Eclipse restaurant has reopened in the Moonrise Hotel, with executive chef Donald “DC” Cross creating a new menu that brings together influences from Southern cuisine, the Caribbean, and other cooking traditions.
Cross became executive chef in March, with his predecessor, Cameron “CJ” Settle, moving to a new role managing food and beverage. Cross learned a variety of cuisines from around the world early in his career, with stints in his birthplace of Miami, as well as New York City, Houston, New Orleans, and St. Louis.
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For Cross, a period working with KT Ayers at The Purple Martin was pivotal. “She pushed me a little bit more into the creative aspect of things—just doing my own thing, letting me explore, getting confidence,” he says. Cross later became executive chef at The Purple Martin before moving on to The Copper Pig as sous chef. “I got to learn a lot,” he says. “Nhat [Nguyen, The Copper Pig’s owner] is a wizard as far as fusion and pulling things together, meshing a lot of things.”
As plans to reopen Eclipse took shape, the team aimed to forge a new identity, says Settle, which called for a completely new menu concept. “We just wanted a fresh start,” Settle says. “We’re gonna reopen? Let’s do it right. Let’s do it differently.” Cross got to work developing the menu, then reworked it, tweaking over and over. “This menu has been changed at least 30 times,” he says. “There was a moment when CJ came in and it was like, ‘Alright, write it down. You’re done.’”
The menu draws on the influences that Cross has picked up throughout his career, and he’s clearly skilled at blending cuisines, ingredients, and techniques. He talks about his love of Southern cuisine, but he’s also passionate about raising the profile of Caribbean food. “Pushing the envelope a little bit further is what I’m really trying to do with Caribbean food,” Cross says. “There are a couple of chefs out there modernizing Caribbean food, and right now I just want to be a contributor to that.”
The menu’s Blast Off section alone is worth exploration. One highlight is the Mini Diablo Lobster Tacos, infused with a smoky heat from chipotle and New Mexican chiles. The lobster is crammed into crunchy squid ink tortillas along with mango puree, avocado mousse, and micro cilantro. The Steak Tostadas are in a similar category: bite-size tostada shells topped with espresso-rubbed strip steak, a Cuban black bean purée, cotija cheese, avocado mousse, lime, and cilantro slaw.
Keeping with the spicy theme, the Nashville Hot Calamari is exactly as described. The deep-fried rings of calamari are piled high, topped with pickled green tomatoes, and served on a bed of a classic Southern comeback sauce. The Smoked Curry Ribs are a standout: After four hours of cooking, the curry rub imbues the ribs with a deep, earthy spice, the meat peeling off the bone with gratifying ease. Mango and pineapple chutney adds a tangy sweetness, while Cross’ “cocobama” sauce—coconut milk-based twist on Alabama white sauce—provides a rich, creamy layer of flavor and texture.
Among the entrées, the whole fried snapper is a tour of Caribbean flavor. The fish is deep-fried and plated atop a bed of diri kole—Haitian red beans and rice, richly flavored with Scotch bonnets and warming cloves. The snapper is served with a side of pikliz, a spicy pickled vegetable condiment, as well as a pickled pineapple tartar sauce. Sweet, plump fried plantains round out the dish.
The chef takes particular pride in the Jerk Lamb Chops, which are marinated for a day in jerk brine (including ginger, allspice, Scotch bonnet, and more) and then spend another three days in a jerk marinade. The lamb chops are paired with an assortment of flavors from sides including a pineapple risotto, sweet potato and Scotch bonnet purée, beet and mint puree, asparagus, and fried plantains. “I don’t get impressed too much with the food I cook,” Cross says. “But I will say, when I bit into that lamb…”
The rooftop at Moonrise is also open again, and Eclipse has just launched weekend brunch service. The brunch menu includes a few items from the dinner menu, along with such specialties as the Cuban Benedict, Tres Leches French Toast, Cafecito Steak and Eggs, Jerk Chicken and Waffles, and the Delmar Hot Brown (a spin on the Kentucky Hot Brown).
