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Photography by Kevin A. Roberts
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Photography by Kevin A. Roberts
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Photography by Kevin A. Roberts
Maybe—OK, probably—I spend too much time online. Case in point: When our appetizer arrived at EdgeWild Bistro & Tap in Creve Coeur, all I could think was #asparagus. You have to give the restaurant’s owners credit for changing tack almost as quickly as a video goes viral. Their first concept for the space was WildSmoke, part of the barbecue mania that has gripped St. Louis for several years. “Upscale” barbecue, however, has been a risky part of that trend. (See also: the shuttered Salted Pig.) After a short time, WildSmoke went up in smoke.
That’s when EdgeWild executive chef Aaron Baggett created a new menu, what’s arguably his best work to date. That asparagus, for example, comes wrapped in a delicate tempura that’s cooked so quickly, the vegetable retains a crispness. The evocation of Twitter comes from the double octothorp (look it up) in which the stalks are arranged.
More than half the menu is sandwiches, many of them clever riffs on classics. Baggett’s interpretation of a Philly cheese steak (pictured), for instance, has thinly sliced sirloin and swaps out Cheez Whiz for melted beer cheese. Beer-braised onions and peppers place additional focus on the brewer’s art. The dish emphasizes the “Tap” portion of the restaurant’s name, which is taken quite seriously. The draft list is extensive, comprising more than 20 choices, from the local macrobrewery’s products to such craft eccentricities as the Mikkeller Spontanbeetroot (yes, a beet sour).
The meatloaf trio—composed of beef-and-sausage, duck, and bison meatloaves—is one of six permanent entrées, supplemented by daily specials. The fried smoked chicken has a crisp skin and an almost hammy flavor. The blackened redfish (a special) has a moist interior and is served over white asparagus.
If the thought of funnel cakes prompts greasy memories of the state fair, don’t let that dissuade you. The meandering snakes of fried dough are almost devoid of oil, and the accompanying blueberry compote has a rich, concentrated sweetness.
The dining room’s décor retains some barbecue references, most notably the spotted faux-cowhide upholstery, but it’s an approachable space. Service takes a team approach, yielding a quick but appropriate pace.
The wine list includes both proprietary wines produced by the owners and a decent selection of name-brand wines. And beer drinkers looking for late-night alternatives should note the late happy hour, when the beers can be appropriately complemented with any of eight pizzas—on crusts of beer-enhanced dough, of course.
