Did anything happen on the local restaurant scene this year that you absolutely did not see coming? —Patrick M., St. Louis
Yes, one thing definitely stands out: After chef/restaurateur Ben Poremba shocked the dining community in 2022 by announcing that he was relocating his three restaurants from Botanical Heights (Elaia, Olio, and Nixta) to the Delmar Maker District, he opened two more restaurants (Esca and Florentin) along the same half-mile strip of Delmar and plans to add yet another (Esca Vino & Spuntino), effectively doubling down on his original promise. Don’t expect this kind of thing to happen again soon—or ever.
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I also asked the same question to a few of the city’s leading culinarians:
Chris Kelling, Pizza Champ: “Reflecting on the last 12 months of the restaurant scene, what comes to mind is not something that surprised me but something that isn’t a surprise at all: the fact that, no matter what, St. Louis shows up. From Ben Poremba basically creating a dining district of his own to Katie Lee launching a soon-to-be-national packaged food line to Gerard Craft doubling down on his commitment to the city by opening Expat and None Of The Above at City Foundry, St. Louis restaurateurs continue to take big swings in furthering their commitment to this city, and the people of St. Louis continue to show up and support these efforts. It’s a great city with great restaurants, which are filled with great people.”
Frank Romano, The Parkmoor Drive-In, Madrina: “The most surprising thing that I’ve noticed is the shift in dining times. It used to be 7:30 or 8 p.m. was the most requested time. Now, everyone wants to dine at 5:30 or 6 p.m.”
Natasha Bahrami, The Gin Room, Salve Osteria: “Although it has seemingly been a difficult year in the hospitality industry, with a few more closings than anticipated, there is a gust of positive air in growth within established businesses. There seems to be a constant evolution, businesses taking the crucial efforts to grow, improve, and maneuver into even better versions of themselves. With so many highly anticipated restaurants and bars slated to open in 2025, St Louis continues to be a destination for great talent and hospitality.”
Natasha Kwan, Frida’s/Bonito Bar, Diego’s Cantina, Station No. 3: “What hit me was that so many well-known, long-standing restaurants have closed or are closing at the end of this year. Of course, we still have more openings than closings, which indicates just how vibrant our city is.”
Brant Baldanza, OG Hospitality Group: “This year, the biggest surprise for our family of restaurants was the remarkable resilience of consumers in our segment of the St. Louis market. While restaurant sales nationwide declined by 10–13 percent over the previous year, our sales held steady with 2023. We feel incredibly fortunate to have such loyal and supportive guests.”
Kevin Willmann, Farmhaus: “Sorry, I don’t have anything on this one, George. Nothing surprises me anymore.”
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