The best new restaurants in St. Louis 2019

Note: This article appears in St. Louis Magazine's October 2019 issue as part of the "Best New Restaurants" feature. Click here to purchase a copy of the issue or to subscribe.

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TOP 10

BEST IN CLASS

Bulrush

Creativity, often hyped in the food biz, is actually rare—making chef Rob Connoley’s new place all the more impressive. Ozarks food and foodways are the inspiration. Extraordinary native ingredients are rendered into meals that are simultaneously a celebration of a regional cuisine and an unmatched dining experience. The setting’s minimalist; the focus is on the food, along with some very fine cocktails, stirred with indigenous ingredients. Everything from venison to prairie flowers goes into a seasonally changing menu that’s as much folk art as it is fine dining. Bulrush is unique, fascinating, and completely rewarding. 3307 Washington, Midtown.

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The Bellwether

Lofty genteel dining in a converted factory–type setting comes with spectacular views of the city. On the patio, enjoy the striking view along with your Champagne and togarashi fries, and try the appetizer of pumpernickel squares topped with gravlax, a carnival of flavors and textures. 1419 Carroll, Lafayette Square.

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Hamilton’s Urban Steakhouse

A haven for the steak-and-sip crowd, Hamilton’s is intimate, rustic, and relaxed. The charcuterie board comes with a bacon fat candle (don’t ask; just order), and the wet-aged ribeye (pictured) is among the best in town. Peruse the three reserve menus—vintage wines, rare bourbons, super-premium steaks—and prepare for a most memorable evening. 2101 Chouteau, Lafayette Square.

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Cinder House

Stunning views of the Arch and river from the plush outdoor and indoor eighth-floor dining rooms serve as the backdrop to chef Gerard Craft’s Four Seasons restaurant. Consider the new 10-seat dining experience, Dia’s Room, with its gorgeous 13-course Brazilian-influenced prix-fixe menu that includes dishes prepared tableside. 999 N. Second, downtown.

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Balkan Treat Box

Loryn and Edo Nalic have aced the transition from food truck to crazy busy brick-and-mortar. The expanded menu includes familiar items—ćevapi sandwiches and boat-shaped beef pide (pictured)—and new additions—the “Balkan burger,” pljeskavica. The cheerful décor features a colorful woodblock wall mosaic that doubles as a sound dampener. Despite the lines out the door, service is well organized and typically keeps wait times down. 8103 Big Bend, Webster Groves.

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Savage

Few establishments present such a unique vision as that of chef Logan Ely’s restaurant, which offers four-, six-,and 12-course tasting menus. Ely and his staff lead diners on a playful adventure with seemingly simple food—a spot prawn cooked in its own roe or tilefish with anchovies and cured romaine lettuce (pictured)—transformed into a spectacular experience. 2655 Ann, Fox Park.

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indo

The best seat in town? Indo’s sushi counter, where you can watch chef/owner Nick Bognar in action, slicing, squeezing rice, composing fish-topped nuggets with confidence and skill. The 40-seat space is inevitably packed. The Thai dishes are perfection, but it’s the masterfully crafted sushi and sashimi (pictured), with rare toppings imported from Japan (in this case, three types of bluefin tuna), that make indo special. 1641D Tower Grove, Botanical Heights.

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Elmwood

The Maplewood hot spot has quickly garnered accolades for its upscale-yet-approachable fare and impeccable service. A coal-fired grill and oven lays the foundation for its offerings, which include Korean grilled pork steak and a Flannery dry-aged burger with bacon, shallot, American cheese, and gochujang barbecue sauce (pictured). Co-owner Chris Kelling and assistant general manager/sommelier Juliette Dottle have pulled together an extensive beverage menu, including a fine wine list. 2704 Sutton, Maplewood.

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Beast Butcher & Block

Over are the days of trekking to Belleville to tuck into David Sandusky’s rave-worthy heritage breed barbecue, which many consider the best in the region. The new Grove location offers all the staples of the original, a butcher shop, and The Skullery, Sandusky’s culinary playground, in a clever restaurant designed by JEMA, with accents from neighbor SPACE Architecture + Design, and bold murals by Killer Napkins. 4156 Manchester, The Grove.

