A-List 2010

St. Louis Magazine's annual tribute to the best this city has to offer

Photograph courtesy of Chandler Hill Vineyards

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The editors at St. Louis Magazine have been working year-round to bring you our seventh annual A-list issue. We keep our eyes open constantly to discover the best of St. Louis and provide what information we think would mean the most to our readers, whether the subject is food to sports to media to kids' activities. This year, we've added a new dimension to our A-list: We gave our readers the chance to make their own picks. Earlier this year, we posted an online voting ballot and received responses from more than 1,500 dedicated readers. We took the Readers' Picks a step further online and posted not just the top picks—the print issue has these—but the top five picks for each voting category. Read on, and find out what we, and our readers, think makes this city great.

Food

Burger
Franco
It’s an American staple, so we’re not sure why it took a French restaurant to produce such a juicy patty of perfection. Mais de rien! A soft Companion bun grips this beauty like a Rawlings. And the fries? Arguably the best in the Central Division.
1535 S. Eighth, 314-436-2500, eatatfranco.com

Veggie Burger
SweetArt
There’s no faux-meat substitution happening here: The vegetables and lentils are easily identifiable. This is a true veggie burger, folks, and represents everything vegetarian food has the potential to be, but rarely is.
2203 S. 39th, 314-771-4278, sweetartstl.com

Upscale Mexican
Milagro Modern Mexican
What do you get when you drop the chalupa and eradicate all-American influences from south-of-the-border sustenance? You get quesadillas flavored with a traditionally sautéed corn fungus (yes, you read that right) called huitlacoche. You get tacos served taqueria-style, and you get little side touches like tostaditas wrapped in warm banana leaves to accompany your first-rate ceviche. What you won’t get: Corona, for starters. The amigos behind the CWE’s Tortillaria have put forth another worthy outpost for Mexican fare that tastes like it actually comes from Mexico.
20 Allen, 314-962-4300, milagromodernmexican.com

Restaurant to Brag About
Winslow’s Home
A travel-writing friend-in-law recently called us, wondering what we’d include on a 36-hour, whirlwind-weekend itinerary through the Lou. “Dude, you gotta go to Winslow’s Home,” we blurted. (“Dude” being an official title at The New York Times, we’ve heard… Oh, did we mention this was The New York Times asking?) Like a City Museum for foodies, this circa-2006 general store/farm-to-table breakfast-and-lunch counter hyper-tickles all five senses, but its sandwiches and small-batch baked goods are what earn its cash-for-your-miles status among gourmands far and wide.
7213 Delmar, 314-725-7559, winslowshome.com

Pastrami
Lester’s Sports Bar & Grill
“Go big or go home,” they say in sports. Lester Miller went big with his eponymous eatery’s menu by going far from home, dispatching chef Brad Isaak to the East Coast to receive a crash course in meat-smoking and brining from a former Carnegie Deli owner. The resultant pastrami (not to mention corned beef, brisket, and smoked turkey breast) is so stellar, it could almost make a Redbirds fan bleed Yankee blue. (OK, we said almost.)
9906 Clayton, 314-994-0055; 14810 Clayton, 636-230-0055; lestersrestaurant.com

Pasta Dish
Vermicelli, Mangia Italiano
Happiness is Mangia’s freshly served, made-by-them pastas; torture is trying to whittle down which one to order at South Grand’s most improved restaurant. While ribbons of scallop-edged pappardelle leave us weak-kneed (fun fact: pappardelle’s root verb, pappare, means “to gobble up”), it usually sits under a hunk of protein. Mangia’s Vermicelli G.O.C. is blessedly benign, its rustic, surprisingly intricate tones accentuated by garlic, olive oil, and (grated Parmesan) cheese. G.O.C. is only one letter different from...?
3145 S. Grand, 314-664-8585, dineatmangia.com

Chopstickable Dish
Go Deung Uh, Han Gook Kwan Korean Restaurant
You can’t pronounce it, but just point to the go deung uh on the menu at Han Gook Kwan. The panchan, the inevitable side dishes, will arrive first: fiery kimchi; fat, salty noodles; crunchy threads of sesame-flavored seaweed. Then the fish itself: a pair of golden-brown flanks of mackerel, hot and deliciously oily and almost sweet, lightly dusted with flour and deep-fried. Every bite is exquisite. This is easily among the top 10 dishes in St. Louis.
1261 Castillon Arcade Plaza, 314-878-8893

Egg Dish
Northwest Coffee Company
At the original Clayton outpost of Northwest Coffee (by press time, likely at the Central West End location as well), “Barista Eggs” are concocted by cracking a pair of free-rangers from Dry Dock Farms into a little steel pitcher (the kind usually used for frothing milk), then submitting them to a half-minute blast of steam from an espresso machine. Light and fluffy as clouds, they can be topped with cheese and steamed veggies, too. Simple, and simply marvelous.
8401 Maryland, 314-725-8055, northwestcoffee.com

