Should you find yourself over the river, through the woods, and with a hankering for some chicken Modiga, fear not. The influence of St. Louis Italian-style cooking has spread far and wide, paisan.
1. Agostino’s Restaurant
“Mama” Rosa Gabriele, the matriarch of arguably the most storied family in St. Louis’ Italian restaurant history, not only oversees her family’s operations at Agostino’s in Fairview Heights, Ill., but also continues to bake bread and do prep work. The younger generations of the Gabriele family need only to maintain the high standards of their elders, exemplified by timeless classics like penne alla Norma, agnolotti ripieno di aragosta (lobster-stuffed ravioli), and Linguinette Maremonte (a dish that Rosa’s late husband, Agostino, created in 1965). 130 Ludwig, Fairview Heights, Ill., 618-394-1800, agostinoscatering.com.
2. Bella Milano
Bella Milano serves St. Louis Italian-style dishes and calls itself a “fine casual” contemporary Italian restaurant. When it comes to deals around the area, the four-person Family Feast here is a major draw: Originally a Sunday-night special, the $29.95 meal is now offered for takeout seven nights a week. And now, after 10 successful years, Bella Milano’s menu was recently “refreshed.” Does that mean the restaurant might swap out the Provel cheese on that famous chicken Milano? Unlikely. 1063 S. Route 157, Edwardsville, Ill., 618-659-2100; 455 Regency Park, O’Fallon, Ill., 618-624-0700; bellamilanos.com.
3. Erio’s Ristorante
Love pizza but want a change from our city’s namesake style? Head west to discover what residents of St. Peters already know. When it comes to New York–style pie—the crisp yet foldable crust supporting layers of sweet, herbal tomato sauce and tangy, stringy mozzarella—Erio’s is baking up the real deal. 951 Jungermann, St. Peters, 636-928-0112, eriosristorante.com.
4. Mungo’s
Would we drive to Fairview Heights, Ill., just to eat a salad? Normally, no, but in the case of the house salad at Mungo’s, perhaps. After years of debating what makes it so special, we’ve decided it’s the combination of sweet, vinegary Italian dressing and salty prosciutto—or maybe the chubby nubbins of scallion. (Or could it be the Provel?) This is what all house salads should become: a signature item. 525 Lincoln Highway, Fairview Heights, Ill., 618-632-6864, mungositalianeatery.com.
5. T. Arcobasso’s
Play word association with the name “Arcobasso,” and the response you get could be either “St. Louis restaurant” or “salad dressing—really good salad dressing.” You get the best of both at T. Arcobasso’s in Weldon Spring, where owner Toni Arcobasso knows the history of both. The deluxe salad alone constitutes a fine dinner, as does the chicken Christina that’s served with a side salad tossed in that legendary dressing. When locals think “creamy Italian,” they’re probably thinking Arcobasso’s. 1057 Wolfrum, Weldon Spring, 636-300-4680, tarcobassos.com.
