Photography by Kevin A. Roberts
Although some might think oysters and Illinois river towns make strange bedfellows, Broadway Oyster Bar owner John Johnson does not. In March, he and chef Brad Hagen are expanding upriver to seafood-starved Grafton. Asked whether the possibility of flooding gave them pause, they had an ingenious response, no surprise from the duo responsible for monthly food festivals.
How did you end up at the Broadway Oyster Bar? I had been in the painting business all my life and didn’t get into restaurants until I was in my forties. The Broadway Oyster Bar owner was relocating and mentioned that to me when I was painting his house, so I would tell my brother-in-law, who was in the business. It never got that far… I’d fallen into the painting business when I was 16 and was looking to fall out of it.
How old is Broaday Oyster Bar? Since 1978, but it was Dennis Connolly who transformed it from a strictly oysters-and-boiled-eggs joint to a full-fledged Cajun restaurant, the first in the area, to the best of my knowledge. We are the longest-tenured owner, at 18 years, but we still use Dennis’ recipes.
But you’ve expanded the menu. Stylistically, we added more seafood in the past few years. Cajun/Creole is great, but it’s limiting. Some folks just don’t like it, others think it too spicy. Seafood broadens the customer base. Now there are several fresh seafood specials per night, when in the past there was maybe one.
Why does Broadway Oyster hold a food festival every month? There’s no better way to build our brand. In January it’s an Oyster and Crab Leg Festival, because Gulf oysters—our mainstay—are at their best that month. April/May is crawfish season, and so on. One month we do a po’boy festival, and of course there’s The Best of BOB, where we showcase the 12 best-selling specials from the prior year.
Was marketing a conscious effort? I believe in one-on-one communication. I’m here a lot. I hire personable front-of-house people, I’m heavily into social media, and I respond to every review. Those things pay off over time. That’s how you make friends and attract customers.
How important is restaurant marketing? It’s crucial. For instance, I’m here for all Cardinal home games, handing out chances to win two tickets behind the plate. It gives me an opportunity to engage people, tell them about anything new, thank them for patronizing the local guy. Then I stand at the door and hand out free bottles of water to people as they leave, engaging them once again.
How has Broadway Oyster Bar not just survived, but flourished in the wake of Ballpark Village? We’re completely different—the food, atmosphere, attitude—and people in St. Louis have a tendency to be loyal. Those who have been coming here for years aren’t going to stop because there’s a new guy in town. And we’re open until 3 a.m., so we’ve become an industry hangout—a lot of them come from Ballpark Village. We give them all industry cards, offering a 20 percent discount, anytime, seven days a week. Industry people are great, plus they tend to drive new business.
Where did the quirkiness originate? Or did that happen by accident? It’s always been that way. Whatever goes up on the wall stays on the wall.
What’s the most unusual artifact? Some guy had a cake shipped here from Haydel’s, the legendary New Orleans bakery, and we served it to him. When he left, he asked if we could mount the box on the wall, and we said, "What the hell, sure." It’s still there.
How many renovations has the bar had over the years? Again, I consider myself a curator here… I don’t want to change what the regulars are used to, but I will add on, like adding onto the patio and building the new room—things that any customer, new or old, can appreciate.
What are the biggest sellers? Crawfish enchiladas and fish tacos. You’d think it might be gumbo or a po' boy, but that’s what the servers recommend. And because of that, Sysco told us we go through more flour tortillas than many of the Mexican restaurants in town.
Tell us about BOB’s new dining room. A few months ago, we added a 50-seat dining room that we decorated with knickknacks donated by regulars. It has an opaque yellow-tinted roof that makes it look bright even on cloudy days. We just started a fast-casual lunch in that room; we call it “BOB on the Fly,” for diners in a hurry or on a budget. Lunch in less than an hour is the new lunch.
You added more rest rooms there, too. There’s a memorable detail in the men’s room that shouldn’t be missed. We’ll leave it at that.
When did the live music come into play? It was here before my time. Thirty years ago, Dennis Connolly approached the Soulard Blues Band, asked what night they practiced, was told Monday, and they’ve been practicing at the Oyster Bar every Monday night since.
So why open an offshoot in Grafton? The Big Kahuna was closing, and my chef, Brad—who’s from Jerseyville—had always wanted to bring his food to Jersey County. He’s the majority partner; he’ll oversee both kitchens, and his wife will manage the place. All that made sense to me. The name Grafton Oyster Bar may not be original, but the association with us is there.
What does the place look like? It’s two stories tall, with a patio and balconies on both levels, 175 seats total. There’s a general store on the first floor that services boaters and the 200 boat slips. The restaurant is up top. The building is literally on the river.
What’s on the menu there? It will be similar but smaller than downtown, but we’ve added some local items like buffalo and frog legs. Some different sandwiches like a cochon de lait and maybe a catfish reuben, which is delicious. Brad’s uncle makes some killer catfish fritters, so look for Uncle Dewey’s Fritters on that menu, too. There will be a dozen draft beers, plus bottles, and cans, which, by the way, are cool again.
Will there be seafood festivals in Grafton? On alternate weekends than in St. Louis, but yes. We’re developing dedicated special nights, like steak night. There’s enough going on that we intend to remain open year-round, closed on Mondays and Tuesdays.
Who is your customer? A lot of our customer base comes from that area already, so we see it as a destination restaurant for residents of Alton, Jerseyville, and Edwardsville. There are boaters, bicyclists, bikers, and everyone who travels the River Road. And we are the food and beverage caterer for the Hakuna Matata, the 60-foot double-decker excursion boat docked there.
What happens when it floods? Our landlord has a pontoon boat, and when it floods we’ll ferry customers out to the restaurant, which floats. We think that alone will be a reason to come. People who are into restaurant experiences will be all over it. Can you imagine a party that’s BYO boat?
