Huh? Sorry, my hearing is still a bit jacked up after a recent visit to The Frisco Barroom. The decibel level makes an air hammer ensemble sound hushed. That’s to be expected: The place does advertise itself as a barroom. In early evening, it’s as if every worker bee in Webster Groves and environs has swarmed, celebrating the end of another day of pollen-gathering.
A century-old dry goods store has been handsomely repurposed into a space that balances the atmosphere of a thoroughly enjoyable after-work pub with the sensibilities of an informal restaurant: Cheers meets the Tip Top Café.
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Owners John Barr and Kelley Hall-Barr also run the nearby Civil Alchemy, a sort of boutique general store. (They previously owned K. Hall Studio, the candle company that spanned four stores and thousands of outlets across the world, before selling the company in 2015.)
At Frisco, you’ll find burgers, French dip, pierogis…all that and more. If you’re looking for just a nibble to go with your craft beer, start with a pillow-thick pretzel, salt-spangled and served with a couple of mustards; or a bowl of sweet mussels, steamed in beer, with a hunk of bread crusty enough to stand up for dipping in that garlicky, briny broth. Poutine is the awesome pile of fries, cheese curds, and gravy that your palate craves (and your circulatory system fears). House-made jerky is smoky and salty. And someone in the kitchen knows Michigan: A smoked whitefish dip is deliciously authentic.
If dinner’s in the offing, climb the caloric ladder into the realm of, say, a pastrami sandwich. Pastrami’s rarely bad, but it’s even better as it is here: house-cured, smoked, and served on freshly baked rye painted with pungent, grainy mustard. (All of the bakery goods are produced in-house.) That same mustard enlivens a link of salciccia nestled in a hefty French bun with spicy giardiniera. It’s an unusual presentation of this city’s iconic sausage. Frisco’s version of another local classic, French onion soup, passes the “Does it taste like Famous-Barr’s?” test admirably.
The house burger is fine, though complaints about the comparatively puny size are understandable. Beef-ologically speaking, it’s better to go with the French dip: roasted top round slices served in a baguette with the requisite dunking jus. It’s a plentiful helping, and the bread’s quality adds considerably to the enjoyment.
Then there’s the Serious Eating, a description met by both pierogis and pasties. Pierogis are sadly underrepresented in St. Louis; Chopin and these happy dumplings must be among Poland’s greatest contributions to civilization, and the versions here do them justice. Stuffed with mashed potatoes and caramelized onions and browned in butter, the tender pillows of joy are served with sour cream. Frisco offers a more interesting take: the same dumplings loaded with gooey farmer cheese and topped with a maple syrup spiked with an alcohol infusion.
Welsh pasties are also hard to find locally. If you’ve never had one, this is a good place to start. A thick pie-like crust holding a filling of ground beef, potatoes, rutabaga, and onion is baked to flaky golden perfection and served with a ramekin of beef gravy. Hearty, filling, and full of flavor, this might be the ideal winter meal, especially when washed down with a beer.
Charcuterie-type boards are a specialty. Four varieties are extravagantly loaded with everything from smoked trout to duck rillettes, goat cheese, dried cherries, and lemon preserves. The Gatherer’s Board is a delight. The deep-fried goat cheese balls, mushroom pâté, and sliced cheddar make a perfect light repast or shared course.
A wedge of Derby pie is glorious: fudgy, studded with walnut chunks, underpinned by a tender pastry crust. The cocktails, including the Frisco margarita and a citrus-sparkling muddled mint lemonade with vodka, are equally worthwhile divertissements.
In mid-September, shortly after our visit, Frisco rolled out a full menu with heartier fare, including such entrées as grilled sirloin steak, garlic grilled shrimp, and rainbow trout—as if we needed more reasons to return.
In warmer weather, the outdoor garden area and rooftop seating are magnets. Both are thoughtfully designed to take advantage of the neighborhood’s vistas and enable comfortable socializing. Inside is a room, separate from the bar, where the noise is less daunting.
As John Barr explained when Frisco opened, the name is “more of a nod to this historic row of buildings than a direct connotation [of] trains or the city.” Nonetheless, this new Webster Groves fixture is well worth a stop.
The Bottom Line: The comfortable hangout offers informal dining, a great patio, and upstairs outdoor seating.
