Review: Sultān Mediterranean serves a mix of familiar and unfamiliar Middle Eastern specialties in The Grove

×

Expand

Kevin A. Roberts

Turkish-style fattoush with pita chips

Some people believe that the hallmark of an excellent Mediterranean restaurant is its hummus—but, I contend, it’s the bread. 

To bake their naan, Sultān Mediterranean Cuisine co-owners Akram Saeed and Jenar Mohammed initially purchased a pizza oven. Disappointed with the results, they replaced it with a large tandoor. Today, chef Mohammed slaps raw dough into its fiery belly. As it clings to the walls, the dough balloons, bakes, and blisters, picking up magnificent smoky flavors and a soft but elastic texture.

Sultān is decorated with what appears to be an eclectic mix of Middle Eastern market treasures. Maroon tapestries hang from the neutral walls in each of the two dining rooms, seating about 85 people total. Rainbow-hued Moroccan glass lanterns are suspended from the ceiling. Stacks of gleaming brass cups from Kurdistan line a shelf.

That incredible naan is served with many of the mezze offerings. The fattoush is more colorful than most, with a sprinkling of ruby pomegranate seeds atop the salad of radish, tomato, onion, cucumber, and bread. The garlic and lemon in the hummus are kept in check, ensuring a mild, gentle result. A surprising amount of flavor’s been coaxed from the slow-roasted winter tomatoes, eggplant, onions, and garlic that make up the şakşuka. Rich and meaty, with a mellow sweetness, it’s perfect with the naan.

Entrées are a mix of familiar dishes, such as kebabs, dolma and gyros, as well as less common ones. The kebab options of shrimp, chicken, lamb, and ground beef are juicy but crispy around the edges, with a pleasing char. The vegan dolma is an artfully stacked and plated presentation of rice-stuffed grape leaves, plus stuffed eggplant and zucchini.

×

Expand

Kevin A. Roberts

Now for those less common dishes: Sultān pilau, a Kurdish specialty, is a mix of rice, lamb shank, almonds, walnuts, pistachio, and raisins wrapped in a large dome of phyllo. Sweet raisin sneaks into each bite, balancing the richness of the lamb and nuts. Musakhan, a Palestinian dish, resembles a pizza. A base of naan is topped with shredded chicken spiced with saffron and a good amount of citrusy sumac. Plump and comforting munto arrives as a plate full of steamed beef-and-herb dumplings, served with a garlicky yogurt sauce. The lamb shank—a huge portion, expertly cooked in garlic, olive oil, and lemon—is so tender, it barely clings to the bone.

The Turkish coffee and herbal tea, delivered on ornate brass trays in shining pots and sipped from delicate brass-and-glass cups, feel special. Each drink is perfect with one of Sultan’s desserts.

Kanafa—a pastry of delicate threads that’s stuffed with soft cheese and topped with crushed pistachio, is fun to eat. Saffron cake—yellow sponge, soaking in a pool of saffron-laced cream studded with almonds—is rich and fragrant. It pairs perfectly with the deep-black coffee for a divine end to a memorable meal.