What is your favorite Missouri restaurant outside of the St. Louis area? —Brian N., St. Louis
For me, one of the best lunch-and-dinner combos is a double cheeseburger and a cup of red at Booche’s in Columbia (then settling in for a game of 9-ball or snooker). The lager beer gods willing, we end up at Murry’s, a restaurant and jazz bar known for its “casual fine dining.” (And ironically, Murry’s was opened by the former owner of Booche’s, who named it after a customer who fancied snooker.)
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Several of Murry’s now-legendary dishes were named after the two owners’ friends, who almost singlehandedly supported the restaurant in the early days. We thank Chip Godfrey and Brock Jones for their support every time we devour an order of Bleu Chips Cheese Bread and Brock’s Green Pepper Rings.
We continue the tour of recommended Missouri restaurants with members of SLM‘s dining team, followed by a handful of St. Louis’ chefs and restaurant owners. (Arlene Maminta Browne is a fan of Murry’s, as well.)
Cheryl Baehr, SLM: “Does Augusta count? If so, there’s no question my favorite is Root Food + Wine, the lovely quaint house-turned fine-dining restaurant from the talented chef Phillip Day. Root does a fantastic job of feeling both upscale and comfortable; much of this has to do with the atmosphere, a converted house that blends in with the surrounding neighborhood so seamlessly, you could easily miss it if you blink. Inside, you feel like you are a guest in someone’s home—mismatched salt and pepper shakers and all. However, Day’s food, presented in tasting menu form, is some of the most elegant you will find in the area. It’s the embodiment of what a restaurant in Missouri wine country should be.”
Dave Lowry, SLM: “My favorite restaurant in outstate Missouri is the fabulous Lucky House in Rolla. The menu is entirely Chinese-American conventional, but because of the large number of Chinese students at the university there, there’s a handwritten menu you have to fetch from behind the counter, entirely in Chinese, with spectacular regional Chinese dishes. It’s endless fun to see locals dining on crab rangoon and General Tso’s Chicken, and the next table over is a group of students chowing down on white poached chicken and pork belly with vegetables.”
Collin Preciado, SLM: “Coming from someone who briefly lived there, it’s been shocking these past few years to see Washington, Missouri’s growth as a popular weekend destination and the sharp increase of restaurant options that have come as a result. There are some notable newcomers like the Tilted Skillet, with its elevated pub fare, but the original restaurants remain the most popular. My favorite is Cowan’s, which is the kind of hot meal and giant pie place you usually can find in a smaller town. But the locals’ absolute favorite spot is a tiny diner called Wimpy’s. There’s really nothing that unique about it, it’s just a normal diner with a Popeye the Sailor Man theme I’m not sure they actually have permission to use, but say one bad word about it to a local, and you will immediately be thrown into the Missouri River.”
Bill Burge, SLM: “Baba’s Pantry, in Kansas City, is a ridiculously good Palestinian restaurant with nothing in St. Louis that comes close. The entire menu is one hit after another, but the falafel is without rival, and you absolutely have to try all of their condiments. They pickle and can all kinds of things, which are all also available for purchase to go, and the torshi I bought on my last visit is dosed like gold until I can make another trip back to KC. I should have bought more.”
Lynn Venhaus, SLM: “At Lake [of the Ozarks], many of us oldsters fondly recall the batter-fried lobster at the erstwhile Potted Steer and The Blue Heron. A visit to Jeffrey’s Prime Rib & Lobster will rekindle the memory.”
Amy De La Hunt, SLM: “I think all of Missouri has fabulous food. It is very hard to narrow it down. So I will give you some options, because I just can’t choose:
- Das Stein Haus Restaurant and Bistro in Jefferson City: The only place in the state where I feel like I’m back in Germany for a meal—the beef rouladen is a transportive experience, and the vibe is perfect, with the owner coming around chatting with the guests and drinking schnapps
- Cafe Cusco in Springfield: Amazing Peruvian food, way more authentic than in other highly lauded places. It’s also very warmly decorated and cozy, perfect for a wintry day when you wish you were in South America. I love the bean and quinoa soup—vegan, super simple, utterly delicious
- Rail Co Pizzeria (inside Boat Town Brewing in Lebanon): They do this mashup of buffalo chicken and mac n cheese in a calzone—it’s hard to explain and a mess to eat but unforgettable, and the dough/crust is perfect, but order ahead, because there is usually a long wait. The dessert pizzas are also excellent
- Tater Patch in Rolla: The Ozark Nachos are deep-fried potato medallions with pulled pork, mozzarella, coleslaw, onions, BBQ sauce, sour cream, and jalapeños. Plus, it’s the only place I know of where you will find a parrot hanging around the pool tables with his human.
