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Photograph courtesy of Daria de Koning
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From her Manhattan studio, Daria de Koning (dariadekoning.com) crafts jewelry reminiscent of Venice streets, Pacific reefs, and elegant architecture. A New York native, de Koning attended art school at Washington University and earned a graduate gemologist degree from the Gemological Institute of America. Her work’s been in national magazines like Marie Claire, O, The Oprah Magazine, and Lucky. The designer visits Forest Park’s Jewel Box at 1 p.m. on April 24 for a jewelry event (co-sponsored by SLM; those interested can RSVP to rsvp@dariadekoning.com), co-hosted by style editor Jan Leach.
How did you originally get into jewelry design?
I went to Wash. U., originally to become a painter, and ended up being a graphic-design major. I also took classes at Craft Alliance, where I learned new techniques… I make up a lot of stuff, but I have always taken classes that
interest me.
Being from New York, why did you choose a college in the Midwest?
Wash. U. is one of the few top schools with a separate undergraduate art school. My grandfather went to business school there. I wanted the classic campus scenario. I was very serious about graphic design and did some freelance graphic stuff on the side, but really my heart was with jewelry and metalsmithing and gemstones. After grad school, I lucked into a job, and I’ve never turned back.
What’s your typical creative process?
It depends. Sometimes I make things. Sometimes I see things. Sometimes I cut out things or draw. I’ll see a gemstone and say, “That’s a great shape,” and I’ll build a new collection… Everybody has a two-stoned earring, but what makes it special? I’m inspired by that gemstone, and that really helps build the piece.
Do other mediums influence your work?
Definitely. I’m always looking at architecture and furniture—decorative arts, especially. Even doorknobs. You look at doorknobs, and you say, “Oh, handles!” Everything is influential. I saw an iron window-covering in Italy, and that became the bracelet. Design elements of different mediums play into it.
How did your upcoming show in St. Louis come about?
My 10-year [college] reunion, frighteningly enough, is coming up, and one of my college mentors was one of the few people who said, “Don’t be crazy. You can’t keep doing graphics and prints; you have to do jewelry.” She’s still in St. Louis and a big supporter.
What’s next for you?
Doing more one-of-a-kind, crazy pieces. I’m a total stone dork. I’ll see some weird stone and think it looks like it should be part of this feather, so I’ll make this big feather brooch. I want to do a show with everything called “Elements of the Fantastic,” with unusual gems and stones…and put them into a book. That’s first on deck, and maybe the rest will follow.
