1 of 3
Photography by Nick Tilley
2 of 3
Photography by Nick Tilley
3 of 3
Photography by Nick Tilley
"Wait… Are you serious?"
That’s the response I often received after telling someone I was heading to Johnson’s Shut-Ins State Park—perhaps the most iconic Missouri State Park—for the very first time. I know, it’s unfathomable. I grew up in St. Louis, yet had never made it south to the gem residing in central Missouri. I knew that had to change, so I set out on a peak-foliage weekend in late fall.
I booked the campsite, stopped in at the visitor center, hiked a few trails, swam with the shut-ins, and made s’mores over a campfire under a pristine sky filled with stars. Now, I've compiled the top 10 things you must do on a visit to Johnson's Shut-Ins.
1. Book well in advance. Johnson's Shut-Ins is one of the busiest state parks in Missouri. It’s imperative that you get on the website and book your campsite well ahead of your stay.
2. Walk into the visitor center. We pulled in late on a Saturday afternoon, and it looked deserted. I walked up and gave the door a tug—it was open—and an employee was able to give key information about the park, the campground, and the surrounding area. The visitor center highlights not only the geological wonders of the park, but also details its history, such as on December 14, 2005, when the Tom Sauk reservoir broke through its walls, sending billions of gallons of water rushing down the valley and through the shut-ins. Luckily, no one was seriously injured, and the park reopened for full use in 2010.
3. Buy yourself an "atomic candle." There is a firewood restriction at the campground because of the pervasiveness of the emerald ash borer, an exotic beetle that is ravaging forests across the state. In an effort to keep the pest contained, firewood must be purchased on-site, and the camp store has a barn full at $5/bundle. The store clerk assured me that the wood had been seasoned sufficiently. After struggling to get a fire going, I returned to the store, and he pointed me toward an "atomic candle," a handmade concoction of wood chips, kerosene, and a binding agent in a small paper cup. For $2, it was worth a shot, as what I was doing was not working. Sure enough, 20 minutes later we had a roaring campfire—$2 well spent.
4. Keep it basic. If you're car camping, or driving and not walking to your site, the park's basic campsites offer everything you'll need. A nice concrete area to park the car, flat and shaded ground to pitch your tent, a functional picnic table for dining needs, a fire pit with a flip-over cooking grate, and a bag-hanging station to keep food or trash away from wildlife. This campsite loop is fairly small, with the toilet/shower block on one end and a water source at the other. If you're lucky, you'll nab a a campsite midway between the two. Don’t expect a ton of privacy during peak season, as the campsites are close together, but there are some trees and shrubs that delineate one from the next.
5. Hike the Scour Trail. It's an easy 2-mile loop that winds through the area of the park where the flood waters raced through in 2005. The trailhead is just up the road from the visitor center, with clearly marked signage along State Road N. It's a simple hike from the parking lot, through the forest, down into the valley, along the stream bed, up the ridge, and back to the parking area. The trail is worn and well-marked, even along the valley floor. The repaired reservoir sits high on a hill in the distance, the effects of the flood still readily apparent 13 years later. While unlikely, do mind the signs and keep your ears open. There is a new alert system that will sound an alarm in the event of another flood. If you do hear something unusual, head to higher ground immediately.
6. Do the Shut-Ins Trail counterclockwise. Arguably, the shut-ins are the reason so many people flock to this park. The trail offers a varied terrain and spectacular views of the surrounding hillsides. It's a moderate hike, as Scour Trail is a more easy one. The Shut-Ins Trail has boulders to navigate, rocky crags that require close attention, and a few steep sections of ascent/descent. Pets are not allowed, so your four-legged friends will have to stay behind. That said, if you’re up for the challenge, be sure to do the trail counter-clockwise. That way, you will have completed the 2-mile loop upon your arrival at the shut-ins.
7. Go for a swim. Regardless of how cold the water is, a swim will be invigorating and refreshing. A quick dip might make for the best part of the trip.
8. Avoid the crowds. We visited the park in late fall, and were immediately startled by the size of the parking areas. Vast slabs of concrete and asphalt looked ready for all those summertime revelers. On our trip, the parking lots and trails were empty. While the campground wasn't empty, it definitely wasn't full. I can't even imagine what the park is like midsummer, those massive lots full of cars, the campgrounds full of trailers. Yikes. To avoid the crowds, go in the shoulder season—early spring or late fall—and try to go during the week if you can. You might even end up having the entire shut-ins swimming area all to yourself like I did.
1 of 2
Photography by Nick Tilley
2 of 2
Photography by Nick Tilley
9. Take a trip to those famous Elephant Rocks. If you're already at Johnson's Shut-Ins, you might as well stop at Elephant Rocks State Park on the way back to St. Louis. It’s a small park, day-use only, and is centered around these massive igneous monoliths that rise out of the Earth. It is really something to behold. An adventurous trail, ample bouldering opportunities, and great views of the surrounding countryside combine with neatly spaced picnic areas to create an ideal spot for a relaxing afternoon on the way back to the city.
10. Take plenty of photos. These two parks offer myriad photo opportunities when it comes to unique landscapes and otherworldly rock formations. Slip down a rockslide, climb a boulder, and be sure to capture the moment—you'll want to remember your visits to the Johnson's Shut-Ins and Elephant Rocks state parks.
