By Alexi Zentner
Photograph by Katherine Bish
What most people notice about India Palace is that it’s a little hard to get to, located at the top of a dingy Howard Johnson with views of airplanes taking off and landing at Lambert Field. That’s a shame, because sometimes the disconnect between the suspect location and the nicely appointed restaurant can distract from the food. And the food here is good. While the staff can have an occasional off night, when it’s on, it produces the best Indian in town. Particularly impressive is the palak paneer—spinach with cheese, a dish that is not terribly complicated but is difficult to lift from decent to sublime. India Palace’s palak paneer is creamy with a delicate hint of sweetness, yet still maintains its savory essence. It’s just one of the dishes that make it worth the trip.
4534 N. Lindbergh, 314-731-3333, open daily 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. and 5:30-10 p.m.
