David Molina has taken the reins as executive chef at The Boathouse at Forest Park. In December, Molina replaced Jack W. MacMurray III, a.k.a. “Chef Jack Mac,” who was recently named director of culinary operations at Hamilton Hospitality.
The career move marks a milestone for Molina, who began his cooking career at the Tim Mallett’s Blue Water Grill near The Hill 25 years ago. He later moved to Nashville, and returned to St. Louis years later to open Figaro (a French and Italian restaurant in Clayton owned by Mike Johnson that has since closed), and BARcelona, a popular tapas restaurant now owned by Frank Schmitz. Molina has also launched other concepts in town including Bocci Bar, a now defunct wine bar in Clayton, and Coastal Bistro & Bar, a seafood restaurant that closed in 2016.
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While in St. Louis, Molina met chef Mike Johnson and restaurateur Charlie Downs. In 2012, Molina helped Johnson and Downs open the first location of Sugarfire Smoke House and has since become a partner and executive chef.
In 2017, Sugarfire Events took over the Boathouse, renovated the property and rolled out a new menu featuring dishes such as smoked brisket and Provel toasted ravioli, the Boathouse burger with bacon and mayo, and a profiterole sundae with puff pastry, gold brick, and whipped cream.
At the 2018 World Food Championships, chef Molina took top honors for The Best Sandwich in The World (and was awarded $10,000) for his Koops’ Mustard-infused Cuban Reuben, a combination of smoked ham, pulled pork, pastrami, and swiss cheese bookended between two sourdough grilled cheese sandwiches. The mega-sandwich is now a frequent special at The Boathouse.
Downs says Molina’s creativity is evident at Sugarfire and even more obvious at The Boathouse. “As David changes and develops that menu, his fine dining pedigree is shining through,” says Downs, who’s currently excited about the brunch offerings. “The Boathouse has always been a popular spot for Sunday brunch,” Downs says. “With David on board, I don’t see that changing.”
