CLASSIC DISHES
POT PIE: Piccadilly at Manhattan
Yes, the chicken pot pie is huge—and a best seller. Full of flavor, with the crispy crust a fine contrast, it’s therapy for anyone traumatized by frozen contents of wee aluminum pans. There’s a short rib version, too, and a seafood version served every Friday. 7201 Piccadilly.
Find the best food in St. Louis
Subscribe to the St. Louis Dining In and Dining Out newsletters to stay up-to-date on the local restaurant and culinary scene.
BEEF STROGANOFF: Astoria Restaurant
Although this Russian dish bid farewell to its American heyday in the 1960s, Astoria has kept the classic on the menu for the simple reason that it’s a stunningly delicious old-school staple well-deserving of a comeback. 12949 Olive.
MEATLOAF: Farmhaus
Meatloaf is the American appetite’s security blanket; rarely does this humble yet glorious pâté completely satisfy unless Mom made it. She’s now apparently got a side gig in the kitchen at Farmhaus, where the bacon-wrapped brick of Mark Schewe’s farm raised beef (when available) is impossibly tender, topped with a reduction of Pappy’s barbecue sauce that tastes like home. 3257 Ivanhoe.
BRAISED POT ROAST: Russell’s on Macklind
Few things are more American than pot roast, and Russell’s knocks it up a peg with a red-wine reduction, buttermilk whipped potatoes, herb roasted carrots, and horseradish cream. 5400 Murdoch.
PORK CHOP: The Block
A seared pork chop is cut and cooked to perfection—perhaps no surprise at the Webster favorite, where meats are butchered in house. What takes it to the next level are the embellishments: roasted yukon gold potatoes, green beans, roasted peppers, apple butter, and a spicy honey glaze. The resulting chop is ideal for date night or Sunday family supper. 146 W. Lockwood.
SHEPHERD’S PIE: Scottish Arms
This take on the classic dish blends ground lamb and beef with root vegetables, topped with whipped potatoes, cheddar, and Parmesan. It’s no coincidence that this combination of flavors and textures is ideal for warming the bones, offering sustenance in defiance of winter’s cold, dark nights. 8 S. Sarah.
ROASTED CHICKEN: Louie
Who would think a superb roast chicken would come out of a kitchen offering mostly Italian food? Regular customers at Louie, the popular spot tucked in DeMun, know. Crispy, shiny bronze skin encloses boneless but amazingly moist meat. Nestled inside a fan of sautéed rapini with a ladle of irresistible chicken jus, it just might be the best two-ingredient dish in St. Louis. 706 DeMun.
DEVILED EGGS: Polite Society
The devil’s in the details at Polite Society when it comes to the eggs—the deviled ones, at least. A touch of trout roe for saltiness, a light shower of fried capers for tart and crisp, and a light drift of cayenne bring it home. 1923 Park.
TURKEY LEG: Gobblestop Smokehouse
Friday’s your Leg Day—which means you’re tucking into a smoked, marinated turkey trotter here. It’s meaty, rich, and redolent, with slowly infused hardwood perfume. The dish is the perfect combination of primal feast and sophisticated dining—the leg delectable, the specialty sauces an example of this joint’s talent elevating smoking and barbecue to fine art. 1227 Castillon Arcade Plaza.
MAC AND CHEESE
Salt + Smoke and Big Sky Café (tie)
Mac and cheese, the edible equivalent of a bear hug, appears to be a simple marriage of noodles and cheese. At Salt + Smoke, the White Cheddar Cracker Mac is made with the addition of cream instead of milk, whisked into the béchamel base, exponentially upping the cozy-richness factor. It’s topped with Ritz crumbles that taste like browned butter. And at Big Sky, a full-bodied cheddar cheese with pleasing bite, aromatic sage, and smoked bacon adds big but familiar flavors. Topped with toasted panko, it’s also available gluten-free. Multiple locations; 47 S. Old Orchard.
BISCUITS AND GRAVY: The Biscuit Joint
These light and airy biscuits hold their own under whichever of the rich gravies you choose: the classic with breakfast sausage and maple syrup, the roasted chicken with paprika oil, or the local mushroom and sage. 2649 Washington Ave.
GRILLED CHEESE: Bowood by Niche
The contrast between the crisp cheddar crust outside the sourdough bread and the three melty cheeses inside (Havarti, American, and brie) makes this a grown-up version of a childhood favorite, perfect for the whimsical yet elegant garden setting. 4605 Olive St.
