The fashion industry is in a constant state of reinvention, which is why a new season’s focus is often the complete opposite of its predecessor. It’s daunting when you realize that the collections available to the fashion consumer today number in the thousands. What trend will captivate you this spring? Which designer will have the honor of your purchase?
To help answer these questions, I’ll focus on the spring creations of five prominent designers. These collections will take you on a journey through the cultures of India, Asia and Greece, as well as into the biker realm, with each trend reinvented and primed for sun, fun and sensuality.
Etro. Strength in print mixes is an undeniable mission statement of this fashion house. Veronica Etro has fortified the vision of her father, Gimmo, with remarkable design work and color combinations. Her spring collection mingles the excitement of the ’70s with the grace of India. Her runway show was peppered with blouson tops, peasant skirts embellished with coins and macramé trim on a number of separates in an explosion of color. The 31-year-old designer has added ruffles and tiers to her fling with the ’70s and selected pigments of orange and lime to add to the mix. Look for the collection at Mister Guy and Neiman Marcus.
John Galliano for Dior. This designer makes an impressive statement each season that, while fun to see, is often not wearer-friendly. That quibble aside, it’s obvious Galliano’s themes and color choices have the fashion world in a trance. What would happen if a geisha fell in love with C.C. Rider? The outcome of such a turbulent relationship is captured in his show. With traditional delicate prints juxtaposed against a backdrop of chrome and leather, Galliano tells the hypothetical story of “When Mai Ling met Dirk.”
Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel. An overview of any season’s trend would not be complete without the incredible Karl. His spring ’05 collection for the House of Chanel gushes with creativity. Top models sauntered down the runway in a fusion of the roaring ’20s and gypsy-influenced separates. This ready-to-wear collection is a perennial trend-setter, with many design labels following the Chanel directive. Watch for jeweled flat sandals, belted chemise silhouettes and more macramé-styled lace. And yes, those spectacular constructed jackets overflowing with accessories are still making the critics rave. Chanel ready-to-wear is available locally at Saks Fifth Avenue.
Michael Kors. The simplicity of dressing with a luxurious edge is the cornerstone of this label, but in an effort to capture an all-American leisure look, big name retailers seem to be saturated with similar coordinates from this designer’s manufacturing licensee. Those garments, available locally, pale in comparison to the sexy, worldly, opulent side of his ladies couture collection. Spring ’05 is a tribute to the resorts of Greece, embracing the charm of Mykonos and Santorini. Beginning with white and cornflower blue, Kors has added turquoise, citrine and coral to separates such as cropped trousers, bikini halters and low-cut chiffon blouses. Grecian-patterned dresses, both long and short, accented with rich gold accessories mesmerized the fashion police attending Kors’ show.
Narciso Rodriguez. This collection of magnificent clothing always stands out, with trademark form-fitting garments that capture a respectful sensuality most women crave. Unfortunately, it doesn’t work well for the average American sized 12 to 14. Nonetheless, conceptually, this attitude in dressing commands attention. This season, the 43-year-old Cuban-American has given the girls what they want with fitted bodices, fluid skirts in many lengths and laser-bright colors mixed with white. He also reintroduces the empire waistline, first introduced centuries ago on Josephine Bonaparte. You can bet copycat designers like ABS and Laundry will roll out their versions of Narciso Rodriguez’s collection at your favorite shopping haunts.
Good luck this season, ladies. Try not to look so fixed up, and oppose the Birkenstock nation (unless you’re having a difficult pregnancy). Keep the fashion faith and remember, less is more.
