The third time was the charm for one of St. Louis' favorite chefs, Kevin Nashan.
The owner of Sidney Street Café and Peacemaker Lobster & Crab Co. took home the James Beard Award for Best Chef: Midwest this evening at the foundation's 27th awards gala, a black tie event held at Lyric Opera of Chicago. The Beard Foundation Awards have been dubbed the "culinary Oscars."
Nashan was a finalist for the award twice before, in 2014 and 2016. He was a semifinalist five times previously, in 2011, 2012, 2014, 2015, and 2016.
Accepting his award this evening, Nashan thanked his wife, Mina, his brother, Chris (who's managed both of his restaurants), and "wanted to thank St. Louis."
For many reasons, the city should be thanking him. Case in point: In two weeks, Nashan is off to California with Companion's Josh Allen to represent St. Louis in a 300-miles-in-three-days bike ride to benefit No Kid Hungry. (Donations accepted via the website.)
Niche Food Group’s Gerard Craft won St. Louis’ first Best Chef: Midwest when he took home the medal in 2015 (and as such, was not eligible for the award this year). Craft had been a finalist six times prior to receiving the award.
The other finalists for the award this year were Steven Brown (Tilia, Minneapolis), Justin Carlisle (Ardent, Milwaukee), Jorge Guzman (Brewer’s Table at Surly Brewing Co., Minneapolis), and St. Louis’ Kevin Willmann (Farmhaus). Willmann was a finalist last year as well.
And it wasn’t St. Louis' only James Beard Award of the evening.
In late January, Gioia's Deli on The Hill was named a James Beard America's Classics honoree, one of five iconic restaurants to be lauded this year. (This was the first time that a St. Louis restaurant was recognized since the award’s inception, in 1998. Stroud’s, Kansas City’s famous pan-fried chicken eatery, was honored that year and until Gioia's, was the only Missouri restaurant to receive the Beard Foundation’s prestigious award.)
Co-owner Alex Donley was at Lyric Opera this evening to accept the heavy medal. It was his first trip to the Beard Awards. “This weekend has made me realize how special our business is and how important it is to stay true to what we are and don't compromise quality," he said. "Everyone here has one thing in common, and that's love for food.”
Asked about his biggest takeaway of the weekend, he said that the most successful restaurateurs at the gala have "a passion and magnetic quality" and "were the first to offer congratulations. It’s reassuring to know that hard work, a great product, and a kind, magnetic personality is the recipe for a successful and happy life in this industry.”
Donley with Travel Channel's Andrew Zimmern, when the Bizarre Foods host visited Gioia's in 2013.
Donley also spent some time with the other America's Classics winners. "They are awesome," he said. "Every one of them is completely consumed by their businesses and making those businesses better. They all represent the best parts of their cities and genuinely care about their communities. I hope people think the same of me.”
