Dave Lowry has been reviewing restaurants for St. Louis Magazine for more than three decades and, much to his continued disappointment, has never once been offered an emolument by any restaurateur for a positive review. He has eaten more fine food, drunk more great wine, and rusticated in the happy environs of more wonderful restaurants than he could ever have deserved. He’s sipped lemoncello with Tony Bommarito and savored grasshopper tacos. He knows his strawberry fork from his aspic .spoon, His favorite number for dinner remains two: himself and his server.