A historic Hill building is getting a second act, thanks to three restaurateurs eager to build their own legacy in the space.
Marconi Mercato (2030 Marconi)—from partners Joe Smugala, Carlos Hernandez, and Brian McBride—is now open in the original Amighetti’s space. The trio is excited to bring to life a mixed-use market and restaurant concept, something they feel will fill a void in the neighborhood that they’ve called home for several years. (Smugala and Hernandez are also involved in several other restaurants on or near the Hill: they own Collina Eatery, El Milagro Azteca, and GastroPIT-STL, and Smugala’s a partner at Carnivore on the Hill, along with Mike Lutker.)
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Part café, part market, and part full-service restaurant, Marconi Marcato offers something for everyone, whether it’s a coffee and grab-and-go sandwich during breakfast hours, provisions to prepare a meal at home, or a sit-down dining experience for lunch and dinner.
“We’d been wanting to do something in this building for a long time, and when some good friends purchased it, we talked about doing a number of things there,” says Smugala. “We ended up with two concepts: an Italian style market and a full-service restaurant. The idea is not to compete with DiGregorio’s, Viviano’s, Milo’s, or Lorenzo’s. They all do what they do well. We just wanted to offer things you can’t get at other places on The Hill. Not many places around here have the things that we offer.”
Beginning Monday, November 11, Marconi Mercato’s market will be open 7 a.m.–8 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and 7 a.m.–9 p.m. Friday and Saturday. The restaurant and bar’s hours are 11 a.m.–10 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m.–11 p.m. Friday and Saturday, and 11 a.m.–8 p.m. Sunday.
Here’s what to know before you go.
The Atmosphere
Marconi Mercato is divided into three distinct spaces: a front market (which includes a coffee bar, tabletop pastry case, butchery counter, and shelves stocked with Italian grocery items), a middle room (which consists of table seating and a bar), and a main dining room (at the rear of the building).
The partners were mindful of honoring the historic details of the space while putting a modern twist on the room. Beautiful hardwood floors, old architectural details, and vintage shelving contrast with contemporary pale sage and rust-colored paint and midcentury-inflected tables and chairs.
The space’s most striking detail is its light; each room has black-silled windows that are just shy of floor-to-ceiling. The windows open outward, allowing fresh air and the hustle and bustle of the neighborhood and nearby St. Ambrose Catholic Church and School to fill the room with life.
The Market
Smugala, Hernandez, and McBride always knew they wanted a mixed-use concept with a market component—something that would harken back to the stores they grew up going to as kids.
“We all grew up with these little confectionaries or a place on the corner where you could go after school and grab candy,” says Smugala. “That’s already happening here; on school days, the place fills up with kids from St. Ambrose.”
Candy is but one small part of the market, however. The partners have created a small but mighty Italian goods shop, filled with items such as dried pastas (both imported and local), sauces, olive oils, salad dressing, cheeses, and fresh bread from Marconi Bakery, Pete’s Italian Baking Company, and Union Loafers. A small frozen foods section (including gelato from Gelato Di Riso) and dairy case are also fully stocked.
Smugala and his partners are also proud to partner with Kenrick’s Meats & Catering for their butcher counter. Cuts are delivered fresh daily, and customers are able to order anything from Kenrick’s portfolio for next-day delivery.
Additionally, the market side of the business runs breakfast and coffee service. Grab-and-go breakfast sandwiches and freshly baked danish, muffins, and other pastries are available for those looking to have a quick but satisfying bite on the go.
The Restaurant + Bar
Hernandez led the menu development for Marconi Mercato’s full-service dining – an endeavor that took nearly two years and multiple iterations to finally nail down. What he, Smugala, and McBride landed on is a menu that spans Italy’s different regions and emphasizes cicchetti, or the Italian version of Spanish tapas.
“I love French and Italian food in general, but for here, the focus is totally on Italy,” says Hernandez. “I did a lot of research and came up with over one hundred menu items before choosing the best of the best to make up the menu.”
Customers can nosh on small plates such as freshly baked focaccia generously dusted with Parmigiano Reggiano and served alongside whipped basil butter with fresh herbs or fried artichokes with fresh ricotta and a balsamic drizzle. For a fuller meal, guests can opt for the fresh pasta, courtesy of local Midwest Pasta Company in styles such as the bucatini cacio e pepe. Burgers, paninis, and salads are for the more casual diner, while those who want to have a full dining experience can enjoy dishes such as branzino piccata, chicken confit, or a prime New York Strip. And for dessert, Hernandez is adamant that no one leaves without having at least a few bites of the chocolate olive oil cake, served with stracciatella gelato from Gelato Di Riso.
Hernandez is pleased with the initial offerings, but he’s even more excited with his right-hand man in the kitchen. Mario Sanfillipo, longtime chef at the recently shuttered LoRusso’s Cucina, is now helping him run the kitchen and is bringing his undeniable culinary firepower to the table.
In addition to the food menu, cocktails also lean Italian, with offerings such as spritzes; an elderflower, vodka and aperol libation called the Brezza Floreale; an Italian riff on a daiquiri named Carciofo Tropicale; and a handful of mocktails. Beer and wine are also available.
The Backstory
Smugala first began working with Hernandez at J. Smugs GastroPit on the Hill. The pair instantly clicked and went on to form a partnership that would lead to such restaurants as Pit Stop (which became Collina Eatery earlier this year), GastroPIT-STL (the descendant of J. Smugs GastroPit), and El Milagro Azteca.
Joining forces with McBride, they were able to yet again expand their growing restaurant group with Marconi Mercato, which they hope will appeal to a range of diners and shoppers with its wide array of offerings.
“We’re not looking to compete with or take away from the other established places in the neighborhood,” says Smugala. “We just want to bring something new and different.”
