In University City, a pair of seasoned local restaurateurs have partnered to bring a new concept to the area. Spicy Chef (8080 Olive) debuted January 15 and features Jianghu cuisine in a casual, full-service setting.
The concept comes from Tony Liu, who brought on Chin Zhang, a previous manager at Mandarin House.
In addition to Spicy Chef, Liu has three more local restaurant openings on the horizon—and hinted at more to come.
Here’s what to know about Spicy Chef before you go.
The Concept and Menu
“The food for the concept comes from the Middle South region of China,” Zhang says. “This region is more spicy, but they are also focused on very delicate food.”
According to Zhang, the type of fare on offer originated as street food and combines Sichuan’s numbing spice, Hunan’s heat, and Guizhou’s sour kick. Chef Xuxi Wang cooks up the vibrant menu of spice-centric dishes. Highlights include Hunan-Style Stir-Fried Pork Knuckle; Chicken with Nine-Leaf Sichuan Pepper; and Yongzhou Coin-Shaped Eggs made of deep-fried hard-boiled eggs in a special chili sauce.
Choose from dozens of offerings, including appetizers, shareable specialty entrées, rice and noodles, soups, and desserts. Options range from Mapo Tofu, Kung Pao Chicken, and Tujia-Style Twice-Cooked Pork to Lemony Chicken Feet, Huaihua Pickled Pepper Frog, and Sizzling Boiling Fish.
“It’s the first time this style has landed in St. Louis, and that makes us so excited,” says Zhang, who recommends Mao’s Braised Pork Belly. The sweet and spicy Chinese dish features caramelized pork belly and aromatics that, like many dishes at Spicy Chef, pack a fragrant, fiery punch.
A liquor license is in process, with plans for beer and wine to be added to the beverage menu along with its current soft drink selection.
The Atmosphere
Spicy Chef fills the space previously occupied by The Mad Crab. Since leasing the standalone building last year, the team has transformed it into a distinctively designed 150-seat dining room inspired by the cinematic world of martial arts. The aesthetic captures the spirit of Jianghu, a term that translates to “rivers and lakes” and describes the ancient Chinese-style environments that countless fictional stories based in the Far East take place in.
“The whole design just makes you feel like you’re back in China’s Hunan province—a little bit country style with really beautiful mountain, river, and village scenery,” Zhang says, mentioning popular martial arts film Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon as a point of reference.
A straw awning on the facade sets the scene for a dining area that feels like a carefully crafted movie set. The same thatched roof-like material creates a classic Asian countryside feel throughout the interior’s divided seating sections, with wooden tables that can accommodate everyone from solo diners to groups (including a few larger tables outfitted with lazy Susans).
At the entrance, wooden placards outline the menu in hanzi, and a bamboo cart displays decorative garlic bulbs and chili peppers. Hanging basket lights, potted leafy plants, and red banners add pops of color and texture throughout the space, and there are custom wall and ceiling light fixtures.
The Backstory
Liu, who hails from Fujian, came to St. Louis in 2013, while Zhang hails from Shanghai and came to the Midwest in 1989 to study business management at Southern Illinois University Carbondale. After graduating, she lived in Atlanta for five years, working in real estate. She then moved to St. Louis, joining the restaurant group that operated The Emperor’s Palace in Chesterfield before managing Mandarin House for more than a decade. Zhang also works as a tofu maker for Gourmet Soy Foods in Granite City, Illinois.
“Tony travels a lot and loves to eat, so every single time he travels back to China, he tries all the different types of food,” Zhang says. “Whatever he loves, he brings it back to St. Louis. He has a very ideal goal to introduce all the great unique Chinese food to the Western market.”
📍 8080 Olive, University City
📞 314-801-8383
⏰ 11 a.m.–2:30 p.m. and 4:30–9 p.m. Wed–Mon
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