There is no comestible more suggestive of autumn than roasted oyster mushrooms: the woody texture, the aroma of fallen leaves, the taste of Earth beginning to chill. The side of oyster mushrooms doesn’t just complement the chicken cordon bleu at Bistro La Floraison; it’s amazing in its own right. It’s a season concentrated on your fork—intense, evocative. It’s odd that a scatter of caramel brown fungus could be that memorable, but it is, even in a place that has its share of fine dining.
The new bistro on Wydown presents itself as a charming harborage of French food and wine, and it largely succeeds. After much anticipation, Michael and Tara Gallina opened it this summer in the former Bar Les Frères space in Clayton. The bistro’s exterior, with arches and balustrades, is early 20th century neo-Moorish, from that period when smoking jackets and tasseled lounging caps were all the rage. Inside, there’s a high ceiling and a couple of small dining areas. It’s small; maybe 40 diners can be seated, including at the compact, attractive bar. (We were seated less than an arm’s length from the host stand.) Beautiful marble-top tables are roughly the size of a large pizza—they’re instantly overcrowded. There’s one long wooden table for groups; otherwise, forget about bringing a crowd.
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In true bistro fashion, the menu is limited. A party of four can cover it—and should. Every offering is worthwhile. Take the Parisian gnocchi: the pâte à choux is creamy, squeezed into tubby nubbins that are boiled to the requisite puffiness, with a hint of possibly Parmesan and Dijon mustard. These pillows of happiness are served in a restrained puddle of olive oil dotted with corn kernels, chanterelles, and demi-sec tomatoes, with enough moisture to accentuate the sweetness. They might taste more of Puglia than Paris, but boy, are they wonderful.
King salmon is poached with olive oil to create magical results. The texture’s more like a firm flan than fish. The taste is exquisite, the dish’s sauce vierge, classic. Fresh tomatoes, basil, and possibly a spritz of lemon add a balance of acidity, along with a decidedly British touch of parsley.
Little bricks of scalloped potato pave almost outshine the accompanying short ribs. Pressed into a mold before roasting, the top has a pleasant chewiness; underneath, it’s all carbohydrate creamy smooth. The ribs are braised to the proper and succulent softness; a cognac jus flavored with peppercorns lends another layer of taste to the meat.
A dramatic, rewarding presentation of chicken cordon bleu starts with a substantial portion of fried golden breast. Smoked bacon and gruyère do their part, coiled inside the chicken, a tangy lava flow of gruyère spills; smoked bacon adds its woodsy aroma. The sauce is sharp, edged with moutarde d’Orleans that slices through the richness of the dish. Those autumnal oyster mushrooms, roasted delectably, are alongside.
A country-style pâté with walnuts and Bing cherries is splendid, but don’t miss the bistro’s savory French onion financiers. The half-dollar-size “muffins” are dense, flavored with almond, thyme oil, and Comté cheese. The workday’s end in France is signaled by the l’heure de l’apero, when just a couple of appetizer bites smoothes the way toward supper. Do just that with these tiny golden gems and a glass of Mourvèdre Bandol, and you’ll feel more French than Coco Chanel in a beret. You’re out of luck if you want wine that doesn’t come with a Gallic accent; alternatively, if you can’t find a vintage in this lovely list to complement dinner, then you are le balourd.
Rising prices have occasioned some comments of late. “Bistro” implies an informal diner, both in atmosphere and price point. Both here are decidedly upscale, though. A tomato salad is always worthwhile, especially here, with a drift of whipped goat cheese and a basil pistou, but is it worth $18? This isn’t the place for a casual meal for most diners.
Bistro La Floraison is, however, a technically precise demonstration of French cooking, a cool neighborhood spot—and a place where, in those mushrooms, you can celebrate autumn itself.
