A balmy, spring evening was the backdrop for an event at Saks Fifth Avenue last week. The women came in droves, lured in by the blissful weather and the chance to see the delightful shoes designed by Sophia Webster, which looked like delicate and fanciful flowers artfully strewn around the shoe salon at Saks Fifth Avenue. Webster, a former designer for renowned shoe designer Nicholas Kirkwood, has only recently begun designing her own shoe line to glowing reviews.
It was the designer’s first visit to St. Louis, and she had a rapt audience as Lisa Meldandri, the director of the Contemporary Art Museum St. Louis, led a lively and engaging discussion with Webster on the importance of the shoe, her inspirations, and the role of art and artists in her designs. Shy, winsome, and charming, Webster answered all the questions posed wearing a signature pair of lavendar-and-mint-green-striped, open-toed sandals and a silk sheath printed with what appeared to be a celestial cosmos. A streak of bright pink lipstick set off her alabaster skin, and she, too, looked like a fresh spring flower. I had the chance to interview her earlier in the week about her inspirations, challenges, and plans for the future.
Can you describe your inspirations for your whimsical and joyful spring collection?
I looked at Japanese photographer, Mika Ninagawa as my main source of inspiration. She is known for her vibrant and brightly colored photographs of flowers, goldfish, and landscapes. I was also inspired by her film Helter Skelter and named my favorite shoe in this collection after the lead character, Lilico. The laser-cut butterflies are also another key design for this collection that was inspired by the amazing patterns and bright colors I found while looking at butterfly wings up close. I added iridescent and mirrored leathers to give the wings a “bug-like” feel.
What inspires and engages you?
I am inspired by lots of things: art, culture, nature, and my own life experiences. In my opinion, there are few places in the world as visually exciting and varied as London. You only have to get on a bus from east to west and you are bombarded with inspiration from architecture to fashion to religion. It’s all there every day, everywhere you look.
You have a very strong color palette with bright colors, neons, and baby pastels with sharp accents. How did this develop?
I studied Fine Art before undertaking a degree in shoe design and was a big fan of oil painting. I was always drawn to mixing colors in unusual ways and found the relationship between color and emotion in art really interesting.
You have had a meteoric rise since you graduated from the Royal College of Art and then served as Nicholas Kirkwood’s assistant designer. Can you describe that trajectory and what challenges you have faced along the way?
Working for Nicholas for two years lent me a great deal of insight into how the design industry functions. He always had such a distinct vision and approach to shoe design, which is something I admired. His advice has always been the same: to keep evolving and keep things fresh. He too came from an art background, so we have that in common. Nicholas was openly supportive of my own line from the outset, but you have to have the drive and dedication to live up to that support. The industry can forget about people very quickly, and it’s important each season to give them a reason to remember you. There are different challenges every day. When you design, sample, wholesale, manufacture, and ship a product all over the world with a small team, it is inevitable that things can and do go wrong, but you learn to become really good at problem-solving.
Who is the woman you imagine wearing Sophia Webster shoes?
The Sophia Webster girl is confident, independent, and strong-minded, but she likes to have fun and doesn’t take herself too seriously. The shoes are spirited for that girl who loves life. I like to bring out the little girl who likes to dress up in a playful, yet elegant way, whether she is going to brunch or to a black-tie affair.
What's next for you?
I would love to open a flagship store next year and expand into some other lines, such as jewelry and housewares.