Private Dining Room
SleeK
You’re not far from the Lumière Place casino, yet you’re miles away; you’re not far from the other guests, but surrounded by curved glass walls and bolts of gauzy curtains, you might as well be; and you’re not at all far from bottles of vintage red wine—right next to them, in fact. How convenient.
999 N. Second, 314-881-7595, hubertkeller.com

Destination Restaurant
Stone Soup Cottage
Stone Soup Cottage is not unlike a Maine lobster…such decadent ambrosia is not for everyday consumption, but rather an indulgence to be cherished and savored. And although the restaurant’s open only four nights a week, owners Carl and Nancy McConnell will happily accommodate a special party on an off night, even if it’s a party of two. A renovated farmhouse with only 25 seats, Stone Soup is the epitome of rustic elegance and has quickly become our hands-down favorite when the memory of the dinner has to live up to the memory of the occasion.
5525 Oak, Cottleville, 636-244-2233, stonesoupcottage.com

Cookie
Ultimate Chocolate Chip Cookie, Zettie’s Confections
Cookie perfection is hard to come by: oven-fresh with a crispy edge, chewy center, and perfect balance. But we found one with our favorite ingredients—a mix of white and dark chips, plus chunks of buttery toffee—that’s so good you may polish off more than you ever intended, like the time you nailed that entire pint (or was it a quart?) of Vanilla Bean Häagen-Dazs. Wait a minute, we may have just come up with a new pairing…
618-281-9052, zetties.com

Safe Dining Bet
River City Casino
Whether you bet on the ponies or play the slots, no one likes to gamble on dinner. How ironic, then, that several of our city’s best dining bets are inside the new River City Casino. Try any of five riverboat-nuanced dining venues, from a superior buffet (yes, we said that) to burgers and comfort food, the classic (and well-stocked!) 1904 Beerhouse, and Jeff Ruby’s array of winning steaks. We’ll wager you’ll be as pleasantly surprised as we were.
777 River City Casino, 888-578-7289, rivercity.com

Attitude
The Smiling Staff at Yummies
They’re wearing tuxedo shirts in a soul-food joint? And they’re smiling? Makes us wonder what’s in the Kool-Aid they dole out…yes, Yummies serves Kool-Aid, along with smothered chicken, salmon croquettes, and a decadent banana pudding it claims is fat- and sugar-free. Nothing at Yummies is expensive, and all of those smiles are free.
3149 Shenandoah, 314-226-9800, yummiessoulfood.com

Restaurant Dream Team

Chef
Kevin Willmann, Farmhaus
This time last year, we had to trek to Erato on Main in Edwardsville to experience the freshness Willmann brings to the table. And we didn’t complain. This year, Willmann opened Farmhaus, on this side of the river, and we like that even better.
3257 Ivanhoe, 314-647-3800, farmhausrestaurant.com

Bartender
Whitney Fogel, Remy’s Kitchen & Wine Bar
Rare is the female bartender who appeals to both sexes equally—friend to all and intimidator of none. One who could sell sand in the desert, or a glass of red to the guy drinking white; one who’s as sweet as your niece’s smile, and who’s just as glad to see you. But we found her. At Remy’s, in Clayton.
222 S Bemiston, 314-726-5757, allgreatrestaurants.com

Server
Chuck Klipfel, The Piccadilly at Manhattan
He’ll greet you at the door with a welcoming smile, exuding pride and utter confidence. You’ve heard that The Piccadilly at Manhattan was a family operation, and you connect the dots: “You must be the owner.” “No, I’m Chuck,” he beams, “but the owner is here, too.”
7201 Piccadilly, 314-646-0016, thepiccadilly.com

Pastry Chef
Simone Faure, The Ritz-Carlton, St. Louis
The Ritz is ready to bequeath the reigning queen of cakes her very own corner of the gift shop to display and sell her quirky creations, including made-to-order cakes shaped like exclusive purses, designer shoes, and hats. But it’s not all edible fashion. In The Grill, Simone’s classic tiramisu and toasted-apple ravioli are currently in vogue.
100 Carondelet Plaza, 314-863-6300, ritzcarlton.com/en/Properties/StLouis

Owners
Casey and Jeremy Miller, The Mud House
They own a coffee shop, so forgive the name. But talk about a perfect couple: Jeremy bakes the scones and Casey crafts the lattes, right down to amazing examples of latte art. If starting the day with your caricature in your cup doesn’t put a smile on your face, well, Casey can put one there.
2101 Cherokee, 314-776-6599, themudhousestl.com