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Yellowbelly

The tropical-themed restaurant has made a name for itself with seafood dishes created by celeb chef Richard Blais and creative cocktails by co-owner Tim Wiggins. Among the must-trys are the lobster enchiladas at lunch, the Spam fried rice and Wu-Tang Clams at dinner, and cheddar sea biscuits with uni butter and the Lion’s Share cocktail (pictured) anytime. 4659 Lindell, Central West End.

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Tompkins by The Rack House

In a Nutshell: A rehabbed 1860s–era building on St. Charles’ historic Main Street has been transformed into a rustic, inviting space serving locally sourced fare.

Dish: The 50 Mile BLT—none of the ingredients travels farther than 50 miles to reach your plate.

Drink: The Smoked Maple Old Fashioned or a Paris Is Burning (a sublimely heady mix of Boodles gin, mezcal, and St. Germain elderflower liqueur).

Insider Tip: Request server Kristen Brown, who doubles as the restaurant’s ambassador. 500 S. Main, St. Charles.

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Akar

In a Nutshell: Rooted in the Malaysian comfort foods of owner Bernie Lee’s youth, Akar’s offerings are designed to travel and reheat well.

Dine: A killer short rib, its thick juices scented with star anise, is accompanied by a head of roasted garlic.

Drink: Gerard Bertrand rosé, from Languedoc-Roussillon, France.

Insider Tip: The interior seats just 12 and the outside terrace takes no reservations, so consider arriving early or late. 7641 Wydown, Clayton.

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The Midwestern

In a Nutshell: After shuttering brisket-and-pastrami temple Big Baby Q, Ben Welch partnered with the owners of Wheelhouse and Start Bar to open The Midwestern.

Dine: Although the brisket leads the popularity contest, the ribs are worth a try. Oh, and don’t forget the chicken wings. And the pastrami… OK, just order the sampler platter (pictured), and try a little of everything.

Drink: The Old Flames, from a cocktail list that rivals that of any bar in town, thanks to master mixologist-in-residence Tony Saputo. 

Tip: For such a large space (including a building-length patio that faces Busch Stadium), service is amazingly quick.  900 Spruce, downtown.

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The Chocolate Pig

In a Nutshell: As the name implies, the Southern-inspired restaurant serves meat- and chocolate-centric mains and desserts, along with creative cocktails.

Dish: Chicken-fried Brussels sprouts with tangy buttermilk dressing, lemon confit, and pickled spring onions. And the Peanut Butter Bomb, a filled chocolate globe that dissolves under a pour of hot caramel.

Drink: The Queen Bee, a decidedly Southern house cocktail made with Four Roses bourbon, honey, lemon, Big O ginger liqueur, and Angostura bitters.

Tip: Weekend brunch offers such standouts as the maple-bacon cinnamon roll, a decadent creation of brioche and candied bacon, and the fried chicken biscuit with pimiento cheese. Request one of the high-backed curved booths—the best seats in the house. 4220 Duncan, Central West End.

Oaked

EDITOR'S NOTE: Oaked closed on October 19, 2019.

In a Nutshell: Soulard goes snazzy with a cool two-story eatery featuring a piano, gracious patio, and tucked-away second-floor terrace. Explore.

Dine: Start with a cheese and charcuterie board (pictured). Then try the scallops atop risotto with pink grapefruit and chimichurri—it might sound strange, but it works.

Drink: Let sommelier Denise Mueller guide you through the wine bible she’s assembled. At last count, wines by the glass numbered a whopping 207.

Tip: A selection of dark whiskeys, part of Oaked’s double-barreled theme, is robust as well. 1031 Lynch, Soulard.

POP Sparkling Bar & Restaurant

In a Nutshell: This place celebrates the everyday with verve—and Veuve Clicquot.

Dine: Ahi tuna tacos—paper-thin jicama tortillas, blackened ahi tuna, peanut sauce, orange, and avocado. Dine on the charming rear patio if the weather permits.

Drink: The sparkling wine list is extensive—including 10 by the glass, including a pink Champagne (pictured)—but the fizzy theme extends to beer, cider, sake, and cocktails, including the Sakura Pop, made with black cherry vodka, Joto sake, lemon, Cointreau, and sparkling sake.

Tip: If there’s a wait, climb the staircase to Baileys’ Chocolate Bar and carry a bourbon down to POP to accompany your vittles—or take your bubbles upstairs for dessert. 1915 Park, Lafayette Square.

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Sultan Mediterranean Restaurant

In a Nutshell: The menu of Middle Eastern dishes is sprawling, the atmosphere suitably lively and romantic.

