderhead: What’s underneath is almost always delightful. Rarely, though, is it as delicious as pies at these two places, with both serving pot pies filled with a boatload of fresh seafood. 12710 Olive, 7201 Piccadilly.
Kevin A. Roberts
BEST BREAKFAST SANDWICH
Songbird
Created by the same brains behind Kounter Kulture, Songbird started selling its breakfast-sandwich beauty known as the “Combo” at the Tower Grove Farmers’ Market to much fanfare before opening a brick-and-mortar location in The Grove. Loaded with locally sourced bacon, egg, and cheddar, the creation is rocketed to the next level with the toasted La Bonne Bouchée sourdough bread. 4476 Chouteau.
BEST SAVORY BEIGNETS
Grand Pied
Comfort food shines at this bistro in Tower Grove South. Don’t miss the beignets, with your choice of toppings, whether the baby beignets with Prairie Breeze queso, butter and cinnamon sugar, or house-seasoned sausage gravy. 3137 Morganford.
BEST MOO DAENG RICE
Chiang Mai
There’s the usual assortment of Northern Thai dishes at this new eatery in Webster Groves. Distinctively, the flavors of curries here display those multiple layers unfolding on your palate, the inevitable taste of expert Thai cooking. And the Moo Daeng Rice—a beloved street food, crispy barbecued pork with rice with a soy sauce dip—is impeccable. 8158 Big Bend.
Kevin A. Roberts
CULINARY COUPLE
If conventional wisdom says it’s a bad idea to work with your significant other, Michael and Tara Gallina not only didn’t get the memo, but they also shredded it, lit it on fire, and watched as the trade winds of success carried it into oblivion. After introducing Vicia (4260 Forest Park), the couple reimagined the beloved Winslow’s Home, renaming it Winslow’s Table (7213 Delmar). Having established two of the area’s must-visit spots, the husband-and-wife team formed Take Root Hospitality, whose mission is “changing the way St. Louis diners think about food, one restaurant at a time.” In May, the company launched Taqueria Morita, a seasonal restaurant located on the terraced grounds at Vicia. This spring, the company took over Zöe Robinson’s storied French bistro, Bar Les Frères, which had been closed for two years. Since the Gallinas reinterpreted it with a more “Parisian chic” look and feel, they decided to rename it as well. Slated to open in early July, Bistro La Floraison (7637 Wydown), French for blossoming, also happens to be an apt metaphor for the Gallinas’ career path.
BEST FAJITAS + MARGARITAS
Arzola’s Fajitas & Margaritas
Taking a back-to-basics approach with Mexican cuisine, Arzola’s offers a simple menu, where the star selections are listed in the title. While some places cushion their fajitas with a medley of vegetables, when you order a beef fajita at Arzola’s you’re actually going to get a fajita chock full of sliced, marinated, and expertly grilled beef. 2730 McNair.
Kevin A. Roberts
BEST HIP HANGOUT
Takashima Record Bar
Late nights with friends are best spent drinking cocktails and listening to vinyl albums, and Takashima Record Bar has both. Guests hang out in a listening lounge and sip musically themed beverages while a curation of albums are selected from a stash behind the bar. How popular is this hot spot in The Grove? Reservations are needed for Fridays and Saturdays, and there’s an enforced two-hour time limit. 4095 Chouteau.
BEST POP-UPS (TIE)
Mainlander + Place & Time
The Mainlander, which debuted earlier this year in Bulrush, takes guests on a tiki-inspired adventure, with custom cocktails and a creative tasting menu from industry veteran and chef Blake Askew. Place & Time, a private dining experience from industry vets Chris Bork, Caitlin Franz, and Joe Mooney, features a menu inspired by a historical moment in time, such as Paris in the 1920s. Both pop-ups rotate locations each month. mainlanderstl.com, instagram.com/_placeandtime_
Kevin A. Roberts
BEST RESTAURANT RESPITE
Root Food + Wine
Since bursting onto the restaurant scene late last year, Root has garnered praise for chef Philip Day’s seasonal dishes (with à la carte, prix fixe, and chef’s tasting menus), mixologist Dylan O’Hara’s whimsical cocktails and extensive wine list, and a scenic setting in Augusta. 5525 Walnut, Augusta.
BEST FOOD AT A COCKTAIL BAR
Lazy Tiger
You’ve likely heard the buzz about the cocktails, a curated collection whipped up from small-batch spirits with clever names. And the food? Dishes come from the kitchen of Yellowbelly next door, meaning you can also get some of St. Louis’ finest seafood: Nashville hot fried oysters, coffee-rubbed Mexican grouper, massaman cioppino. As you can tell, this is no ordinary bar food. 210 N. Euclid.
