St. Louis is part of a sorority, if you will. We have 15 sisters across the globe, in such places as Indonesia, Poland, and Japan. President Dwight D. Eisenhower inspired the idea of sister cities in the ’50s, suggesting that they could help reduce the likelihood of conflicts between countries.
“More than 900 U.S. cities are now linked with cities in 92 different countries,” says Tim Nowak, executive director of the World Trade Center St. Louis, which oversees the Sister Cities program. “It’s a wonderful way to increase awareness of other cultures.” Here’s what you might expect to find if you were to pay a sisterly visit.
THE CITY'S SETTLERS
St. Louis’ original settlers came from France, Germany, and Ireland. Today, the tables have turned, with St. Louisans returning to find their roots.
Galway and County Donegal, Ireland
“Like St. Louis, Galway sits on a river and is a vibrant college town,” says Stella Sheehan, a native of the city and deputy director of World Trade Center St. Louis. Galway is Ireland’s westernmost city, established in the 13th century, and it, too, has an arch. Though not quite on the scale of ours, the Spanish Arch is certainly older. It was built in 1584 and is a remnant of the old city walls. The nearby Spanish Arch Bar has a reputation for live traditional Irish music. The landscape in County Donegal is also breathtaking. Situated in the northwest corner of Ireland, the 35,000-acre Glenveagh National Park boasts stunning mountains, lakes, and boglands.
Stuttgart, Germany
Similar to St. Louis, Stuttgart has a rich immigrant population, with an equally diverse dining scene. “You’ll find many cool restaurants on the pedestrian Königstraße downtown,” says St. Louis resident Susanne Evens, a native of Stuttgart. More than a kilometer long, it’s said to be one of Germany’s longest thoroughfares. Stuttgart is also considered one of Europe’s greenest cities: A swath of green space in the form of the letter U wraps around its center. It was established over decades, between the ’30s and ’90s, thanks to a series of garden shows. Popular parks in the Green U include the Killesbergpark, Schlossgarten, and Rosensteinpark. Wilhelma, one of Germany’s largest zoos and botanical gardens, is just northeast of Rosensteinpark.
Lyon, France
France’s second-largest city is also second to only Paris for the number of British and American expats. It prides itself on welcoming everyone, with numerous activities for the LGBT community. Fierté is Lyon’s pride festival, and the Festival Écrans Mixtes offers a host of LGBT films. An international LGBT sports tournament called Tigaly attracts more than 1,200 athletes each spring. Throughout the year, visitors can stroll through the Parc de la Tête d’Or, the largest urban park in Europe. It includes the Zoo de Lyon, which houses dozens of endangered species and is free to the public (sound familiar?).
LESS-TRAVELED EUROPE
Samara, Russia
St. Louis has Lindbergh, McDonnell Douglas, and Boeing. But did you know that Samara has its own aerospace claim to fame? It was a key player in the Soviet Union’s space program. In fact, Yuri Gagarin’s famous craft, the Vostok 1, was built there. The event’s been captured at the Cosmic Samara Museum, which is dedicated to rocketry history. You can’t miss its 68-meter, 20-ton rocket monument. One more reason for St. Louisans to visit: Samara will host the FIFA World Cup soccer tournament in 2018.
Brcko, Bosnia and Herzegovina
Located in northern Bosnia and Herzegovina, Brcko (pronounced birchko) is positioned on the Sava River and features the largest port in Bosnia. Like St. Louis, it has an ornate City Hall, built in 1892. A national monument, the building was restored in 2009 and now serves as a library and gallery.
Szczecin, Poland
A fellow river city, Szczecin hosts the annual Baltic Tall Ships Regatta, when impressive vessels from around the world compete, drawing millions of visitors. Robert Ogrodnik, president of the St. Louis–Szczecin Sister Cities Committee, says the city is also a paradise for landlubbers—parks and green space dot the area.
HOT SPOTS
Georgetown, Guyana
The Cathedral Basilica of St. Louis might have the world’s largest mosaic installation in the world, but St. George’s Cathedral in Georgetown has its own claim to fame: At a height of 143 feet, it’s the world’s tallest wooden church. British architect Sir Arthur Blomfield designed the Anglican cathedral in a Gothic style, and it is constructed from a native hardwood called greenheart. For those who prefer other types of spirits, the Diamond Distillery, on the bank of the Demerara River, is home to Demerara Distillers, makers of the world-famous El Dorado rum. It’s the last surviving rum distillery in Guyana. See the old copper retort pots, stills, and steam boilers, then head up to the Barrel Bar, made of oak casks, for a sampling.
Nanjing and Wuhan, China
Located on the banks of the Yangtze River, at a natural transportation hub, Nanjing served as the capital city of ancient China during the Three Kingdoms period. Today, it’s the second largest commercial center in eastern China. When St. Louis and Nanjing established a connection in 1979, we became the first U.S. metro area to have a sister city in the People’s Republic. Like St. Louis, both Nanjing and Wuhan are renowned for their summer heat. They are two of what Chinese citizens call the “three furnaces.”