Dish: The stuffed chicken and lamb shanks are terrific, but the phyllo-encrusted Sultan pilau is an edible monument.

Drink: Turkish coffee—what else?

Tip: Go for lunch to avoid the inevitable dinner crowds. 4200 Manchester, The Grove.

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Szechuan Cuisine

In a Nutshell: The latest on a growing list of “real” Chinese eateries, including Tai Ke and Cate Zone, that serve authentic regional dishes.

Dish: Feeling adventurous? The fried shrimp in spicy hot sauce is piquant. Feeling really adventurous? Dry pot frog is an incendiary hot pot without the broth.

Drink: Sweet, melony white gourd tea.

Tip: The portions are large enough to share. 7930 Olive, University City.

58hundred

In a Nutshell: Acclaimed chef Marc Del Pietro owns the quintessential neighborhood restaurant, where meat and vegetarian entrées are priced in the teens, making 58hundred equally suited for weeknight and weekend dining.

Dine: Brussels sprout tacos (pictured), a dish that came to Del Pietro in a dream, marries caramelized sprouts with pickled-pink onions, toasted almonds, and lime crema.

Drink: Tell bartender Brad Chapman, “Make me something.” He’ll do the rest.

Insider Tip: Ask for shaded table No. 73, on the patio. 5800 Southwest, South City.

Il Palato

In a Nutshell: Luminous wood and Vermont marble tables, a glowing coffered ceiling, and elegant art make for a wholly aesthetic experience.

Dish: Start with the tonno crudo bruschetta (pictured). Then try the tortellini filled with sweet corn and mascarpone, served with shiitakes in a beautiful corn brodo.

Drink: If it’s still warm outside, try the lighter soaves and pinot grigios.

Insider Tip: The bar menu is full of standouts, including oil-poached tuna, roasted-cauliflower flatbread, and an unlikely scene-stealer: roasted carrots with whipped ricotta. 222 S. Bemiston, Clayton.

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Chao Baan

In a Nutshell: Thirty-year-old Shayn Prapaisilp (whose parents founded King and I) thought the city was ready for regional Thai cuisine and that The Grove was the place to do it.

Dish: Start with the mieng kham, a mandatory amuse-bouche of sorts with pops of unexpected flavors and textures, and transition into khao tod nam sod, a “twice-fried rice salad” that’s also good the next day, hot or cold.

Drink: The wine list is line-priced (glasses are $10, bottles $40) and white-heavy, but consider a light Thai beer like Singha or Chang.

Insider Tip: Don’t expect basics such as pad thai or esoterics like blood sausage. Do expect new flavors presented in familiar ways—for instance, sliced grilled sirloin with fish sauce, lime, and chili. It’s a dish you won’t find anywhere else in town. 4087 Chouteau, The Grove.

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Liliana’s Italian Kitchen

In a Nutshell: In a humble strip center, veteran restaurateurs Tim and Kathy Pieri revive old-school Italian charm, from Rat Pack and Sopranos references to an oversized chalkboard menu with specials.

Dish: The combination of a winning homemade pizza crust and top-notch toppings (fried spinach, garlic shrimp, white anchovies, giardiniera, goat cheese) has made many a convert.

Drink: Go near (Bud Select), go far (Birra Moretti), or go nearby (Logboat Wheat Porter), but go for a beer with that pizza.

Tip: The Pieris campaigned to have customers drop off “Grandma’s dishes” and came up with enough plates for several restaurants: “Expensive, gaudy, classy—we love them all.” 11836 Tesson Ferry, Sappington.

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Bait

In a Nutshell: This cool lounge just off the beaten path in the Central West End opened in February and quickly filled a niche, serving colorful, aromatic seafood in a refined velvet-accented setting.

Dish: It’s almost impossible to choose from the chowder, squid ink seafood fettuccine, whole red snapper, and such surprises as duck Rangoon and (literally) flaming prawns.

Drink: The tiny bar is a powerhouse, serving such drinks as a mauve Lavender Sidecar containing a measure of crème de violette.

Insider Tip: Chef Ceaira Jackson also serves plant-based versions of menu items. Her vegan bourbon “shrimp” consists of crispy-yet-juicy mushrooms served with flash-fried spinach and crispy rice noodles. 4239 Lindell, Central West End.