Kevin A. Roberts
BEST MIXOLOGIST MEETUP
Platypus
If you were doing a fantasy bartender draft, there’s little doubt that the first-round picks would be Meredith Barry and Tony Saputo. Each is a shockingly talented beverage professional in their own right. The colleagues teamed up this year to open Platypus in The Grove, not as a temple of high-concept cocktails but as a low-key spot to sip well-made drinks, nosh on munchies, and soak in the vibes of the sort of bar where bartenders want to drink. 4501 Manchester.
BEST ICE CREAM SANDWICH
Sugarwitch
When it comes to ice cream in sandwich form, Sugarwitch nails it with inventive, made-from-scratch frozen treats named after “bad-a** witches of literature and lore.” Co-owners Sophie Mendelson and Martha Bass began Sugarwitch in 2021, offering their creations out of an Airstream trailer on Olio’s patio. Soon, they’ll expand to a new brick-and-mortar location, the former Carondelet Bakery. 1634 Tower Grove.
Kevin A. Roberts
BIGGER IS BETTER
Great spots are just getting greater across the metro area. Broadening their ambitions into a larger Maplewood location, Bolyard’s Meat & Provisions (2733 Sutton) moved its butcher shop into a bright space across the street and now serves a full lunch menu of soups, sandwiches, and burgers. With roots tying back to Pi Pizza and Gringo Mexican restaurants, Pi ¡Rico! (10312 Manchester) uprooted its tiny takeout spot in Glendale to complete a victorious story arc, returning Pi to Kirkwood’s dining scene in a full-service operation. In the city, Sugarwitch (1634 Tower Grove) began as an Airstream-housed ice cream sandwich pop-up on the Olio patio and will soon morph into a brick-and-mortar on South Grand (see opposite page). Mac’s Local Eats (5656 Oakland), famous for its smashburgers, moved its flat tops into its own space, and downtown’s OG Rooster (1025 Washington) outgrew its original digs and made a two-block hop to continue B.E.L.T-ing out breakfast
Kevin A. Roberts
BEST PICKLEBALL AND PIZZA
Rockwell Beer Garden
Last fall, after much anticipation, Rockwell Beer Garden opened in Francis Park, located adjacent to tennis and pickleball courts. As anyone who follows chef Michael Petres on Instagram can tell, he doesn’t take a dink shot with pizza in any of its variations—it’s all overhead slams of flavor. The doubling up with Rockwell all-star brewer Jonathan Moxey makes for an all-aces experience. 5300 Donovan.
BEST NEW BAR (AND BATHROOM)
Brennan’s
“Where did you go to high school?” It’s a routine question among native St. Louisans, yet it bewilders any transplant. This year, Brennan’s cheekily dedicated its bathroom to the question by decal-ing “I Don’t Care Where You Went To High School” on the mirror and lining the walls with the framed high school yearbook photos of celebrities and staff. It’s a funny, humbling sight. 316 N. Euclid.
Kevin A. Roberts
BEST FLEXITARIAN FARE
Station No. 3
It takes as long to rattle off the concept of Station No. 3 (“flexitarian gastropub”) as it does to consume a crisp cheese shell costra taco, one of the signature items. According to co-owner/chef Natasha Kwan, a flexitarian (a portmanteau of ‘flexible’ and ‘vegetarian’) follows a mostly vegan diet but also eats occasional animal protein. The Station’s menu follows suit, from vegan riffs on a brisket sandwich and loaded brat to a real turkey burger and smoked turkey sandwich. Gastropub-style quaffs include canned craft beer, fresh juice cocktails (including margaritas), and liter bottles of affordable Italian wine. 1956 Utah.
BEST RESTAURANT NAMED AFTER A CONDIMENT
Mayo Ketchup
A restaurant owned by a woman who goes by the nickname “Plantain Girl” must have an equally whimsical moniker. But just like its founder, Mandy Estrella, the popular Lafayette Square brand shows there’s real substance behind it. One bite of the jibarito quells any questions that this is one of the most legit spots for Caribbean fare in the metro area. 2001 Park.
