It took just over a year for Pi Pizzeria + ¡Rico! Mexican to expand from corner shack in Glendale to a full-fledged, full-service, restaurant in Kirkwood that boasts even more menu options than before. After several days of soft-opening warm-ups, Pi+¡Rico! 2.0 will officially open its doors on Tuesday, November 9.
The original idea was to combine two of Chris Sommers’ prior concepts, Pi Pizzeria and Gringo, into a grab-and-go and delivery-based hybrid serving Pi’s pizza and salads, as well as Mexican favorites from Gringo’s menu. Several burgers were added, as well as a chicken sandwich, several types of fries, fried Brussels sprouts (pictured at right), and “Rico-cinis” (a spin on arancini). By the time the doors opened at the Glendale location, the 1,000-square-foot space (in the former Filomena’s Italian Kitchen) could satisfy most every palate, young and old.
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The new space—the former Kirkwood Brewhouse, at 10312 Manchester—boasts a 120-seat dining room, a 50-person partially covered patio, and a larger kitchen. (The jury is still out on the fate of the prior location. A decision is expected soon.)
Spearheading the new menu were executive chef Cary McDowell, who’s been with the company since 2013, and chef de cuisine David Rodriguez, who came on board at about the same time, after a long stint at his family’s restaurant, the former Pueblo Nuevo. General manager Nick Shedd, another industry vet, has been with Sommers’ group since 2015.
The new location came with a built-in smoker, which means McDowell will tinker with slow-smoked meats and barbecue. First up: full and half-slabs of St. Louis–style ribs (above left), seasoned with a “dalmation rub” (the simple salt and pepper mix favored by Texas pitmasters) and served with three sauces.
One peg up are the Rico Ribs (above right), to which McDowell adds Mike’s Hot Honey and Rico Dust, a spice blend similar to Tajin that includes chile peppers and lime.
As in prior iterations, the two-room space is roughly divided in half by a tall partition wall, partially clad in subway tile. The bar has both ample seating and TVs, including a four-TV monster screen on the back bar wall. Just inside the door is the order pickup desk and a large hot case for pizzas.
A well-balanced, classic margarita leads the beverage list, along with a blood orange option and a house-made sangria. In an unusual twist, cleanable food menus are presented at the table, but the beer, wine, and cocktail options appear on several of the house TVs and can be accessed via QR code. The lists include 24 draft beer selections, 18 wines by the glass, and a dozen margarita/margarita offshoots.
The dining room has booth seating along the perimeter walls and floor tables. The tables are all on casters, which can be easily (and silently) combined to make creating a 10-top a breeze. As with prior iterations, the kitchen is open but artistically screened with large wrought-iron panels.
Wall decorations—framed prints, an EAT sign, and a mounted hammerhead shark—have been procured or borrowed from existing or former Pi restaurants. The maroon walls were painted a lighter, more neutral color to better blend with barnwood on the walls. Lighting is kept at mid-level intensity, striking just the right aesthetic. Even more striking is the sound level: By some strange feat of acoustical alchemy, even when the house is full, table guests can hear one another and the music.
McDowell hopes the new space will lend itself to family gatherings (as Kirkwood Brewhouse and the previous Winfield’s Gathering Place did before) and that the food offerings will make the space feel even more convivial.
The only dilemma? For anyone familiar with the food at Pi or Gringo, making a selection might prove difficult, as favorites (or forgotten favorites) are all front and center.
One fan of the former Pi+¡Rico! loved how the menu offered a little something for everybody. The 2.0 version adds a full bar, dining room, large patio, table service, and smoked meats.
“I’m pretty sure we’re onto something here,” says McDowell.
