This article first appeared in the November 2023 issue of St. Louis Magazine under the title, “Legendary Stuff.”
When Ivy Café (14 N. Meramec) opened in Clayton last summer for breakfast and lunch, owner Julie Keane had conjured a tagline of “coffee house by day, wine house by night.” Last month, her cheery 40-seater opened for dinner, legitimizing the tagline and piquing the interest of anyone in search of an inspired meal.
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Bolstered by a 25-item, basic-to-Brunello wine list (and a compendium of cocktails nearly that size), Ivy offers evening comestibles that include barramundi ceviche, a lump crab and caviar tartine, and The Carondelet (a baked, stuffed, vegan eggplant dish that can stand up to winter’s heartier appetites).
Keane hollows out an eggplant from Double Star Farms; sautés the flesh with fresh herbs, garlic, pearl onions, and champagne vinegar; then combines it with tricolor quinoa. The ingredients are layered back into the shell, along with an heirloom tomato romesco sauce. After baking, the eggplant is topped with a savory cashew yogurt, microgreens, more fresh herbs, and sunflower and pomegranate seeds.
In Keane’s mind, the dish checks all boxes: “Besides me just loving eggplant, it’s beautiful, tasty, healthy, vegan.” she says.
