The Central West End has been a hive of activity for years, playing host to restaurants and bars and shops as far back as my memory goes.
Despite the non-stop social buzz, a few pockets of the ‘hood have managed to remain a relatively quiet oasis, like the section of Maryland from Euclid to the parking lot, which includes only a few storefronts. This area is a coveted sanctuary for patrons of the Chess Club and Brennan’s. Those looking for a livelier evening are welcome to head to Bar Louie or Bar Italia on the other side of Euclid.
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So when the long-vacant commercial space between Brennan’s and the lot, which proved too quiet for previous tenant Companion Bakery, posted a notice that a new tenant was moving in, eyebrows raised. Lester’s (4651 Maryland, 314-932-6040), a sports bar in Ladue, was setting up shop in a shady spot in the Central West End.
After much speculation as to whether or not the new sports bar would lure the lushes over from Bar Louie, Lester’s opened its doors last week and assuaged the concerned.
The space itself is nice and well-appointed. Without the nauseating bric-a-brac that usually litters the wall of sports bars, Lester’s has a Goliath marble wrap-around bar adorned with antique-bulb pendants. There are about a scrillion TV screens, both at the bar and at the tables, the latter trying their best to blend in with the tasteful framed photos on the wall.
The food is tasty, but I really hate seeing $11.50 salads on menus, especially at sports bars. My friend ordered a spectacular caveman meat plate sampler that included ribs and lightly fried chicken wings that were delightfully fatty. The onion rings could easily double and chunky bracelets.
Happy hour junkies will be glad to know that weekdays from 3–6 p.m. you can enjoy $6 appetizers, $14 buckets, $4 house wines and wells. Friday and Saturday happy hour kicks off at 9 p.m.
The place was fairly full when we were there, apparently due entirely to word of mouth. The crowd seemed decidedly more sophisticated than that of Bar Louie, which is promising. Perhaps the sleepy stretch of Maryland will remain that way.
