Where in St. Louis are you going for sushi these days? —Lauren F. St. Louis
We’re generalizing here, but in the not-too-distant past, the sushi experience—by which we mean sashimi, nigiri, and maki (the wrapped roll that most people equate with the word “sushi”)—was generally enjoyed at a handful of sushi bars, most of which were priced pretty much on par with one another, regardless of whether there was a true sushi master (itamae) present. As sushi became more commonplace, however, sushi restaurants proliferated and price points began to rise, reflecting improved technique and a no-nonsense approach to sourcing quality products. At the same time, a market developed for “approachably priced” sushi, so St. Louisans now have a choice along a broad continuum.
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Today, the two most singular sushi experiences can be found at indo in Botanical Heights and at Nobu’s in University City. A lot of praise has been heaped upon the former and its owner Nick Bognar, who’s also planning to open Japanese/sushi restaurant Sado (named by Bloomberg as one of “14 Most Anticipated Restaurants in America” for 2023) on The Hill later this month. Nobu’s, founded by Noboru “Nobu” Kidera (one of the city’s aforementioned itamae), recently reopened off a small paseo in the Delmar Loop as an 18-seat sushi bar/restaurant with a worth-the-splurge prix fixe omakase menu. Sushi Sen in Lake Saint Louis gets high praise from aficionados. SLM‘s dining critic Dave Lowry, who also wrote The Connoisseur’s Guide to Sushi, also gives high marks to Top Sushi in Maryland Heights and Oishi Sushi in Creve Coeur, especially when “Mr. Tsunaoshi is working behind the bar.”
We still love going to The Ritz’s Lobby Lounge for sushi on Thursday through Saturday nights, as well as Sushi Station in Webster Groves. Among the places we need to get back to but haven’t recently: Kampai Sushi Bar, Sushi Koi, I Love Mr. Sushi, and Drunken Fish. (Our “to try” list is far longer, but at the top is Sugoi Sushi and Zushi Sushi.)
In the budget category (and eminently worthwhile, we might add) are the half-price rolls during happy hour at Café Mochi, the half-off rolls every Tuesday night at Wasabi Sushi Bar, and the incredible all-you-can eat-deals at the six locations of Sushi Ai.
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