J. P. Fields West opens today in Des Peres

When Wayne Prichard pitched the idea of opening J. P. Fields West to Jim Campbell, owner of the flagship John P. Fields in Clayton, Prichard said he wanted to open "the kind of place I want to go.” What he envisioned was a small neighborhood restaurant where a family of four wouldn't have to spend $75 for a meal, which he said was common up and down the Manchester corridor.

Photo by George Mahe

The location he had in mind: the former Fozzie’s Sandwich Emporium (11656 Manchester) in The Shoppes at Tallbrooke. At 1,800 square feet, it was less than half the size of the Clayton location, which was part of the pitch—and the appeal.

“When asked how I was going to compete with the big boy competition nearby [a reference to Circle 7 Ranch and Three Kings Pub], I tell everyone, 'I’m not. I’m not even trying to compete with them.'”

He sees it as “co-opetition, not competition,” reasoning that "those restaurants are so large and so busy that my little 40-seater shouldn’t have any trouble staying busy, too.”

The bar and grill menu, while different than the flagship’s, does include some of the favorites. "But here we’re all about the curveballs,” Prichard says of the twists and turns that differentiate the location, which he and Campbell own together.

One of the twists: the unexpectedly low price point. Sandwiches, burgers, and barbecue (all of which include a side) are $10 or less. Same goes for the salads (topped with warm, house-made garlic-sourdough croutons) and sharables (including JP’s Famous Wings, served one of three ways).

The house po’ boy includes a curveball option: topping the fried shrimp with brisket and NOLA gravy, surf-and-turf style, an add-on that Prichard discovered in New Orleans.

The basic burger is a 1/3-pound blend of grilled chuck, short rib, and brisket served on a brioche bun with a choice of toppings (including sautéed onions and peppers), cheese (nine choices in all), and a side for $8.50. (Top-shelf toppings, such as a fried egg, bacon, brisket, and pulled pork, are an additional $2.)

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Courtesy J. P. Fields West

The likely big seller, The Blue Note, Prichard calls “a three-curve baller.” The gussied-up turkey bacon melt (pictured above) includes multiple cheeses, house-made honey mustard, and Parmesan-encrusted sourdough that's grilled using real butter. “When flat-grilling a sandwich, there is no substitute for real butter,” Prichard says.

Sides include Sidewinders fries (a twisty, crunchy, fun option) and tater tots. (Both can be tossed with Hot Sauce Dust from Hot Charlie’s, a local hot sauce maker.) Other sides include  brisket beans, seasonal fruit, and D’s Cookout Slaw (made from the recipe of Prichard’s wife).

Before partnering with Campbell, Prichard had logged more than 20 years in the industry, the most recent being a 12-year stint with Chipotle, where he oversaw marketing in nine states before the company eliminated the field marketing program. During his travels, he became familiar with regional barbecue. The brisket sandwich, dubbed The Katy Trail, pays tribute to three of his favorite styles: Kansas City, St. Louis, and Texas. 

The Anthony, a pulled pork sandwich, is named after Anthony Bourdain, one of Prichard's longtime idols. The StL Hippie Chick, a pulled jackfruit sandwich topped with coleslaw, is a nod to Prichard’s wife, he says.

The interior includes several TVs, along with black-and-white photo murals of St. Louis cityscapes. The chairs are light-colored wood, and the tables are stainless-steel, as are the “dog bowl” condiment caddies. All surfaces are cleanable and easily maintained. Everything behind the small “one-step” bar is within easy reach, including ingredients for several signature cocktails (all priced at $6) and six craft beers on tap. “We have the ‘family beers,’ too," he says, "all in bottles.” Guests can dine in or take out by ordering online. Delivery is not available, at least initially.

Both partners are committed to giving to local charities, and two organizations received donations over the weekend, during the restaurant’s soft opening. Prichard says the comments from customers were all positive, ranging from “the kind of place we wanted” to “the kind of place we need.”