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Alta Calle

In a Nutshell: This South City addition is vibrant with color: the food on the plates, the brightly painted chairs, the Coco-themed Dia de los Muertos pennants overhead.

Dish: Flautas—corn tortillas rolled around roasted potatoes, baby ’bellas, and shiitake mushrooms, topped with edible flowers—or the vibrant ceviche.

Drink: The fuchsia hibiscus margarita, as colorful as the plates themselves.

Insider Tip: Look for portraits of sisters Veronica and Dulce Morales in the mural. 3131 S. Grand, South City.

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Poke Munch

In a Nutshell:  The restaurant boasts a veteran sushi chef and such innovations as modular “fish lights.”

Dish: Maui’s Fury (with tuna and salmon) packs a punch and can be “bowled or rolled.” The tofu fries are a must.

Drink: The best nonalcoholic drinks in town include Fitz’s, Aloha Maid, and (our fave) Bundaberg ginger beer from Australia.

Tip: Don’t miss the not-too-sweet Korean ice cream sandwiches. 630 N. New Ballas, Creve Coeur

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Checking In

In the past year, four restaurants have opened in St. Louis hotels, upping the options for hotel dining.

Grand Tavern by David Burke

Celebrity chef David Burke brings to St. Louis a sampling of his time-tested classics, such as clothesline bacon, lobster steak, and a 34-ounce salt–aged porterhouse (pictured). Guests can choose between a lively bar area and a more formal and sedate dining room. Before or after, check the ART (Angad Rainbow Terrace) for a beverage. Angad Arts Hotel, 634 N. Grand, Grand Center.

Union 30

On the first floor of the Louis Sullivan–designed Union Trust Building, guests experience hearty and often whimsical takes on comfort food classics, many with local connections (Mayfair Grilled Caesar). Upstairs, a window wall in Form Skybar opens up to a view of Busch Stadium. Hotel Saint Louis, 705 Olive, downtown.

Quattro Trattoria + Pizzeria

With the location in The Westin St. Louis, immediately across the street from Busch Stadium, it’s fitting that Quattro’s logo resembles a baseball diamond. Cardinal fans have a new place to go for a burger, a beer, and, now, a wood-fired pizza paired with a Negroni prepared tableside. 811 Spruce, downtown.

The Last Kitchen

The lobby of The Last Hotel (former International Shoe Company building, named for the wooden molds cobblers use to make shoes) transitions seamlessly into a cleverly designed restaurant/bar where former Pastaria chef Evy Swoboda turns out Midwestern melting pot cuisine that includes, of course, a seasonal cobbler. The Last Hotel, 1501 Washington, downtown.

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The Missing Year

Because SLM’s Best New Restaurants issue is published biennially, the feature always includes some not-as-new but eminently worthy recommendations. Consider it a reminder to return or an invitation to pay an initial visit.

Taco Buddha

Inspired by co-owner Kurt Eller’s upbringing in Texas and abroad, Taco Buddha serves tacos with an international flair. Dishes include tandoori-style chicken tacos, Baja salad, and Mexican street corn on the cob. 7405 Pershing, University City.

Nudo House

The city’s best ramen spot (now with two locations) also offers solid banh mi and pho. Consider the O’ Miso Spicy ramen and a Japanese Hitachino Nest Red Rice Ale. Or extend the concept of the Banh Mi Pho Dip by using the broth from any of the pho or ramen as a dip for your banh mi. 11423 Olive, Creve Coeur; 6105 Delmar, Delmar Loop.

The Frisco Barroom

Webster Grove’s top après-work destination—and a family favorite—is roomy and convivial, with rooftop and patio seating. To get started, try the flaky Cornish pasties and a whiskey/ginger ale Irish Buck. It’s open into the wee hours, a perfect spot for late-night noshing. 8110 Big Bend, Webster Groves.

Crispy Edge

Owner David Dresner has taken that beloved Chinese delicacy the potsticker and filled it with creative sweet and savory fillings (pictured) inspired by cuisines ranging from Indian and Vietnamese to Cajun and Mexican and offers handcrafted cocktails to boot. Don’t overlook the dessert potstickers, the Cherry Blossom in particular. 4168 Juniata, South City.

The Clover & The Bee

Serving three squares a day (not to mention a happy hour menu from 4–6 p.m. Wendesday through Sunday), the sister restaurant to Olive + Oak offers something for everyone. There’s a walk-up window for quick ordering, seasonally inspired dishes, and an extensive drink menu. 100 W. Lockwood, Webster Groves.

