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Cognac was originally a “poor man’s drink,” a distillation of the insipid, leftover wine of the region near the French town that is its namesake. Blended principally from Ugni Blanc (with Folle Blanche and Colombard singing backup), cognac is aged for a minimum of two years in French oak barrels. The appeal of this pleasurable eau de vie has gone up and down and now back up again. In the 1990s, its popularity soared when it was praised by hip-hop legends such as Tupac Shakur, Busta Rhymes, and Nas.
The brandy is produced in a wide range of styles, quality levels, and price ranges; today, this “poor man’s drink” commands the highest spirit prices in the world. (Every time I drink it, I definitely get poorer.) When consumed correctly—sipped, not slugged—cognac can be a soul-enriching experience that can cap (not a gangster reference) off a night like no other.
Drawing from six different subzones, or crus, cognacs are usually blended from a combination of wines to add dimension. Blends from the top two crus (Grande Champagne and Petite Champagne) are referred to as Fine Champagne. Aging makes a big difference as well, mellowing the spirit and making it more approachable. VS (Very Special) cognac is aged for a minimum of two years; VSOP (Very Special Old Pale), a minimum of four; and XO (Extra Old), a minimum of six.
Here are four cognacs that have treated me well over the years.
The cognacs listed are available at The Wine and Cheese Place, 7435 Forsyth, 314-727-8788, wineandcheeseplace.com.
Camus VS Elegance, $24.99
This cognac is light and fruity, with flavors of hazelnut and almond. A breath of vanilla and spice fills the palate with a long, persistent finish of orchard fruit and candied zest. A great value.
Maison Surrenne Petite Champagne, $39.99
Made from 100 percent Petite Champagne, this cognac combines the rich yet soft nuances of grapes from that region with flavors of caramelized apricots kissed with vanilla. An excellent value as well.
Kelt VSOP, $54.99
This cognac demonstrates medium-red to amber color;
a delicate and restrained floral aroma; and elegant, sweet flavors. It evidences a softer, more delicate style, with a rare smoothness from start to finish. Very sophisticated.
Courvoisier XO Imperial,$104.99
Once voted the best cognac in the world, this is made from lots 25 to 35 years of age (far exceeding the minimum age of six). It is intensely aromatic, with a play of velvety sweetness and distinct flavors of candied orange zest, vanilla, and allspice.