Kevin A. Roberts
CULINARY COMPLEX
City Foundry STL’s Food Hall is less a simple assemblage of places to eat than a thoughtfully curated dining destination. Whether it’s the stunning cochinita pibil from the traditional Yucatán kitchen Sureste, outstanding wood-fired pizza courtesy of James Beard Award winner Gerard Craft at Fordo’s, the best rotisserie chicken of your life at Chicken Scratch, or even a food counter dedicated to a St. Louis’ favorite in the form of the forthcoming STL Toasted, City Foundry shows just how delicious reinvention can be. 1 Foundry Way.
BEST APPROACHABLE VEGAN CONCEPT
CC’s Vegan Spot Soul VeganLicious
Owner Trezel Brown cooks comfort food with soul that’s so darn good, you won’t miss the meat, cheese, or sour cream. Craving a burger, nachos, or an appetizer? Consider the Double Trouble, Rotel Nacho Supreme, or Fried Shurooms with SpiciLee sauce—blended to perfection for Murphy Lee of the St. Lunatics. 4993 Loughborough.
BEST LOW-KEY HANGOUT WITH A HIGH-QUALITY MENU
The Drawing Board
Chalk a drawing on the board under the watchful eye of Bob Ross on TV. Throw some darts, or play trivia on Thursdays. Listen to music on weekends. Bring your dog, and hang out on the patio. Whatever your jam, try the cocktails and bar food (notably, smash burgers, crab Rangoon, and falafel sliders). 4123 Chippewa.
DINING DREAM TEAM
Kevin A. Roberts
OWNER / STEVE’S HOT DOGS
Steve Ewing
Known in some circles as the frontman for The Urge, Ewing is equally celebrated as St. Louis’ reigning hot dog king. In 2011, Steve’s Hot Dogs transitioned from a modest hot dog cart to a brick-and-mortar on The Hill, where the core item was a creatively topped, smoked Nathan’s hot dog, with many iterations born of collaborations with local chefs. Casting a wider net, Ewing expanded the menu to include mac and cheese bowls and burgers. Local and regional awards followed, along with national recognition. Ewing opened a larger location on South Grand in 2021, buoyed by a new partnership with Marcus and Danni Eickenhorst. The couple credits Ewing with “elevating casual fare into a true culinary experience” and having a vision that drives everything from ingredient selection and the ongoing lineup of collabs to such programs as Feed the People, which has fed more than 6,000 first responders and families in need since April 2020. 3145 S. Grand.
SERVER / TEMPUS
Nikki Brown
Nikki Brown has a simple phrase to talk about the difference between a great server and a mediocre one. “It’s empathy versus apathy.” It’s a contrast that should go without saying but one that captures the essence of what it means to truly dedicate yourself to service, not just clocking in to get a paycheck. She’s been living this motto for years, first as a server at The Majestic in the CWE and eventually as a fine-dining professional at some of the city’s most beloved restaurants. Along the way, she’s learned from the best—bartending from Ted Kilgore, hospitality from Matt McGuire—but what makes Brown so special is less about any particular training she’s received and more an innate knack for seeing her guests for who they are and tailoring each experience to their wants and needs. As her colleague Drew Lucido puts it, Brown is in this business because she loves people; if you’ve been fortunate enough to have her guide you through a dining experience, it’s hard not to return the feeling. 4370 Manchester.
CHEF / JALEA
Andrew Cisneros
Before bringing Peruvian comfort food to St. Charles with Jalea, Andrew Cisneros worked at Elaia, Privado, and the St. Louis Club, where “he learned old-school French technique and left having an immense respect for that,” says former colleage Mike Randolph. “He hasn’t let it define him, but it’s one of the reasons that he’s as good as he is. The kid’s skill is nearly impeccable.” Besides running Jalea (which was prominently featured in a New York Times article titled “America’s Next Great Restaurants Are in the Suburbs”), Cisneros helped develop the menu at Casa de Tres Reyes, a sister restaurant to Three Kings Pub, in Des Peres. Also in the works are more pop-ups. “I respect the professional way he handles himself in and around the kitchen,” Randolph says of Cisneros, “but I have more respect of who he is as a person, a family guy who’s committed to doing everything the right way, all the time.” 323 N. Main.
MANAGER / BRASSERIE
Cat O’Toole
When Cat O’Toole recalls where her passion for hospitality started, her thoughts quickly turn to her dad. A consummate host who always had a drink ready for guests the moment they walked through the door, he instilled in her at an early age the skill of reading a person’s needs. That attitude has stuck with her throughout her varied roles in the industry. Whether it was running the cash register at her uncle’s North County bar or giving outstanding service at the storied Jimmy’s Café on the Park, O’Toole has been steeped in the elements of hospitality. There’s a warmth and humility that undergirds her approach. That those qualities are balanced with an uncanny ability to be as calm as the eye of a hurricane, making her the captain a service team wants at the helm of the ship during the busiest of times. 4580 Laclede.
