New restaurants almost always experience “growing pains,” and the now 9-month-old ~scape did not escape the malady. With price points at the “upper middle class” level, expectations run high and inconsistencies better run low.
By hiring Chef Eric Kelly, the Vasily Alexeyev of Levy Restaurants, ~scape is posturing to become the CWE’s quintessential “bistro,” a door left wide open by the passing of legendary Balaban’s. In April, Kelly began the tweaking, from menu design to the water service. His ideas are insightful and few chefs are as talented…but can he put the bloom back on the rose? SLM recently got a peek at his vision. Our conclusion? A visit to ~scape’s “streetscape patio” is now at the top of our summer “to do” list.
There’s so much going on at ~scape … any particular place you want to start?
Yes. Some “this just in” news. As of May 1, the partnerships here at ~scape [and sister restaurant, crêpes: etc] between Levy Restaurants and the Koplar camp are going their separate ways.
Who wanted the split, Levy or Koplar?
Koplar. Ted and Larry [Levy] are old friends. They shook hands and that was it.
~scape is now free to fly.
Hmm. So which way are you going? Is this interview over?
No. I just moved here. I’m no longer with Levy. They do a wonderful job in their market [Chicago], but the corporate monster did ~scape more harm than good. We feel an owner-operated, local place will be freer to adapt. “Corporate-ness” was holding us back.
In what way?
Corporate directives distract from a restaurant’s real mission. As a “local” chef, you can be in the dining room doing table touches, getting to know the customers—not overwhelmed with spread sheets, spread sheets, spread sheets.
Do most chefs want to mingle?
I’m wanted to get back to the roots of cooking and be that type of chef. For six years, 330 days a year I went from one restaurant to another. Now I live next door at the Chase, so now my commute is short—and vertical.
That’s handy … or not. You’re always within reach. Different than being on the road.
I must say that, corporate-ness notwithstanding, working for Levy was the opportunity of a lifetime…the most desirable chef position in the country. All of Levy’s brands were different, I was exposed to great partner/chefs, Tony Mantuano at Spiaggia, Missy Robbins [Spiaggia], Dominique Tougne [Bistro 110] … I was truly privileged.
How much input did you have originally at ~scape? Didn’t you write the original menu?
Yes, and that was good and bad. We started the menu tasting two years ago and made the mistake of putting a chef who was not involved in the process in charge of it.
Yeah, but that happens all the time.
This is no cookie cutter menu—everything is made from scratch, so the chef that wrote the menu should be on the property. That was the biggest disconnect. You need that emotional connection. I take the responsibility for this, and that’s part of why I’m here.
Another chef interpreted your original intent.
Precisely. It veered off what it should have been.
Does St. Louis has the same taste profile as Chicago?
No, they’re different. St. Louis has more traditional taste preferences, and therefore it’s more difficult to challenge.
Traditional. Meaning “meat and potatoes?”
St. Louisans like their meat and potatoes a certain way … they need to come with that salad from a particular steakhouse. That’s the challenge. There’s some … courting … involved. We need to get to know each other. I’ve made adjustments but yet want to introduce St. Louisans to what I have experienced in my travels.
Give me an example.
I took a bistro trend and adapted it to what I feel are St Louis tastes: I made sliders using corned beef and potato pancakes. I thought St. Louis would take to Reuben sliders, and they have. For some reason, a big demographic here loves potato pancakes.
Since you’re a bistro, what’s your take on frites?
They need to be medium-size to hold the heat. We salt and pepper them, cook them in trans fat–free oil and finish with some white truffle oil and a spray of parm and fresh herbs.
What’s different on the entrée side?
The menu is no longer a stiff, heavy tri-fold. It’s now a single sheet of card stock, very approachable and easily updatable. We have a plate du jour every night, from chicken and dumplings to meatloaf to a chicken and morel crepe—I call it a French pot pie.
Sounds very homey.
Very much so. We made the mistake initially of being too formal, too fancy. It’s definitely more a down home bistro.
What’s your favorite item on the menu?
My least favorite is a grilled item, only because that doesn’t take any talent. When you can take a secondary cut of meat—like a short rib—and braise it slowly and create a great braising liquid that becomes an integral sauce, you can taste the effort that went into it. I respect and admire any old-world cooking technique—if it’s done right.
Maryland Plaza is the perfect spot for a bistro. Tell us about the patio out back.
It’s still a secret because it’s hidden. Guests fill up our street tables, unaware of the “streetscape patio” in back. By June 1, the outdoor bar on that patio, bridging two dining areas, will be complete. Plus there will be outdoor soft seating. The secret patio will be a secret no more.
Sounds perfect to me.
It can be used for private dining, wine dinners, we’ll do a wedding … It can be tented, good for late night. We’re going to run a movie on the wall and do Dinner and a Movie.
And it’s not beastly hot. It gets limited sun.
Yeah, from 12:00 to 12:05 you get sun.
Another secret is the room upstairs.
I can sum up The Fountain Room in two words: group sales. The separate exhibition kitchen allows us to do restaurant-quality food in a group environment. Group dinners are often restricted. Ours can be elaborate. It allows chef/guest interaction right at the burners. People love seeing technique up close.
The venue’s perfect for cooking classes.
Ted and I are working on securing the Celebrity Chef Series, several high-profile chefs offering cooking classes—call it “Cooking with the Stars.”
That glassed-in basement is a hidden gem as well. What’s the plan there?
Right now it’s private parties, rehearsal dinners. It can bail the patio out when it rains—that’s huge. It may become a true wine bar: lounge-esque and sexy. The sound system allows for different music all over so we can go many different ways with it.
Any events coming up?
In addition to the Celebrity Chefs, we’ll be doing cooking classes driven by the season. In June, we’ll kick it off with “The Thrill of The Grill.” Later, I am going to host “The Masters of the Grill” and invite the top local chefs onto Maryland Plaza and go crazy with about 15 grills. The best chefs will compete with their best grilled item.
Can I buy my tickets now?
Sure. Front row—right next to a grill.
