The new slogan at Goody Goody Diner (5900 Natural Bridge, 314-383-3333, goodygoodydiner.com) could be “More Than Just Chicken & Waffles!” The local institution has been feeding St. Louisans for more than 60 years, beginning when the Katz Drug Store down the street had its giant revolving cat sign. Food & Wine and Travel + Leisure have named it one of America’s best diners, and a new generation has discovered the chicken and waffles. But we think the real strength of its menu is the near-endless down-home breakfast options.
The crowd in the immaculate, buzzing room reminds us of the glory days of Laclede Town, with folks of all incomes and races enjoying themselves. There’s often a line to be seated. Most of the customers are local, but not all. When Al Gore stopped by during the 2000 presidential campaign, foot traffic zoomed. And national attention grew when former St. Louis Post-Dispatch food editor Judy Evans brought in Jane and Michael Stern of the Roadfood books and website.
For decades, this has been a traditional stop for police officers. Politicians, too, have made it a regular hangout. The patrons on any given day might include University of Missouri–St. Louis staffers or babes in the woods who’ve never tried a slinger (much less the Wilbur, Goody’s house version).
After 60 years at the restaurant, longtime owner Richard Connelly recently sold the diner. But the new owners assure the faithful that this institution is here to stay, with the possibility of expanding into other neighborhoods.