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It's hard to get out of St. Louis when you're St. Louis Magazine. But we know you travel. Even with Lambert hubless and Homeland Security doing virtual laparascopies, you travel. So instead of humbly Googling or hitting up travel agents, we sat down with St. Louisans who visit their favorite city many times a year. Here's their best advice.
LONDON
Your tour guide: Steve Woolf, artistic director of The Repertory Theatre of St. Louis
What to Do
Visit the Churchill War Rooms (cwr.iwm.org.uk), where Winston Churchill ran World War II. It’s quite extraordinary.
This sounds totally touristy, and it is: Take a ride on the London Eye (londoneye.com). The Eye (pictured at left) opens at 10 a.m.—go early. It’s very slow, takes about 30 minutes to do a complete rotation, and the views of London are absolutely stunning. It’s really pretty cool.
After that, you can get lost at the National Portrait Gallery (npg.org.uk). Admission is free. And while you’re at Trafalgar Square, make sure to go to a candlelight concert at St. Martin-in-the-Fields (stmartin-in-the-fields.org), the Anglican church on the square’s northeast corner. They’ve redone the crypt.
Or visit the Tate Modern (tate.org.uk), then take the Tate Boat up the Thames to the Tate Britain and back again.
What to Remember
Download the London Tube, Time Out London, and BBC News apps for iPhone or Android phone. If you’re in London for several days, buy an Oyster card for the Tube. For cheap theater tickets, you’ll see signs all over the district, but there are only two official outlets, the tkts (tkts.co.uk) booths on Leicester Square, right in front of the Hampshire Hotel, and at Brent Cross.
Where to Sleep
We take a group every May and stay at The Cavendish Hotel (thecavendish-london.co.uk) in St. James’s, one block off Piccadilly right behind Fortnum & Mason. And I happen to like the Radisson Edwardian Hampshire Hotel (radissonedwardian.com) at Leicester Square. On weekends, it’s a little crazy—lots of young kids around, lots of movie premieres—and it ain’t cheap. But no hotel in London is.
Where to Eat
Make a stop at The Wolseley (thewolseley.com) in Piccadilly. It sparkles at night like a jewel, and it’s just as excellent for breakfast, lunch, or cream tea. Try the cheese soufflé with frites and salad, or the toasted chocolate sandwich. Better make reservations.
J. Sheekey Restaurant (j-sheekey.co.uk) is a really good fish and seafood destination right in the heart of the theater district.
Visit The Ivy (the-ivy.co.uk), in the West End—though book ahead. I’ve never seen anybody famous there, but supposedly…
Try Browns Covent Garden (browns-restaurants.co.uk) on St. Martin’s Lane before or after the theater. It’s loud, noisy, and friendly, and not as expensive or chic as The Wolseley.
Pret a Manger (pret.com) is a good place to stop for a rest; it has reasonable prices and good soups, sandwiches, and pastry.
What to Read on the Plane
The Kill Artist, Daniel Silva’s first Gabriel Allon best-seller, set mainly in London.
PARIS
Your tour guide: Paris expat Bruno L. David, director and owner of Bruno David Gallery
What to Do
Walk to the first floor of the Eiffel Tower (eiffel-tower.com), and admire the view.
Take a tour boat around the Seine River (batobus.com/english), starting at the Quai de Montebello near the Pont au Double and Cathédrale Notre Dame.
Sit in a café by Place de la Contrescarpe.
Visit a museum (that’s not the Louvre!): Musée Rodin (musee-rodin.fr), Centre Pompidou (centrepompidou.fr), Fondation Cartier (fondation.cartier.com), Jeu de Paume (jeudepaume.org), Musée de l’Orangerie (www.musee-orangerie.fr), or Musée d’Orsay (musee-orsay.fr).
Rest and absorb Paris at Carrefour de l’Odéon, Pont Neuf, Place Dauphine, Jardin du Luxembourg (left), or Jardin des Plantes.
What to Remember
The first three booklets to buy when you arrive: Pariscope (www.pariscope.fr), which comes out on Wednesdays and lists museums, galleries, restaurants, plays, and music; a Métro schedule (ratp.fr/en), free at the ticket booth; and Plan de Paris par Arrondissement, a little red book with a map of each arrondissement, very useful when walking neighborhoods. Apps to get include Metro Paris Subway and Paris: Travel Guide–Time Out for iPhone and Paris Metro and Paris City Map for Android. And be sure to bookmark Time Out Paris (timeout.com/paris), or search for Paris on 360 Cities (360cities.net) to find photos of locations you’re seeking.
Where to Sleep
The best way to find a good hotel in Paris is to go online to yelp.com/paris and search for hotels by arrondissement. My suggestion is to never stay at the same hotel. Look near the Jardin des Plantes, near Rue Monge in the 5th Arrondissement—it’s near the
center, but not too close.
Where to Eat
Try Les Éditeurs (lesediteurs.fr), a café that’s also a bibliothèque (library), cocktail lounge, and tearoom. It’s in the Saint-Germain-des-Prés district, known for its writers and intellectuals.
