You’ve heard about recipes passed down from someone’s grandmother or uncle, but the history of the sope (soh-pay) goes back countless generations. It’s a foundational dish, according to Laura McNamara, who owns the second location of Brew Tulum (5090 Delmar), which opened in December. (Her husband, Alberto Juarez, opened the flagship in Tulum, Mexico, in 2018.)
Read More: Brew Tulum opens in the Delmar Maker District
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Step one is nixtamalization, an ancient procedure that converts maize into pliable masa and activates nutrients, also increasing flavor and aroma. At Brew Tulum, flattened balls of masa are cooked on a comal, and the sides are pinched to help cradle the ingredients. Next, three vegetables that are key elements of Mexican cuisine—corn, beans, and zucchini—are added to the dish. Finally, there’s a layer of green salsa, coarse-chopped white onions and Roma tomatoes, crumbled cotija cheese, a drizzle of salsa macha, and fresh Mexican cream (somewhat similar to crème fraiche).
At Brew Tulum, guests can also experience Mexican coffees and traditional foods, such as chilaquiles, enfrijoladas, and sopes. “People are eager to learn and will try something that is unfamiliar,” Juarez says. “And when I tell them that sopes are meant to be eaten with the hands, that’s what they do.”