Holly Fann, SLM: “The first time I visited Maid-Rite in Rolla, I fell madly and forever in love. The fried chicken, onion rings, and chili are all outstanding, and the malts and dipped cones taste local dairy fresh. But for me, it is the Maid-Rite sandwich—a loose meat style beef sandwich (with cheese it’s a Cheese-Rite). Add pickles and mustard and an order of their crispy fries that steam as you bite into them… Maid-Rite is a perfect, complete restaurant as it is in every way. I hope it never changes. A close second, Tater Patch, is also in Rolla, where they serve all of their comfort foods like chicken fried steak and mashed potatoes on top of monstrous Pangea-size baked potatoes. There’s a lot of potato-on-potato action if you’re into that kinky carbohydrate stuff.”
Denise Mueller, SLM: “I love Farina in KC. Run by a husband-and-wife team, it’s outstanding. Every dish. Ambiance. Everything. Le Fou Frog in KC is also quite an experience. You’re taken back in time to Paris. There are 20-plus features on a chalk board. It’s intimate, with dim red lighting. It’s truly special and old-school.”
Rick Lewis, Grace Meat + Three, Grace Chicken + Fish:
“Broadway Brewery is always an excellent choice in Columbia. Walker Claridge’s passion for growing food and fermentation is impressive, and he’s always working on some very cool stuff. I’ve known Walker for probably 15 years, and his attention for doing everything the right way is very notable. I’m also a sucker for a no-frills cheeseburger at Gordon’s Stoplight in Crystal City. Usually a Quadzilla.”
Adam Altnether, Side Project Pizza:
“It’s rare that I visit Kansas City without at least popping into Corvino for at least a few bites. I’ve never left uninspired by the attention to detail and creativity throughout both the menu and service.”
Cat Neville, Explore St. Louis:
“The Ozark Mill Restaurant at Finley Farms is a charming destination that blends history with farm-inspired Southern-style cuisine – think crispy catfish with pickled okra tartar sauce, fried pork chops, and meatloaf made with bison from Dogwood Canyon. Nestled along the scenic banks of the Finley River, guests enjoy their meals in the beautifully restored historic mill, just one element of the Finley Farms experience. The property also boasts a high-yield farm, apiary and fields cultivated for cut flowers as well as The Workshop, a makerspace that hosts classes and serves coffee shop fare like handcrafted pastries and avocado toast.”
Ben Poremba, Bengelina Hospitality Group:
“Speck in Cape Girardeau has the best pizza anywhere.”
Arlene Maminta Browne: Robust / Madrina: ” I’ve been going to Murry’s in Columbia for more years than I care to count. I love that I can still walk in late at night and there’s live jazz playing. It’s always busy, and I always see a familiar face. All of the food is simple but tasty. The Blue Chips Cheese Bread is forever my favorite—tender shrimp with blue cheese and Provel melted over a warm baguette—it’s drool worthy. I try to make a version at home, and it’s pretty good, but there’s something about eating it there with the dim lighting, jazz in the background, and sipping a glass of wine, with the best of friends, that I just can’t replicate.”
Gerard Craft, Niche Food Group:
“Rye Plaza in Kansas City.”
Brant Baldanza, OG Hospitality Group:
“Look, I know it’s a Mahomes side arm throw away from the Kansas state line, but it’s still Missouri: Jack Stack in Lee’s Summit. When I visit our Lee’s Summit Shack, I always try to hit this place up. For lunch, my go-to is the Jalapeno Smoked Cornbread with a Smoked Chicken Chili, or if it’s “naughty time” (that’s what I call a meal where calories are thrown out the window), I hit up their signature sandwich, The Stack, with smoked sausage, beef brisket, Tillamook pepper jack, onion ring, and honey-chipotle barbecue sauce. Defibrillator not included.
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