In a city known for its exceptional Italian, this pasta house stands out from the rest
By Dave Lowry
Photographs by Katherine Bish
You know how, for about six months back in 1975, it was kind of cool and clever to knot a neckerchief on a dog, but since then it’s become progressively more annoying and clichéd? The same can be said of restaurants that burst onto the scene with trendy takes or creative riffs on traditional food but very quickly become tired and passé. “Clever” was the early word on Trattoria Marcella, a South City eatery that was packed every night of the week when it opened a few years back. “Just wait,” we heard. “It’ll get old.”
It didn’t. This trattoria remains one of the top destination-dining spots in the area, attracting a wide clientele, and though there are some dependable favorites, the kitchen continues to surprise and delight with new creations.
Openers are mostly exceptional. Rings and tentacles of squid, puffy with a crisp coating, need no distracting dipping sauce. Instead the rings are simply served on a tangle of flash-fried spinach and dusted with Parmesan. (That’s a good way to judge this popular appetizer: Can the squid’s taste and texture stand alone?) The roasted wild mushrooms are equally worthy, easily the best starter on the menu. A pile of fried polenta squares and meaty chunks of roasted mushrooms are swirled in a glossy, sumptuous sauce of cream and Marsala wine, spiked with a piquant touch of Gorgonzola. Slices of bruschetta are average, save for the generous shaving of Parmesan topping the tomatoes—a tasty touch. The Neapolitan classic melanzane alla Parmigiana is almost too much as an appetizer. Slices of eggplant, tomatoes and mozzarella spiked with fresh basil are baked, and the result is fabulously rich—the serving size here invites sharing. Bread comes in the form of yeasty, airy slippers of ciabatta with a white-bean dip. Both are excellent.
Main dishes arrive beautifully presented, especially the pasta, much of it housemade. Lasagna al forno comes in the ceramic dish in which it was baked, still steaming from the oven. Too often lasagna is relegated to potluck-dinner status: hamburger slathered in a bland sauce between layers of poorly cooked pasta, heavy and gloppy. One bite of this trattoria’s version, and you’ll see not only how good it can be but also how light expertly prepared lasagna really is. It’s an odd take—the lively tomato sauce of the southern version of the dish is combined with the cream-and-butter besciamella of Tuscany’s approach, and mild Italian sausage mixes with ground beef—but it works. Other pasta worth trying: a pork osso buco paired with ravioli stuffed with butternut squash and decorated with a sun-dried–cherry demiglacé; and tubes of bucatini tossed with hefty shrimp, clams and squid, along with roasted peppers and asparagus in a light olive oil–and–chile dressing. A lobster risotto was luxurious, with pieces of the supreme crustacean mixed with shrimp and swirled into an expertly cooked risotto. Unfortunately, the kitchen was too liberal with the tomato sauce, and it overpowered the seafood.
Among the secondi is a presentation of duck that is superb, a must-try if it’s available. A big dollop of risotto studded with chanterelles and slices of roasted broccoli would have been delicious and noteworthy by itself, but topped with a large split duck breast grilled perfectly—pink and juicy in the center, the surface browned and crosshatched with grill marks and covered with a rich sauce—it is well into the extraordinary range. The restaurant’s version of chicken spiedini is completely satisfying as well. Chicken pounded into thin cutlets is wrapped around breadcrumbs and cheese, then charbroiled and nestled atop a mound of mashed potatoes. The accompanying roasted slices of asparagus complement the chicken pleasingly.
The same mashed potatoes that hold the spiedini are used to similar good effect alongside a grilled beef tenderloin that will satisfy any carnivore. The sauce, a reduction of Barolo wine and garlic, could not be more appropriate. Feeling adventurous? Go for the lamb loin chops served with a risotto of tomato, eggplant and basil. Liver lover? You’re weird—but you’re also in luck. Their version is magnificently rich, the liver served with a thick Marsala sauce of caramelized onions and bits of pancetta.
Closers like crème brulée and a chocolate tart are fine, though fairly standard. Dessert gluttons should note that Ted Drewes is less than a mile away.
Marcella gets good marks in opting for Paris goblets as wineglasses. The bowls funnel aromas directly to the nose, hold a reasonable quantity of wine and show, to best effect, the wine’s color. They are perfect for a trattoria. The wine available to fill them is equally well chosen. Best bet by far here, however, are more than a dozen of those big, bone-dry Barolos that balance so much of Italy’s classic fare. Prices range from the affordable to those more costly than a semester in college; all are reasonable, though. Fresh Barolos are notoriously harsh. It’s illuminating that the youngest on Marcella’s list is six years old—plenty of time for it to have mellowed and developed a happy complexity.
The layout of Trattoria Marcella is a study in good design—and a response to complaints about the noise when the restaurant debuted. Once you get past a small bar at the entrance that is frequently thick with those waiting for a table, the space divides into a series of smaller rooms situated so that other diners can be seen but not really heard. A restful color scheme of orange and yellow and some extravagant floral arrangements both add a nice touch. The place can be crowded, but it is no longer so boisterous as it once was, and noise levels are quite acceptable. Service is polite and professional, though it can be a bit slow at peak periods. This is, in any event, not a place to rush through dinner.
Oh, and along with the doggie-neckerchief thing: the headset telephones that make you look like an air-traffic controller? It’s over for them, too.
Trattoria Marcella
Address: 3600 Watson
Website: trattoriamarcella.com
Phone: 314-352-7706
Average Main Course: $14
Reservations: Yes, and good luck
Dress: A 10 being a formal garden party and 1 working in the garden, go for a 7.5
Bottom Line: Easily one of St. Louis’ best eateries, with a variety of regional dishes and some creative originals