Innovator
Pi
Ford had his Model T; Pi owner Chris Sommers has his “Pi on the Spot” mobile pizza truck, the latest feather in this restaurateur’s thinking cap. Baskin and Robbins had their 31 flavors; Sommers installed a milkshake bar at his Kirkwood outpost. Frat guys have cold morning-after ’za washed down with a hair-of-the-dog brewski; so does the Central West End Pi on Sundays, with a selection of suds more refined than you’d find in the mini fridge of a Psi Phi’s dorm room. This, epicurean entrepreneurs, is how you put the pi in “empire.” Or for that matter, “epicurean.”
Three locations, restaurantpi.com

Restaurant Concept
Taste by Niche
As you cram your way into this impossibly small Benton Park eatery, you’ll be tempted to ask yourself, “Am I here for the cocktails or the food?” Whether your answer is Ted Kilgore’s impeccably crafted drinks or the still–exotic–for–St. Louis small plates like octopus and tongue, you’ll be correct. There are no wrong answers here.
1831 Sidney, 314-773-7755, nichestlouis.com

Revival
Blue-Plate Special, Farmhaus
Sure, 10 bucks might seem steep for a Blue-Plate Special of bacon-wrapped meatloaf or fried fluke, but these aren’t the ones slopped into a sectional plate by a guy named Mel. No, this 2010 version is lovingly prepared by one of St. Louis’ favorite chefs (See “Restaurant Dream Team”), and includes a salad, side, starch, and tea, which makes it a steal for that $10 bill. “Lunch” at Farmhaus consists of one Blue Plate per day, announced every morning on Twitter. That’s it. And if you don’t like today’s offering, we’ll bet you like tomorrow’s.
3257 Ivanhoe, 314-647-3800, farmhausrestaurant.com

Dining Experience
Dorm-Room Dinner, 33 Wine Shop & Tasting Bar
When Jeff Stettner got the idea to turn his much-loved 33 Wine Shop & Tasting Bar into a once-a-month dining club, even he wouldn’t have guessed it would become the city’s hardest seat to score. But that’s what happens when names like Craft, Nashan, and Gontram agree to create menus using only the cooking tools you’d find in a college dorm room—a hot plate, a microwave, a toaster oven…maybe even Grandma’s old electric griddle.
1913 Park, 314-231-9463, 33wine.com

Romantic Dining
Chez Leon
It ain’t Paris in the spring, but an evening in Clayton has its charms. And Chez Leon says “romance” better than a De Beers commercial. The dark walls, the thick drapery, and the opulent, glittery chandelier—the setting is a mecca of romantic potential. If your relationship doesn’t blossom (or at least bud) over a plate of dangerously glorious foie gras there, Mom was right: Call it quits—you can do better.
7927 Forsyth, 314-361-1589, chezleon.com

Starter
Brandade at Brasserie by Niche
First, they salt the cod in-house, rather than relying on bacalao, so they can control the flavor and texture. Second, they add butter to the mashed potatoes—enough to have basted a Thanksgiving ostrich. Then it’s blended—not a purée, not an emulsion, a combination of both—creating a creamy, smooth bowlful, rich and starchy, fragrant, satisfying. The cod-and-potato brandade at Brasserie is irresistible.
4580 Laclede, 314-454-0600, brasseriebyniche.com

Reason to Cross the River
JFires’ Market Bistro
If you can’t think of one, consider this bistro in Waterloo. It’s an old brick farmhouse, beautifully restored, in a charming setting complete with its own barn and vine-covered patio. The menu leans towards Louisiana, with crawfish étouffée and gumbo, but there’s also splendid, roasted pulled pork; steaks and chicken; wood-fired pizzas; and fresh juices. And always remember—rivers are made for crossing.
725 N. Market, Waterloo, Ill., 618-939-7233, jfires.com

Flatbread
Balaban’s Wine Cellar & Tapas Bar
Forget the fancy-schmancy: Our palate can get overwhelmed by too many tastes or textures. That’s why we’re fans of the spinach flatbread at Balaban’s. It’s simple: the smooth, gooey nuttiness of fontina. The slightly metallic, earthy green of fresh spinach. The sweet, al dente smack of caramelized onions. A white sauce that suggests garlic and cream and sun-drenched Italian afternoons. All of it balanced, in just the right proportions, on a spectacular crackly, crusty flatbread.
1772 Clarkson, 636-449-6700, balabanswine.com

Unusual Ethnic
Al Waha Restaurant and Hookah Lounge
For the thousands who’ve complained that all our city lacks is a good Bedouin restaurant, life’s complete! Sautéed eggplant moussaka, meat kebabs, and hummus are familiar items here. But Bedouin specialties like fried beef dumplings; a pizza-like baked bread topped with chicken and onions; and fish cooked in tomato sauce, garlic, and ginger make for a remarkable adventure. The hookah may be hokey, but don’t miss Bedouin coffee, brewed with cardamom.
3191 S. Grand, 314-664-3940, alwahastl.com