“Rich” is the word that will be uttered before you even get past the appetizers or salads. Yes, even the salads. It’d be challenging to find a restaurant that more consistently delivers a menu that’s the gustatory equivalent of Aida being performed on your palate.
Cottle Village Farmstead + Distillery seems a bit incongruous, situated in St. Charles County, where herds of SUVs now roam. What was originally a sprawling nursery has been transformed into 4 acres that are home to a restaurant, a distillery, and an outdoor theater. A towering forest of mature evergreens shades everything; thoughtful construction has integrated the original barn into the distillery. The farmhouse has been enlarged to provide a roomy, high-ceilinged dining area with a massive fireplace, a cool bar, and a cocktail lounge upstairs. Dark green walls, wood floors, and very comfy seating make for a place where you want to hang out and absorb the atmosphere.
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Nothing on that menu is going to shock you—there isn’t an ingredient that would have been unfamiliar to your grandmother. If you think your taste buds are going to idle through your meal, though, then you’re in for a surprise. We figured: OK, roast half chicken. Simple. What arrives is indeed that—roasted perfectly, juicy, with a crispy, salty skin—but it’s spackled with a caramel brown onion and mushroom gravy that’s almost overpowering in flavor. With a side of rosemary-flecked garlic mashed potatoes, it is what the blue-plate special at Heaven’s Diner is like.
The port wine glace does a similar gravy duty over a slab of braised short rib and is equally opulent, glossy, and syrup-thick. The meat is reduced to flaky, forkable tenderness. A bubbling side of mac and five cheeses is over-the-top lavish, a combination of beef and carbs that will have you savoring every bite.
Of the trio of cow cuts—a filet, strip, and ribeye—we ordered the last medium rare, which, sadly, was served well done. The same problem occurred with what should have been a lovely salmon filet; the fish was dry and overcooked.
And as long as we’re wearing our pouty pants, we’ll add the obligatory whining about noise: You’re more likely to have a comprehensible conversation in the front row of a concert. If you’re planning a wedding proposal or delivering your lecture on the hermeneutics of Freaky Friday, engage the outdoor seating (weather permitting) if you want to be heard.
Back to the food. Be forewarned: In addition to the richness, the Village ain’t playin’ those “Skimpy Portion Blues.” A beet and goat cheese salad is—seriously—adequate for a table of four. And if you cannot imagine a salad being rich, try this one. Spring greens are splashed with an oil of truffles and white balsamic vinegar that’s luxurious, accentuating the taste of the bright greens with a deep, fragrant unguent fattiness that’s immediately countered by the citrusy spike of lemon. Along with goat cheese crumbles and candied walnuts, this is one remarkable salad.
Probably only the version at Wright’s Tavern can equal the crab cakes at Cottle Village. Hefty chunks of lump crab, snowy and tender, are corralled with just enough herby breading to hold them in shape. They’re crispy sautéed, the flesh moist and tender, topped with a scatter of shoestring potatoes. They’re plated on flash-fried spinach and ladled with a sweet, tangy remoulade that’s just enough to complement the taste of the crab.
Fried chicken on a biscuit is an odd appetizer. Here, it works nicely, and once again, it is surprisingly rich. The biscuit is dense, buttery, and less flaky than delightfully crumbly, with a distinct sweetness. The hunk o’ chicken inside is spectacular, with a salty, crunchy crust.
The distillery was not up and running on our visit this summer; already it has local whiskey enthusiasts eager, especially given the provenance. Cottle Village’s still will be managed by the folks at Nobletons, a Union, Missouri-based distillery run by a family with roots in the whiskey-making business that date back to the 16th century. The distillery is using a time-consuming combination of new and old casks for proofing its product, meant to turn out exceptionally smooth whiskies. For now, the selection of uisce beatha at Cottle Village is splendid. The Farmstead Wheat whiskey goes into an Old Fashioned, along with Le Bon, bitters, and a simple syrup.
The small wine list puts an emphasis on mid-range white options. Otherwise, the Lamadrid Malbec is a fine, affordable accompaniment to most dishes here.
The plan for Cottle Village is an ambitious one. Outdoor seating is plentiful, and much care goes into maintaining the greenscape. A series of concerts have already brought crowds to the open-air theater, along with a children’s play area. Our server explained that the owners were motivated to use the farm as something more worthy than a car wash or bank. They’ve succeeded so far, bringing a rustic cool to the region and creating a destination for dining, sipping, and concert-going.
To keep up with the progress at Cottle Village, follow its Facebook and Instagram pages.
Cottle Village Farmstead + Distillery
📍6470 Highway N, Cottleville
📞 636-268-2123
⏰ The Tavern
4–9 p.m. Thu–Sat, 10 a.m.–2 p.m. Sun (brunch)
⏰Farmstead Distillery
4 p.m.–midnight Thu & Fri, 11 a.m.–midnight Sat & Sun
⏰ The Field
4 p.m.–10 p.m. Thu, 4–11 p.m. Fri,11 a.m.–11 p.m. Sat, 11 a.m.–9 p.m. Sun