Au Chien Qui Fume (auchienquifume.com)—literally “The Smoking Dog”—was founded in 1740, and it’s known for its traditional hospitality—as well as its oysters, foie gras, smoked salmon, and wines.
Au Passage is a modern wine bar you won’t stumble upon by chance; it’s at 1 Passage Saint-Sébastien, down a long, narrow alleyway that feels as medieval as its namesake. The chalkboard menu includes rillettes, saucisse, and other small plates.
Le Bar du Marché, on the corner of Rue de Seine and Rue de Buci, is a good place to sit down and watch Paris walk past.
Au Moulin Vert (aumoulinvert.com) is a charming mill in Montparnasse that was turned into a tavern in 1848—and later visited by both George Sand and Victor Hugo.
What to Read on the Plane
Paula McLain’s The Paris Wife, New Yorker writer Adam Gopnik’s Paris to the Moon, or editor Penelope Rowlands’ Paris Was Ours.
VIENNA
Your tour guide: Grant Chapman, Webster University's director of international programs and its Vienna campus
What to Do
You must go either to the Hofburg Palace (www.hofburg-wien.at/en) in the heart of Vienna or the Schönbrunn Palace (www.schoenbrunn.at/en) just on the outskirts.
You must also go to the Vienna State Opera House (wiener-staatsoper.at) or Vienna Concert Hall (musikverein.at).
Don’t forget to see St. Stephen’s Cathedral (stephansdom.at), founded in 1137. And if you go in late November or December, make time to visit the outdoor Christmas markets (christkindlmarkt.at).
What to Remember
The U-Bahn is reliable, inexpensive public transportation. Also, you can go to the opera and stand in line for standing-room tickets on the night of the performance for a few euros each—definitely a bargain if you’re OK with standing!
Where to Sleep
For its location, close to the Stephansplatz at the center of Vienna, the Hotel Kaiserin Elisabeth (kaiserinelisabeth.at) cannot be beat. It’s a charming four-star hotel with unique rooms.
The home of the Sachertorte, the famous Viennese chocolate cake, is the Hotel Sacher Vienna (sacher.com), a five-star hotel near the opera house. Enjoy the chocolate shampoo and conditioner.
Where to Eat
Café Central (palaisevents.at/cafecentral.html) is a famous Viennese coffee house and restaurant, a meeting place of Viennese intellectuals since 1876. Any Heuriger restaurant is a place that sells and pours local wine, traditionally from its own vineyards or vine-yards associated with the restaurant. And yes, you must try the schnitzel.
What to Read on the Plane
Inexplicably, many novels that have a setting in Vienna are dark and mostly tragedies—so I haven’t read them! If you have an appetite for that sort of thing, try The Third Man by Graham Greene or Night Work by Thomas Glavinic.
ISTANBUL
Your tour guide: Istanbul expat Aydin Danaci, executive director of Niagara Foundation-Missouri
What to Do
As you may know, Istanbul is the only city in the world that is located on two continents, Asia and Europe. The Bosphorus Strait divides the city into two parts and connects the Marmara Sea to the Black Sea. So you have to start with a boat tour of the Bosphorus.
Now, visit the Old City: Hagia Sophia, Topkapi Palace (topkapipalace.com), the Blue Mosque (left), and the Basilica Cistern, the largest in the city.
Next, go to Taksim (Istiklal Street), one of the major leisure districts, famous for its collection of restaurants, shops, and hotels.
For a hamam (a sauna, followed by a dip in cold water and a vigorous massage), you must go to a Turkish bathhouse. My favorite is Çemberlitas Hamami (cemberlitashamami.com), built by Mimar Sinan in 1584.
For the best views, climb Camlica Hill, the highest vantage point in Istanbul.
What to Remember
Public transportation has improved greatly, so buy an Istanbul Card, which you can use for the ferry, bus, train, light train, subway, etc.
In the museums, use the audio guide; it’s cheap and one of the best ways to learn things on your own. And if you want to buy handmade products—tiles, ceramics, rugs, carpets, and glassware are all excellent—ask at least three shops first, then bargain.
Where to Sleep
The Çiragan Palace Kempinski (kempinski.com/istanbul), an old palace located by the Bosphorus, is one of the best hotels in Istanbul—and one of the most expensive. Some of the richest people in the world host their weddings there.
Blue House Hotel (bluehouse.com.tr/english) is a boutique hotel in the old city, near Hagia Sophia. Its terrace has one of the best views at night.
The Ramada Istanbul Old City (ramadaistanbul.com), centrally located, has easy access to public transportation.
Where to Eat
Go to Haci Abdullah Lokantasi (haciabdullah.com.tr), one of the oldest restaurants in Istanbul. Sample Ottoman food and drink komposto—Haci Abdullah’s is the best. Sultanahmet Koftesi (sultanahmetkoftesi.com) is one of Istanbul’s best-known sellers of kofte, similar to hamburger, made with ground meat, onion, and bread.
What to Read on the Plane
Go for Crescent & Star, by Stephen Kinzer; Istanbul: Memories and the City, by Orhan Pamuk; or The Forty Rules of Love: A Novel of Rumi, by Elif Shafak.