BAR MANAGER / FRAZER’S
Terry Oliver
Oftentimes, the most creative mixologists in town are working at the newest and buzziest places. For the past eight years, Terry Oliver has worked at Frazer’s, now in its 30th year in Benton Park. Anyone who visits his bar and observes the mastery will likely return for more. Owner Frazer Cameron calls him “a creative independent, a pioneer in his field.” Oliver brings a dramatic flair to the experience, exemplified by the Who Goes There? Cocktail, which is placed in a lantern and infused with smoke. The server puts on a cloak with a hood, picks up the lantern in one hand and a staff in the other, walks to the table like a town crier repeating the phrase “Who goes there?” while banging the staff on the floor. The sound gets the attention of everyone in the restaurant. “Theatrical, humorous, and well-orchestrated,” Cameron says of the many drinks that come with a theme or a story. “Frazer’s has evolved into an immersive experience since the day Terry came on board.” 1811 Pestalozzi.
BEST MOMOS & MORE
Namaste
Brothers Arzun and Robert Chuhan opened the St. Louis Hills restaurant last fall, with a focus on the flavorful dishes of Nepal and India. The menu features Nepal’s national dumplings, momos—steamed, fried, or served in soups. The extensive menu—with soups and curries, tandoori dishes, rice and biryani plates, seafood selections, and a selection of naan and roti—takes several visits to fully explore. 4915 Hampton.
NEW PATIO (TIE)
Wild Crush Wine Bar(n) + Cleaver & Cocktail
The Town & Country wine bar and restaurant share one of the most appealing patios in the metro area. This sprawling, building-long elevated expanse overlooks 8 acres of walking paths within a park that boasts a lake, fountain, gardens, gazebo, and a pavilion. The versatile space may also feature farmers markets, live music, fireworks displays—and even a Christmas tree lot. 13360 Clayton.
Kevin A. Roberts
HOSPITALITY EXPERIENCE (TIE)
Paul Manno’s Café + Tempus
At opposite ends of fine dining’s old school/new school continuum are Paul Manno’s Café and Tempus. The former boasts a cozy, throwback atmosphere and classic Italian food finished tableside. The latter features a rotating menu from a team of pros led by Ben Grupe, who captained a prior U.S. Culinary Olympic team. 4370 Manchester, 75 Forum Shopping Center.
FRUIT SANDWICH
Izumi
We never thought we’d see fruit on a sandwich, rather than accompanying it. That was before we met Kurt Bellon and his food truck, a Japanese-inspired “sando” concept that Bellon delivers in a teeny-tiny 1995 Subaru Sambar van. Options include a breaded pork cutlet or egg salad sando, but consider two fruit options for a snack or dessert: either fresh strawberries or cinnamon peaches with granola, both served on shokupan bread with whipped cream. izumistlouis.com.
CUSTOM DESSERT
Casa Don Alfonso’s Tiramusu
The offerings at Casa Don Alfonso (chocolate neapolitan, apple pizza, lemon caprese) are unusual and exemplary, none more so than its tiramisu. The impossibly delicate iteration is topped with whipped cream and a wafer-thin ring of chocolate. Inside is a dusting of sweet cocoa and a scatter of mini white and milk chocolate balls—but if you call ahead, a custom message or photo can be added instead for a truly personalized dessert. 100 Carondelet Plaza.
Kevin A. Roberts
RESTAURANT REMODEL (TIE)
The Tavern Kitchen & Bar + Sugo’s Spaghetteria + Bowood by Niche
Savvy restaurateurs know that most restaurants should undergo a complete refresh every decade or so. Two flagships—Sugo’s (10419 Clayton) in Frontenac and The Tavern (2961 Dougherty Ferry) in Valley Park—have done just that, both replacing their rustic barnwood and blackboard adornments with a lighter, cleaner, and more energetic color palette. Café Osage closed in the midst of a remodel, leaving Niche Food Group to finish the job. At Bowood by Niche (4605 Olive), the final touch is the addition of an exterior kitchen, including a wood-burning pizza and bread oven.
