By Stefanie Ellis
It takes a little time to fully comprehend Terrene, one of the Central West End’s newest eateries. Some diners may only require two bites of crusty whole-grain bread with black-bean spread; others may remain unmoved until midway through the arugula-and-frisée salad with sunflower sprouts, roasted beets, Gorgonzola and cider-horseradish vinaigrette. Then reality hits: This place is different—not just “Hey, what a dramatic remodel from the Southern Belle Supper Club” different but “Hey, this table is made from recycled material” different.
Diners will make similar observations about the menu after realizing that the appetizer list includes delicately fried white anchovies, onions and lemons; pork belly with bourbon root-vegetable sauce; and tofu on a stick. The food caters to all palates, with a shout-out to vegetarians. With a seasoned chef (who happens to be a vegetarian) at the helm, you can bet that ingredients such as seitan and tofu are incorporated with a deftness difficult to find elsewhere—though that same deftness is seen in all else that comes out of the kitchen—and in other aspects of the restaurant.
Terrene, which means “of the earth,” is as rich in creativity as it is in conscience, and its staff promises to follow sustainable practices, use organic ingredients from local farmers and recycle all applicable materials. All this, plus entrées beautifully conceived and presented, such as grilled hanger steak with mashed white beans, rocket, Gorgonzola and to-die-for house fries; black cod with fennel marmalade and roasted artichokes; and free-range chicken with honey-vinegar pan sauce, saffron-dusted quince and crispy polenta. And that tofu? It’s crusted with almonds and served with a raisin-and-onion tagine. Menu items revolve faster than a roulette table, though, because Terrene is relying on what’s available locally, so don’t fret if your salad has Mars grapes one day and roasted beets the next or your cod has been replaced by walleye. It’s more than likely going to wow you anyway, and chances are you’ll walk away feeling pretty good—in more ways than you expected.
33 Sarah, 314-535-5100; lunch 11 a.m.–3 p.m. Tue–Sun, dinner 5–10 p.m. Tue–Thu, 5–11 p.m. Fri & Sat, 5–9 p.m. Sun.
