Roberto’s Trattoria
145 Concord Plaza
South County
314-842-9998
Lunch Tue–Fri, dinner Tue–Sat
Average Main Course: $23
Dress: There’s no pretension here; dress accordingly.
Reservations: Regulars might not need them,
but you might.
Chef: Roberto Zanti
Roberto Zanti thought he was on to a good thing when he moved his South County trattoria—also named Roberto’s—a bit farther west. In five years, he’s kept many of the regulars and attracted new ones with his renditions of traditional Italian food in comfortable surroundings. The new digs, larger than they appear from outside, are tucked into the corner of a strip mall. Across the street, a movie complex lures the dinner-and-a-movie crowd.
We’re always happy to begin with the calamari, a generous serving with a crisp breading that’s remarkably lemony. It’s so tasty that the tomato sauce served alongside is largely unnecessary. Spiedini made with eggplant? Sure, especially when the slice of eggplant is stuffed with a beef-and-spinach combination and sauced with a rich, Bolognese-style tomato sauce, chunky with meat and a dark coral pink from the inclusion of cream—a touch found in some traditional recipes. The combination makes the whole harmoniously greater than the sum of its parts.
Veal Marsala benefits from shiitake mushrooms, which are not particularly Italian, but very flavorful. A few cubes of diced tomato and a little onion chime in on the sauce, which is less sweet than some dishes of the same name. It wasn’t quite as tender as we’d like, but it was nicely flavored. A side of sautéed spinach, heightened by a generous addition of finely chopped garlic, was a delight-
ful companion.
Zanti makes his cannelloni with crepes, rather than pasta. Actually, the tissue paper–thin crespelli, to use the proper Italian word, are an authentic variation of the dish. (We suspect they’re easier to handle, too.) They’re thin indeed, and very tender, despite a double layer with a filling that we think is veal-based and smoother than it was in the past. (Recipes in restaurants evolve, just as they do at home.) It’s served with a chunky tomato sauce, thick and slightly sweet from the tomatoes.
On the dessert side, the old wins out over the new. Panna cotta, served in a shallow bowl, wears a spiral of raspberry purée. But Roberto’s version is even blander than the dish usually is and needs a little punch to bring it up to speed. That old St. Louis favorite, the cannoli, was a hit, though. Crisp to the max, it’s filled with ricotta that’s whipped to a cheesecake-like texture, lightly sweetened, and studded with bits of chocolate.
The many regulars often are greeted by veteran staffers who inquire about family members and say things like, “Not the ravioli tonight?” There’s a large bar, but given St. Louis’ dining preferences, we’re sure the restaurant’s large parking lot is equally good for business.
The Bottom Line: Solid, predictable Italian fare—and there’s nothing wrong with that.
By Joe and Ann Pollack
