PHOTOGRAPHY BY KEVIN A. ROBERTS
We dug this new place from Michael and Tara Gallina, located in the former Bar Les Freres space on Wydown, for myriad reasons: It’s sophisticated and upscale, with that smooth Euro-cool atmosphere that you recognize instantly. That aside, one of the more unforgettable meals we had there was a fried chicken cordon bleu, which sounds like the love child of Paula Deen and Paul Bocuse but tastes like spectacular. Stuffed with gruyere and smoked bacon that spill out under the knife, as well as a sauce sharp with moutarde d’Orleans, it’s a circus of taste and texture. With the side of roasted mushrooms, it was autumn on a plate.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY KEVIN A. ROBERTS
At least a couple of times each year, it’s pleasurable to make a small road trip for dinner. Nothing extreme, like the time we drove to Terre Haute, Indiana, for a slice of cheese at the incomparable Wise Pies. Just maybe an hour or so to make it feel like it’s a destination. For us, Edwardsville is a good distance. Once there, we dropped in at 1818 Chophouse, which is swank but not stuffy and has the liveliest bar in the burg. The steaks and other dishes are fine, but what made the trip worthwhile was a mushroom bisque. The woody flavor of wild mushrooms is concentrated in a creamy velouté that embodies spoon-licking goodness.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY KEVIN A. ROBERTS
Two indelible memories at this West County eatery: 1.) The dry-aged ribeye. If you’ve ever wondered if this aging process is worth it, the answer here is deliciously obvious. It ain’t what you’d call a bargain, true; it is, however, an experience for which it’s worth saving your pennies. 2.) The view. Yes, the view from the dining room is pastoral, looking out on a small, buolic pond and woods and lawns. What caught our attention, however, was on the other side of Clayton Road, across the parking lot. It’s not that impressive—just a field, bordered by trees, sloping gently away. There was a harrow parked on one side. It caught our attention, though. It was a glimpse into the past, when this part of West County was almost completely rural. Pastures and fields and woodlots have mostly disappeared; subdivisions have replaced them. That scene, though, was a reminder of the time when the area was farms and forest. And in the sunset when we saw it, it was bittersweet and beautiful.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY KEVIN A. ROBERTS
Seriously, how many places can you dine in St. Louis where black tie or a three-quarter length cocktail dress wouldn’t be out of place? Well, Taco Bell, obviously. But if you want to get your formal on, Casa Don Alfonso’s the place to do it. Just saunter through the front door, and bathe in what seems like a crystal-powered light. Everything sparkles, from that magnificent marble-topped kitchen to the luminous copper pans on the walls. If it wasn’t for the aroma of roasting pizza, you could probably smell the class here. We sampled that pizza, along with and it was all wonderful. What we remembered most, though, was the atmosphere of this thoroughly upscale gem.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY KEVIN A. ROBERTS
Deviled eggs are basically the Angostura bitters In the Manhattan of a great meal. You don’t think about 'em, but if they’re not there, something’s somehow missing. Some local places have some fairly excellent satanic half-spheres, most notably those paprika-dusted beauties at Southern, or Juniper's spicy kickin’ hard-boiled eggs. This year, we were introduced to another contender at Black Sheep, with its Bloody Mary Deviled Eggs. Old Bay Seasoning is the magic ingredient.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVE LOWRY
6. El Guanaco
After opening at the beginning of the pandemic and initially staying under the radar, this unassuming spot in Overland quickly became a destination for authentic Central American fare. The atmosphere ain’t fancy, but the composition of a plate of whole fried snapper, rice, beans, and pink pickled onions was classy and might have been the best fish we ate this year.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY KEVIN A. ROBERTS
7. Jalea
This was a year for “Didn’t See That Coming” in the restaurant business locally. We were not expecting oxtail soup and goat curry at Main Street Diner in St. Peters, in a place where bacon and eggs and pancakes are the big draw. Friday nights, though, the menu’s seized and goes full-on Jamaica. And Jiminy Cricket, crunchy chapulines showed up at La Oaxaquena, along with banana leaf-wrapped tamales we’ve never found in other local Mexican eateries. But the biggest surprise of the year goes to Jalea. Old St. Charles is many things; a destination for Peruvian dining hasn’t been one of them. But Jalea serves up exquisite, authentic fare: ceviche, arroz con pollo, yucca fries, plantain chips... It's one of the best surprises we had this year.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVE LOWRY
8. Top Sushi
“Yeah, another sushi joint” was our initial reaction when we heard about Top Sushi opening in Creve Coeur. After all, the region has a lot of sushi spots, with many being average. We expected the same here. Yet we were immediately happy to see the space: small, cozy, with a classic little bar in front where you can watch your sushi made. We opted for the sashimi—and boy, it was sliced perfectly, with attention paid to the grain of the fish. First-class. Now, it’s a new go-to for sushi.
9. The Wine Merchant + Starrs
Courtesy of The Wine Merchant
On a blistering cold day last winter, we did a cheese crawl, visiting some of the premiere cheesemongers in town. At The Wine Merchant, cheesemonger Trent Pappan sliced a leaf of L’Etivaz (pictured at right), a cheese curdled over an open flame from cow’s milk grazing on grasses and wild onions that tastes like both. It was incredibly good, and Pappan showed us a Hospices de Beaune Mersault to match it. About a dozen other varieties followed at several places, all of them good and distinctive enough that we could keep them straight. But the highlight of the day was a Roquefort from Carles, France, which we found at Starrs. It was simultaneously crumbly and moist, stunningly pungent, with that incredible aroma that’s essential to the flavor of bleu cheese.
PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF WALLY'S
10. Wally’s
To stand at the door of Wally’s, as we did this summer, is to behold so much that is great about America. Seriously, an entire jerky emporium. And bear in mind: This is a gas station with its own line of jewelry. Its own collection of Bundt pans. Restrooms are spotless, even cozy. The brisket sandwiches, the house-made pastries, pizza, the Willy Wonka-worthy collection of candy. We asked why there wasn’t any seating area and were told they might add some in the future. If they did, though, people like us might just move in.