FISH AND CHIPS: Dressel’s
The Welsh-inspired American pub takes this classic dish very seriously, using certified sustainably caught Norwegian haddock. The very generous serving of beer-battered fish comes with housemade potato chips or fries plus piquant tartar and pickles. 419 N. Euclid Ave.
QUICHE: The Key Bistro
At the heart of a menu celebrating St. Louis’ rich French influence, the quiche is a standout thanks to both its flaky pastry crust and the house blend of cheeses that amplifies fillings including fresh spinach or bacon and onions. 5700 Lindell Blvd.
SOUPS
FRENCH ONION SOUP: Café Provencal
While we appreciate the many interpretations of Famous-Barr’s famous onion soup, we prefer the brothier version at this beloved Kirkwood bistro. Thickened only with yellow onions, it’s served blast-furnace hot in a clay crock under a melted blanket of Swiss cheese and capped with Parmesan. 427 S. Kirkwood.
TURKEY CHILI: Sportsman’s Park
A joint must have longevity to slap “famous” on a menu item. With 48 years under its belt, Sportsman’s Park is as much a comforting staple in Ladue as its dark and nearly beanless turkey chili, which devotees gussy up with cheese, onions, sour cream, and jalapeños. 9901 Clayton.
Read More: The 25 best soups in St. Louis
POTATO SOUP: Annie Gunn’s
Chef Lou Rook and his staff prove that perfect execution can transcend simplicity. The harmony of the creamy base, the al dente bite of the large dice, the salty crunch of bacon, and the bright punch of chives make for more satisfaction than you might expect from the sum of its parts. 16806 Chesterfield Airport Rd.
RAMEN: Nudo House and Menya Rui (tie)
The Classic Nudo ramen at Nudo House always steals the show, even among more inventive broths, such as the Shroomed Out (with mushroom broth) and Curry Up! (with a yellow curry base). The classic ramen’s rich tonkotsu broth, tender chasu pork, and black garlic warms and delights, proving that traditional can be best when it comes to comfort food. At Menya Rui, the made-from-scratch noodles grab headlines and keep customers happily slurping dishes like the best-selling pork shoyu ramen. Nudo House: 11423 Olive and 6105 Delmar; Menya Rui: 3453 Hampton.
PHO
For a soup that will comfort you even in your darkest hours, order the Pho Dac Biet. The dish combines soft rice noodles with an array of beef—flank, tendon, tender brisket, beef balls, and tripe—served in a rich, savory broth. 8396 Musick Memorial.
HOT POT: Tai Ke Shabu Shabu
Start with a pot of bubbling broth, and order whatever you like from a selection of meats, seafood, and vegetables. Next, put your food in the steaming hot soup, give it a minute or two to cook, and then fish it out and enjoy. It’s warming, fun, and perfect for facilitating conversation. 9626 Olive.
LOBSTER BISQUE: Asador Del Sur
Lobster bisque can be a disappointment (too salty, too thick, not lobster-y enough) or a godsend. At Asador del Sur, co-owner Maria Giamportone makes the stock using whole lobsters (including the tomalley); thickens it with rice (not flour); adds tarragon, brandy, and half and half; then adds chunks of lobster meat. It’s no wonder her husband, Daniel, who has sampled bisque across the world, says it is the best he’s ever had. 7322 Manchester.
FRIED CHICKEN
St. Louis holds down an intriguing corner of the regional picnic blanket when it comes to fried chicken. We’re far from the Dixie-centric middle of this golden-brown apotheosis of the Southern palate. Here, outstanding Crackling Capon can be harder to find than an “ing” suffix in Biloxi. So treasure the standouts, where hot oil baptizes the bird and two-napkin lusciousness and joy emerges.
GRACE MEAT + THREE: At Rick and Elisa Lewis’ restaurant in the Grove, choose from original or spicy, served with pickles and the options of sides such as garlic mashed potatoes, collard greens, slaw. mac ‘n’ cheese, or something more unusual: honey roasted carrots, Brussels sprouts, and onion, topped with sunflower seed pesto. And get this: Grace offers fried chicken skin, a taste of the salty sublime. 4270 Manchester.
KING EDWARDS: Batter-fried clucker pays homage to the rich, golden enrobement from a pre-fryer dip in a creamy slurry that produces fried chicken that’s hot, messy, and down-home simple. 8654 Watson.