Billie-Jean

The sleek candlelit 22-seat bistro, with its predominantly black interior, Robert Motherwell prints, and chef Ny Vongsaly’s tightly curated menu, is arguably the most modern of Zoë Robinson’s three restaurants along Wydown. 7610 Wydown, Clayton.

The Benevolent King

Chef/owner Ben Poremba’s Maplewood restaurant pays homage to his Middle Eastern roots. Even simple dishes, such as a grilled zucchini salad (pictured), are presented imaginatively. Happy hour features a selection of salatim (small dishes) and arrack (a highly potent drink). 7268 Manchester, Maplewood.

Carnivore

Carnivore presents a reasonably priced steak house to an area formerly devoid of one, throwing in a collection of Alfredos, primaveras, and raviolis to pacify the pasta-loving inhabitants of The Hill. In the trade that’s called nailing the niche. 5257 Shaw, The Hill.

Westport Social

If you’re not up for 13,000 square feet of fun, games, and karaoke, sit on the sidelines in a leather rocker snacking on burnt end nachos, hot chicken sliders, and cocktails created by Kyle Mathis, one of the best bartenders in town. 910 Westport Plaza, Maryland Heights.

Grace Meat + Three

Chef/owner Rick Lewis serves up his signature Southern-style cooking, regularly stepping out from the kitchen to greet diners. Try the hot-fired chicken with mac and cheese and cornbread (pictured). And look for Lewis’ new late-night concept, Grace Chicken + Fish, next door. 4270 Manchester, The Grove.

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RESTAURANT OF THE YEAR

Louie

You want that place: a neighborhood destination, one where you can drop by for a drink or a linger-all-evening dinner. A place where the menu is just familiar enough for you to develop reliable favorites but also sufficiently inventive that you’ll never tire of the offerings. And it has to be situated just right, on a leafy street off the beaten track with a sylvan park right across the street. Plenty of parking, close enough for people to stroll in, walking from nearby homes and apartments.

Louie is that place. It’s quickly become a fixture in the relaxed DeMun area. The atmosphere’s a happy mix: local pub and folksy trattoria. A long bar ends at the rear, where an incandescent brick oven breathes flame, toasting exquisitely charred pizzas. Tables are close-set; clever ceiling baffles muffle some noise, but it’s still lively. Louie is the archetype of that eatery we all seek, from time to time or on a regular basis.

The menu speaks with a decidedly Italian inflection. Wide pappardelle streamers are swirled in an aromatic Bolognese sauce. Hand-cut chitarra strands are tossed with olive oil, basil, and tomatoes. That wood-fired oven is so fearsome, pizzas must be tended constantly; they’re finished in minutes, smoking, crusty, tomato-sweet, and tangy. There are variations in toppings: broccolini sprays, blobs of melty ricotta, fennel slices, salsciccia… The Margherita—basil, mozzarella, fresh tomatoes, and a blistered crust—displays the artistry of Louie’s oven-keeper. Exquisite.

A strip steak is seared and slathered in salsa verde. A cumin-smacked chermoula enlivens a fat, marbled pork chop. Mussels are fragrant in broth. The burrata’s creamy. Desserts include a dauntingly rich “ice cream sandwich.” Whatever your appetite, you’re covered. (Rapper Drake apparently agreed: He dined here several nights in a row on a recent visit.)

Every element at Louie speaks to a refreshing individuality, the opportunity to enjoy it as you wish. Want to perch outside on a summer evening? A bowl of Castelvetrano olives, shimmering in oil, with a hunk of hearty focaccia is the perfect accompaniment. A frosty winter night’s repast? Try that splendid roast chicken breast, its skin bronzed and crackly, nestled on a bed of emerald rapini greens.

A family’s gathered around tables pushed together. A couple are head to head, lost in conversation. At the bar (among the most intimate in town, small enough to be comfy, big enough to carry an impressive stock of spirits), a young woman queries the bartender on the making of a proper bourbon cocktail. There are kissy faces and handshakes. Backslaps, hugs, and a European cool. It’s magic when a restaurant can accommodate it all, make it work and glow, night after night.

There’s not a lot of hype. It’s all understated and all the lovelier for it. Just a neighborhood joint. A place you want. 706 DeMun, Clayton.

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Editor's Note: This article has been updated to reflect the closure of 808 Maison.