By George Mahe
Photograph by Katherine Bish
It’s a fact that most restaurant names provide the diner with a culinary snapshot—or at least a hint—of the experience that awaits them. Only Alex Trebec could tell you that the huapango—where Chesterfield’s new Wapango gets its name—is a Spanish dance that’s “lively and beautiful, exotic, with intricate steps.” And so it is: Outside, the patio is warmed by giant torches, rhythmic salsa and five glowing iron orbs. Even the signage pulsates. Within, bent ebony woods and ochre walls soften fiery accent fabrics.
The menu is “pan-Latin” (think anywhere from Mexico to Cape Horn), and the bold use of indigenous spices explores an uncharted territory—a world away from tacos and tapas. Items such as moqueca (Brazil’s famous seafood stew) and Colombia’s arepas (picture a layered tamale) join forces on a menu that reaches but does not intimidate. The wine list is 100 percent South American, with a quarter of it devoted to Malbec, arguably the new Merlot. Given all that, the independent and locally owned Wapango may dance all the way to the banco.
Westfield Chesterfield Mall (east side), 636-536-1151, www.wapango.com. Hours: 11 a.m.–10 p.m. daily.
