INSIDER TIP
Pig & Pickle Closes
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Ryan Lewis, chef-owner of Pig & Pickle in the DeBaliviere Place neighborhood, reluctantly announces the closure of the seven-month-old eatery. The last day was Sunday, May 6. Last winter, SLM’s Dave Lowry found flaws but concluded, “Pig & Pickle has stepped up gracefully to replace Atlas.” Taking over the beloved Atlas space at 5513 Pershing Avenue, Lewis knew expectations were high and admitted that “business has proven to not be as strong as we had hoped.” He is headed to Scarlett’s Wine Bar in the Central West End, where he will take over as executive chef.
HOT SPOT
Dinner with Devoti
This year, Slow Food Saint Louis is introducing a new fundraising event, The Slow Food Dinner Series, designed to expose the community to the integral relationship between chef and farmer. Each event includes a five-course family-style dinner, local beers, and paired wines. The series kicks off May 20 at J. Devoti Trattoria & Grocery on The Hill. (Owner-chef Anthony Devoti has a long-standing tradition of supporting everything that Slow Food represents.) Subsequent dinners will be held June 29 (with chef Rob Connoley) and July 19 (with chef Josh Charles). Tickets are $65 per person.
MICRORANT
Pre-cut gyro meat
Part of the experience of eating a gyro is watching the meat get shaved to order from its cone while cooking on a rotating, vertical broiler. It’s part of the show—and the enjoyment. The mystery amalgam of beef and lamb takes on a crusty crispiness for which there is no substitute. It’s not cold cuts we’re talking about here. Texture is an integral part of the dish. Pre-cutting and holding gyro meat in a steam table is a self-defeating short cut. What’s next? Microwaved meat served inside cold pita bread?
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