SOUTHERN: This Midtown destination is a mandatory stop for haute hot hen. Available in grades from tingly to incandescent, that oil-glazed Nashvegas magic has ’em lined up. Only a couple deviled eggs can cool things off, just long enough to tuck into another thigh—or two. 3108 Olive.
PORTER’S FRIED CHICKEN: At the Maplewood staple, acolytes wait in line for one of the two-dozen seats, and more come for takeout buckets. (Cognoscenti go for the fried livers and gizzards.) 3628 S. Big Bend.
HODAK’S: The legendary South City haunt defines Great Fried Chicken for many in St. Louis, with a thickened batter that encases every piece. 2100 Gravois.
GUS’S FRIED CHICKEN: The Maplewood outpost serves a Memphis take on spectacularly plated Henny Penny, with just a touch of spice under a caramel-colored crust that holds the heat—and flavor—in the meat. An overnight marinade and a touch of pepper are part of the magic, along with both fried pickles and green tomatoes. 7434 Manchester.
OFF TRACK SALOON: “Eat the Chicken, Drink the Turkey Wednesdays” pretty much defines the vibe, where bikers and businesspeople comingle, and a half chicken gets the hot oil just long enough to render a toasty crust over luscious meat. 7301 S. Broadway.
SOUL FOOD
About a decade ago, Cathy Jenkins and her family embarked on a yearlong trip across the country, sampling the diverse delights that define America’s food regions. From New Mexican green chiles to Philadelphia cheesesteaks, Jenkins fell in love with food in all of its forms and came back inspired to translate what she saw into a restaurant that would transport St. Louis diners on a culinary voyage without leaving town. That storefront, Cathy’s Kitchen (250 S. Florissant), would have classic soul food dishes, sure, but the restaurant was, and remains, less about adherence to what is expected from the genre and more about her willingness to venture out and try flavors that push the concept of what soul food means.
In many ways, Cathy’s Kitchen is a microcosm of the St. Louis soul food scene: anchored by tradition but made even more thrilling by the visionary chefs willing to color outside the lines.
Mi Hungry Catering & BBQ (8660 St. Charles Rock Road) has become a favorite as much for its beef patties and curried goat as its snoot sandwiches and rib tips. The Choice (3265 S. Jefferson), a former buffet restaurant, now serves an a la carte menu with all the usual favorites like fried okra, barbecued wings, mostaccioli, and cornbread stuffing with hard-to-find delicacies like tripe sandwiches under new owner Lisa Hayes. Qiuana “Queen” Chapple shows her well-honed soul food chops with chicken and waffles and wings at Goss’Up Pasta, but she’s just as thrilled to serve such pasta dishes as five-cheese alfredo and turkey jalapeño mostaccioli, which she’s been perfecting since she was a little girl cooking for her seven brothers. And Creole with a Splash of Soul (4353 Manchester), which former nurse Ronda Walker opened in The Grove in 2021, fuses Walker’s proficiency in Creole cuisine (notably, crab cakes and shrimp and grits) with soul food classics (catfish, pork chops, and banana pudding, for example).
At Diner’s Delight (1504 S. Compton), brothers Greg and Markeith Johnson keep alive their parents’ five-decades-plus legacy by serving their mom’s recipe for delicious neck bones, pork chops, and catfish. Another longtime staple, Mother’s Fish (2738 N. Grand and 6 S. Central in Clayton), is the quintessential catfish spot, a restaurant that’s perfected the dish from its tender meat to its flaky crust.
The stunning Gourmet Soul (1620 Delmar) is an elegant interpretation of comfort food recipes, thanks to the talented Lavinia McCoy, who serves up her self-described “urban soul” cuisine, such as smothered pork chops, along with what she called an Austin “Horseshoe,” a fried, sweet and sour chicken breast topped with French fries and a pepper jack cheese sauce.
That our city’s soul food is not defined by one dish or style is proof of our scene’s continued vibrance. Whether transporting you across the country or back to your grandmother’s kitchen table, it’s bound to delight.
INTERNATIONAL CUISINE
VEGAN OPTIONS
TREE HOUSE RESTAURANT: Comfort here comes in many guises. There’s the food: the wild mushroom ravioli with cashew cream, the pulled chipotle jackfruit with house-made sopes, the ever-popular doubly crisp beet fries that owner Bay Tran originated years ago, and the seasonal specials. Then there’s the patio, situated along South Grand, ideal for people-watching. 3177 S. Grand.