ATHENS
Your tour guide: Athens expat Michael Cosmopoulos, professor of archaeology at the University of Missouri-St. Louis
What to Do
Visit the Acropolis, of course, and take your time going through its new museum (www.theacropolismuseum.gr).
Take a walk in the historic neighborhood of Plaka, with its colorful stores.
Take the tram from Syntagma Square to Phaliro and Glyfada—both are on the beautiful south coastline of Athens, lined with palm trees, parks, and walking paths. A great beach is Yabanaki in Glyfada. This is a good half-day trip from downtown Athens.
What to Remember
We usually fly through Toronto, nonstop on Air Canada in the summer or on Air Transat; another alternative is Continental Airlines nonstop via Newark. (For apps, try Athens “At a Glance” City Guide for iPhone for $4.99.)
Where to Sleep
Hotel Delice (delice.gr) has both furnished rooms and apartments, plus a great location in downtown Athens. For a more economical alternative, there’s the Hotel Myrto (hotelmyrto.gr), near Syntagma Square and within walking distance of the Acropolis and the main sites.
Where to Eat
Sholarhio (sholarhio.gr) is on Anafiotika Street, at the foot of the Acropolis. A waiter will bring a huge platter, filled with 20 or so Greek dishes—moussaka, matoula papadopoulas, Granny Marditsa’s famous meatballs, Sholarhio-style octopus, herring soup—from which you may choose.
Archeon Geyseis (archeon.gr)—translating to “ancients’ tastes”—serves ancient Greek recipes. The menu’s full of fresh, simple ingredients: black olives and feta cheese, lettuces, nuts, pomegranates, seafood, pork, figs, and honey. As you dine, you’ll smell aromatic herbs and hear ancient Greek music. It’s great fun, great food, and a wonderful experience.
What to Read on the Plane
I love John Hale’s Lords of the Sea: The Epic Story of the Athenian Navy and the Birth of Democracy.
BERLIN
Your tour guide: Former SLM editor Stephen Schenkenberg, who lived in Berlin for a year when his wife, Tamara, received a Fulbright grant
What to Do
The Tiergarten is a beautiful park in the center of Berlin, at the foot of the Brandenburg Gate. The electors of Brandenburg used it as their hunting grounds. On the west side of the park, there’s a picturesque lake, the Neuer See, and a café with paddle boats; on the east side is the Reichstag building (left), home to the German parliament. On the southeast side is the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe, designed by architect Peter Eisenman, which is totally unique and very moving.
There are too many museums to rate, but for a local connection, visit the Neues Museum (neues-museum.de). The architect of its renovation was David Chipperfield, who’s now designing the Saint Louis Art Museum’s expansion.
A cool gallery—and a showcase for photography—is C/O Berlin (co-berlin.info), housed in an old Royal Post Office building, with terrific exhibitions and retrospectives.
Worth leaving the center of Berlin: Frederick the Great’s summer residence, Sanssouci, in Potsdam, and Wannsee, a large lake with a sandy beach. Settle in for a 30- to 45-minute subway ride.
What to Remember
Go to fahrinfo-berlin.de to download underground subway and train maps. Use bab.la (a translation app for multiple languages, with a full dictionary that’s free). And buy the Smart Maps–Berlin app for iPhone—it costs $2.99 and is worth far more!
Where to Sleep
Sankt Oberholz (sanktoberholz.de) is located at a very cool intersection, and the café’s great for people-watching.
Casa Camper Berlin (casacamper.com/berlin), in what was once East Berlin, has a high-design, arty aesthetic. (And the hotel’s restaurant, Tentempié, is open around the clock.)
Alternately, rent a flat through Airbnb (airbnb.com) and pretend to be a Berliner.
Where to Eat
Renger-Patzsch (renger-patzsch.com/en) serves French bistro fare with a regional German twist in a simple, comfortable place, named for a pioneer of landscape photography.
For brunch, you can’t go wrong with Café Anna Blume (cafe-anna-blume.de) in Prenzlauer Berg. Show up early, or expect to wait! Brunch is a big deal in Berlin.
For dessert, there’s Fassbender & Rausch Chocolatiers am Gendarmenmarkt (fassbender-rausch.com), with legendary handcrafted chocolates and tartlets. Look for the large chocolate replica of the Brandenburg Gate in the shop window.
Go to the original location of Hasir (hasir.de/eng) in Kreuzberg for authentic Turkish food in a Turkish neighborhood.
Konnopke’s Imbiß (konnopke-imbiss.de) is the most famous currywurst stand in Berlin. Currywurst is a Berlin street food, usually eaten with fries while standing at a table, using little plastic spears, and drinking a cold beer (no matter the time, no matter the temperature).
What to Read on the Plane
Pick up March Violets, first in the Berlin noir series by Philip Kerr (it’s lighthearted—not deep, but fun); The Berlin Stories by Christopher Isherwood; or What I Saw: Reports from Berlin 1920–1933 by Joseph Roth.