BEST MUSIC MEETS MIMOSAS
The Attic Music Bar
From Thursday through Saturday, you’ll likely find co-owner “Rockin’” Rod McCarron trading licks with friends, as well as two or three bands inside and on the patio. Choose from brews, cocktails, wine, and house specials of seasonal sangrias and jalapeño margaritas. Order Cajun food from the restaurant downstairs, and enjoy Sunday brunch on the patio, including bottomless mimosas, from noon–5 p.m. 4247 S. Kingshighway.
Kevin A. Roberts
BEST NEW RAMEN SHOP
Menya Rui
A good menya—ramen shop—is as much about the ambience as the noodles, and chef/owner Steven Pursley’s place has that classic neighborhood joint vibe down beautifully. Having spent three years working in Japan’s ramen shops, Pursley has street cred. The house-made onomichi ramen is a must-try. 3453 Hampton.
Kevin A. Roberts
BEST BISCUITS
Like a kind of culinary Lynyrd Skynyrd, the biscuit’s less sustenance and more Southern icon. Its connoisseurship is both demanding and exact. The glorious perfection is found at three noteworthy eateries. At Clara B’s Kitchen Table (106 E. Main, Belleville), the sausage gravy is a delicious yet necessary topping to keep those Texas-style “beaten” biscuits from floating off the plate. The biscuit and gravy platter with a fried egg and grits is a tribute to the breakfasts that’ll put you right back down for a nap. At Honey Bee’s (200 N. Kirkwood), ethereally light, mahoosive biscuits are honey glazed and topped with everything from jalapeños to Red Hot Riplets. The Meat Monster at Mama 2’s Biscuits (3151 Morganford) features a chicken thigh, cheddar, and, seemingly, an entire hog wedged into a buttery, flaky split biscuit.
Kevin A. Roberts
HIGH-FLYING FOOD TRUCK KITCHEN
Space Shuttle Café
Launched last year, Soulcial Kitchen, the brainchild of Brigadier General (Ret.) John E. Michel, is a broad business model encompassing a cloud kitchen within its food truck park, a business incubator, and pay-it-forward meal tokens redeemable at its branded food trucks. The most singular vehicle is the Space Shuttle Café, a 39-foot-long former DC-3 fuselage. Converted into its current configuration, with specs based on the Challenger space shuttle, it now contains a versatile food service kitchen that “represents existing [Soulcial] concepts, tests new ones, and eventually will have its own dedicated menu,” according to Michel. facebook.com/TheShuttleCafe.
Kevin A. Roberts
BREAK FROM TRADITION
Blue Violet
Mike Del Pietro has owned or operated a dozen restaurants over the years, all of them featuring Italian cuisine. That changed this May, when his accomplished ownership team opened Blue Violet (named after the state flower of Illinois) in Edwardsville. The menu focuses on short ribs and swordfish rather than spaghetti and scampi. “We didn’t want to pigeonhole ourselves to one cuisine,” explains operating partner Ryan French. “Guests will see influences from every culture.” 6108 Shoger, Ste. B, Edwardsville.
BEST NEW HEALTHY FOOD CONCEPT
rootberry
The concept began with a common dilemma. “Almost everybody struggles two to three times a day with what to eat and the choice of whether to pick something tasty, healthy, or fast,” rootberry co-founder Marc Connor explained to SLM last summer. “We want to serve up food that is all three in one.” The resulting ready-to-heat, plant-based meals concept has quickly expanded, setting up shop in the former Weber Grill space at the Saint Louis Galleria. It offers delivery and is available at grocery stores and universities across the region. rootberry.com.
Kevin A. Roberts
BEST PANDEMIC PIVOT THAT’S HERE TO STAY (TIE)
Pizza Champ and Peno
The pandemic necessitated many problem-solving pivots, but one that we’re happy to see stick is flexible patio dining space. Peno on Wydown doubled the size of its covered patio during the pandemic and designed it for year-round use. Elmwood’s Adam Altnether and Chris Kelling made sure their pick-up-only pizza joint in Maplewood, Pizza Champ, would include a 60-seat, four-season patio, ready for any weather. 7600 Wydown, 2657 Lyle.
BEST BASEBALL & BEYOND VENUE
The Bullock
Live by Loews’ terrace overlooking Busch Stadium is a natural draw on game days. But the swanky rooftop lounge is also an ideal place to watch away games (or your sport of choice) on the 12 1/2-by-7-foot television. Guests can make a reservation and gather around the fireplace near the bar to enjoy cocktails, shareable plates, and the action just beyond outfield. 799 Clark.