SWEETART: Vegan versions of comfort food favorites can sometimes feel lacking, but not so with this well-seasoned mac. “My recipe is creamy and rich without using soy or nuts, so it’s safe for people with allergies,” owner Reine Bayoc says. “We can even make it gluten-free.” Sweet comfort, indeed. 2203 S. 39th.
FRIDA’S: Tasty vegan taquitas and spinach artichoke mozzarella sticks (meltingly good, dairy free, and air-fried crispy) calibrate to total comfort for owner Natasha Kwan. “They’re delicious, and you won’t waddle away afterward,” she says. “When you’re cold, you’ve had a bad day, and you want that hug of comfort food, have it here, without the guilt.” 622 North and South.
BOMBAY FOOD JUNKIES: The website promises “you will lick your fingers off” after a taste of its chaat, or street eats like vegan chik’n tikka: plant-based chicken marinated in a cashew-based yogurt full of authentic spices, then cooked with bell peppers and onions. Another favorite comfort snack is paani puri, crispy hollow balls of semolina flour filled with spicy potatoes and chick peas. Customers fill all the space in the balls with mint water and add a dash of tamarind-date chutney before popping the whole bite into their mouths for an explosion of flavors and textures. 12955 Olive Blvd.
LONA’S LIL EATS: In Chinese tradition, mushroom-filled dumplings bring good fortune and wealth to those who eat them—and that’s easy to believe when indulging in these hand-made, cooked-to-order pillows of deliciousness from a James Beard-nominated chef. For a heartier dish, order the spicy tofu with stir-fried rice inside a rice paper wrap. 2199 California Ave.
GOOSEBERRIES: While it’s not a vegan restaurant, this South City eatery specializes in unique takes on classic dishes—and that includes transforming dishes like slingers into vegan versions or going rogue with menu items like fried tofu and pickle pizza. Seasonal favorites such as fried green tomato sandwiches and pumpkin gumbo feature fresh-from-the-garden veggies (either their or their neighbors’). 2754 Chippewa.
STATION NO. 3: Aside from three flexitarian dishes, everything on the menu is vegan, from burnt ends to mozzarella sticks to chicken Caesar salad to the signature quarter-pound burger with house-made patties and pub sauce. Vegetable-forward dishes include crispy Brussels sprouts and a mezze platter with hummus, falafel, and warm pita. Fans of its sister restaurant in University City will be happy to see Frida’s kale salad on the menu too. 1956 Utah St.
IN THE KITCHEN
Hendel’s Restaurant’s Nathan and Christina Bennett
For more than 20 years, the husband-and-wife team has helmed Hendel’s in Old Town Florissant. The couple took the reins from Nathan’s late father, Ed Bennett, who transformed a specialty grocery store and butcher shop dating back to the 1800s into a bustling market café. “It’s a family-owned restaurant in a diverse neighborhood with a lot of history,” says Christina, who manages the front of the house and coordinates special events while Nathan handles the back of the house as chef. Over time, the couple has added a front porch, new bar room, and throwback candy counter, but comfort food remains center stage. “We have traditional comfort food—it’s not froufrou or small bites,” explains Christina. “You get a good meal with meat, potatoes, and vegetables, and you can add on rolls if you want. We have good home cooking, consistent good food, and our top-notch service gives it the icing on the cake.” 599 Rue St. Denis.
Sister Cities Cajun’s Pam and Travis Parfait
When the Parfaits sat down at Lemongrass a few years ago, they didn’t know the hot pot at a Vietnamese restaurant would transport Travis back in time. “When I got to the crispy rice crust at the bottom of the pot, I was in my grandmother’s kitchen,” he recalls. “For me and my cousins, the nearly burnt rice at bottom was our comfort food, with our maw-maw.” Pam adds, “He teared up—I literally watched the boy in him go back to the bayou.” Travis says, “My biggest hurdle at the restaurant is to put that comfort on a plate.” He often goes the extra mile to make that happen. “If one of our customers asks for something not currently on the menu, Travis will make it for them if he can,” Pam says. “We also have some secret menu items, like our Cajun slinger with gumbo instead of chili—that’s comfort, for sure.” Travis also credits Pam with the skill to connect with customers. “I approach customers like I’m speaking to a good neighbor,” she says. “We want to make each visit a good experience and a comfort, especially in difficult times.” 3550 S. Broadway.
Get even more suggestions on the Arch Eats podcast.
