Whoever invented sushi rolls the size of a man’s arm is a genius.
OK, we’re exaggerating. A little. More accurately, the rolls are roughly the heft of a Chipotle burrito, and they’re being made at the spanking-new, fast-casual BLK MKT Eats on Vandeventer at Forest Park Parkway, on the border of the Central West End and Midtown.
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The folks behind this ingenious idea are cousins, Kati Fahrney and Ron Turigliatto, who attribute their passion for food to far-flung travel and a tradition of adventurous family dinners.
“We’re home cooks,” says Fahrney. “Food has always been a focal point for us. It’s how we get to play and explore.”
The concept and the restaurant’s mantra is “Taste Beyond Boundaries.” And it’s all about fusion, the marrying of flavors across cultural lines. Expect a strong Japanese influence, but don’t be surprised to find Scandinavian cured salmon, Hawaiian poké, and good ol’ fried chicken with a kick from kimchi slaw and OG fire sauce (BLK MKT’s take on spicy mayo).
Fahrney and Turigliatto have thought very carefully about the ingredients here, and they put them together in exciting ways. Each of the seven main menu items can come as a roll or a bowl, and each is given a descriptor. Swedish Fish (the aforementioned Scandi salmon) is “‘fresh and herbaceous” with yuzu-dill slaw, lemon-spiked asparagus, and fennel.
Shaka Poké (Hawaiian-inspired tuna) is “umami & sweet,” receiving that enigmatic savory taste from Japanese unagi sauce. “Tasty as Cluck” (the buttermilk fried chicken) is “savory and juicy,” combined with crispy shallots and BLK MKT pickles, which are a little Korean-like and a tad reminiscent of Vietnamese food. Take note, though: The rolls, wrapped in a sheet of seaweed, come halved and are certainly big enough to share.
Other standouts include the exceptional sushi nachos—in particular, the Shaka Poké. Gorgeous cubes of marinated tuna are tumbled in with fried wonton chips, green onions, arugula, avocado, black-and-white sesame seeds, and alaea sea salt. Seoul Delicious nachos come with grilled chicken, kimchi slaw, scallions, crispy shallots, and gochujang mayo.
“We’re all about balance, clean eating,” Fahrney says. “Yes, the chips are fried, but you’re also getting incredibly healthy ingredients.”
To boot, BLK MKT Eats serves Tofu Nugs, cubes of organic tofu coated in a lightly seasoned breading and deep-fried until properly crisp. (In the interests of crispiness, the nugs can only be ordered and eaten on site.)
As for the feel of the place, it’s not much more than a counter and a few high stools. But the subway-tiled walls are blisteringly white and the open kitchen, like the food, is spotless.
The location is pretty perfect, too: just across from Saint Louis University. Fahrney, a SLU alum, says she has a hunch that the students might flock there.
“There’s really nothing else like us in St. Louis,” she says. “BLK MKT Eats is the first of its kind.”