Ching-ling Tai, a St. Louis–Nanjing Sister City Committee member, says anyone awed by the geology of Meramec Caverns shouldn’t leave without a piece of Yuhua stone. These Rain Flower Stones are a distinct product of the city, polished smooth by river waters. They come in brilliant shades of rose, green, and yellow.
Wuhan is the most populous city in central China and one of the most ancient. Today, it serves as a major culinary and shopping destination. “Duck necks are a delicacy in Wuhan,” says Tai, referring to the spicy snack that’s said to have originated there in the 1990s. Jingwuyabo is a food chain famous for duck necks; it takes its name from Wuhan’s well-known Jingwu Road, where duck neck stores abound. If you’re looking for something to drink with that duck neck, have a familiar frosty one: Budweiser is brewed at the Budweiser Wuhan International Brewing Co.
Saint-Louis, Senegal
The weeklong International Jazz Festival of Saint-Louis draws musicians from around the world. Charlie Rose, Mary Institute and Country Day School’s longtime music teacher, attests to Senegal’s importance in the jazz world. “Many excellent Senegalese musicians have come to St. Louis to perform and teach,” he says.
Another notable stop in Senegal: the Commerce Market. “It’s quite a scene,” says local artist Clayvon Ambrose Wesley. At least twice the size of Soulard’s market, it’s a wonderful place to pick up some food, clothes, and art.
And just northeast of Saint-Louis, in the Senegal River Delta, is the Djoudj National Bird Sanctuary, considered one of the world’s most important bird sanctuaries. The 40,000-acre wetland is home to some 1.5 million birds.
Bogor, Indonesia
Situated 60 kilometers south of Jakarta, the Bogor Botanical Gardens is nearly thrice the size of our own Missouri Botanical Garden. At 210 acres, it contains almost 3,500 species of plants. “Visiting the gardens is a wonderful way to experience how closely the native way of life is connected to nature,” says Alex Soetjipto, founder and president of St. Louis–Bogor Sister Cities Committee.
Suwa, Japan
SLM dining critic Dave Lowry, chairman of the St. Louis–Suwa Sister City Committee, has visited Suwa many times. He notes several local delicacies, including horse (raw or cooked), sparrows (usually grilled), and bee and wasp larvae and pupae (hachi-no-ko). Lowry describes the last dish as a “texture sensation,” soft and grapelike. “If I had to make a choice between hachi-no-ko and St. Louisans’ beloved Provel,” he says, “I’d choose larvae every time.”
Beyond the food are plenty of other memorable experiences. During the Lake Suwa Fireworks Festival, held each August, 40,000 fireworks go up in smoke during a two-hour event. Suwa’s also known for its hot springs, or onsen. There are different springs in the area, one of which—the Lake Suwa Geyser—rises to 50 meters every hour. Another is located in the town’s train station.
Drumming It Home
St. Louis Osuwa Taiko was founded in 1986 to celebrate the art of Japanese ensemble drumming. The group’s largest show is held each year at the Missouri Botanical Garden’s Japanese Festival.
ST. LOUIS' FAVORITE CUISINES
Bologna, Italy
Lovers of Italian food are spoiled in St. Louis, but nothing beats the real deal. Where to begin in Bologna? The Classic Bologna Food Tour begins at one of the city’s best coffee bars, then proceeds to the Quadrilatero, the foodie heart of Bologna. Visit a fresh pasta artisan to see how tortellini and tagliatelle are made. Enjoy a full lunch of traditional charcuterie at one of Italy’s oldest osterie. End the day at a gelateria. Each place on the tour is chosen for its historic significance and local reputation.
“Bologna is known as both the Red City for communism and the Fat City for food,” says Patrick Barnidge, a St. Louis native who’s lived extensively in Italy. “Bologna’s culinary tradition is based on meat—specifically mortadella—and pasta—specifically tortellini, lasagna, and tagliatelle.” He recommends such restaurants as Osteria Bottega, Vicolo Colombina, and Trattoria di Via Serra, known for serving pastas in their traditional forms.
San Luis Potosí, Mexico
For an authentic taste of enchiladas, head to central Mexico, where the cheese-stuffed enchiladas potosinas are a must. They’re more like empanadas than traditional enchiladas and are distinctive for their bright red color. “The corn masa for the tortillas is ground with spicy red chilies,” says Tola Spuhl, who grew up near San Luis Potosí. “I have several dozen of them in my freezer. I bring them back with me whenever I go.” She compares the queso blanco filling to Provolone and likens the huge variety of enchiladas in Mexico to the variety of sandwiches available in America.
“Enchilada preparation changes according to geographic location; enchiladas potosinas are very characteristic of this particular city,” says Spuhl, who’s lived most of her adult life in St. Louis and taught Spanish in the Parkway School District for 25 years. She describes San Luis Potosí as a busy, sophisticated city offering an array of traditional Mexican and international foods.
Rethinking Ravioli
Raviole bolognese are traditional cookies with a jam filling. They’re also called raviole di San Giuseppe because they used to be baked to celebrate St. Joseph’s Day.
